Getting Lost in the Souks! and other Marrakesh, Morocco Warning Or Danger Tips

Kiosk in the Mellah, Marrakesh

My first night in Marrakesh, I'd found my way into Djemma el Fnaa. Aware of warnings that it's easy to get lost, I carefully noted where I was...

After a pleasant evening, I left the square to get a taxi back to my hotel.
Setting off in the direction I thought I'd come from, it wasn't long before I realised I wasn't where I thought I was. I thought if I continued I'd come to a main road or landmark.

It was around midnight, and I was wandering further into the Mellah area (which I realised later when I checked my guide book)

The narrow alleyways were lined with 'hole in the wall' grill houses, workshops etc. Donkey carts passing by forced me to walk close to the walls. In front of me a group of youths suddenly started a fight, as soon as it started, it ended, with 2 boys ending up covered in blood!

I was starting to feel a bit uneasy now, if I turned back, I wasn't entirely sure of my route..luckily a taxi appeared at the road in front, and I got in.

Next to the driver was a woman, who I thought was his wife, but after a drive around the narrow alleyways, we reached a small square where she got out.

My taxi driver had to stop twice to ask directions to my hotel. As you can imagine, I was quite relieved to arrive back at my hotel. The taxi driver got a good tip!

Despite this experience, it didn't deter me from wandering about, or spoil my holiday. Just another of my travel adventures!

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Warnings Or Dangers: Henna 'artists'

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Updated by suvanki

on Apr 14, 2008

Djemma el Fnaa

Of all the 'sales people/entertainers' I encountered in Djemma el Fnaa, I found the women who did henna work to be the most persistent!

On my travels, I've had various henna 'tattoos', and I might have had one done in Marrakesh, but I'd read other VTers pages, who'd recorded problems with prices etc.

I was wandering through the square, minding my own business, when I was accosted by one of these henna artists, who forcibly grabbed me by the arm, and thrust a catalogue of designs in my face.

I tried to tell her I wasn't interested, but she persisted in gripping me harder, then attempting to draw a squiggle on my hand. I managed to brush her aside, and luckily I had a tissue in my pocket to remove the henna paste.

However, I was left with an orange mark on my hand for a couple of days!

My advise is to walk away, with a firm No! Non! or La! -

There will be another potential 'mug' along soon

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Warnings Or Dangers: Snake charmers!

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Updated by suvanki

on Apr 14, 2008

Snake charmer, Djemma el Fnaa

For many years I had a snake phobia, cured partly by a Blue Peter animal expert, who regularly was on the programme, then did lecture tours, which I was sent to, to represent our school at a talk, where I was 'invited' to touch the snake.

After this experience, my fear subsided. In India, I also braved a snake charmers show, to get near to a cobra.

However, this chap in the photograph, descended on me, and proceeded to chat, I hadn't realised he was a snake charmer, until he tried to get me to close my eyes, and hold my hand out!!!!!!!! Luckily I made him show me what was in his hand! I was brave enough to touch it , but refused to hold the snake in my hand, or around my neck.

I paid a few dh for this pic, but not as much as he asked initially. He asked 200dh! I gave him 5dh, as this was all the change I had in my pocket - ( I prefer to wear combat style trousers in Marrakech, with small denomination coins in each pocket, So that I can safely pull out the 'only change I have' )

I give more money to the musicians and singers in the square etc.

Surprised I could hold the camera still enough for a pic!!

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Warnings Or Dangers: Taking Photographs.

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Updated by suvanki

on Apr 17, 2009

Gnaoua musicians 'from a

distance'!!

Marrakesh is a photographers paradise! However, it's not always easy to take the shots that you want-
It's quite a busy place, so you might need to be very patient, to get an uninterrupted view, particularly at the popular sights

Although the locals are used to camera wielding tourists, they're understandably often not happy to be snapped, going about their daily lives, particularly the women. Although as a lone female traveler. I've often been asked to take pics by the local women!

I did find a few occasions, when I was taking a street scene in the medina or mellah, where I thought I'd taken care not to get anyone in the shot, then realised that I'd inadvertantly upset a 'hidden' bystander' Also taking shots where a stall keeper was 'hidden' in the darkness or shadow, behind the stalls display.

An apology, and gesturing at the view I was taking, was usually accepted. I didn't have digital, only old fashioned film, so couldn't show them the pic as proof.

Djemma el Fnaa, is a place to be aware of who/what you're photographing- musicians, such as those in the photo, the watersellers, snake charmers etc are very quick to demand money, if they see (or think they see) you taking a photo. (The brighter their costume, the more likely they are to demand money!!! )

Tip - carry loose change in a separate pocket, if you feel the need to tip these.(They'll ask for some exorbitant amount such as 200dh- I usually had 5 - 10 dh ready, if they protested, I explained it was all I had (with an apologetic shrug and smile!) which they were usually happy to accept.

At night, the musicians and storytellers, who are surrounded by their audience, standing or sitting in a circle etc. are also on the look out for anyone taking photo's, and usually expect a donation.
These aren't here as a tourist attraction - they are continuing an age old tradition of story telling, which usually, only the locals (who outnumber the gathered tourists) will understand.
I personally don't mind tipping these musicians etc, especially if they're as talented as most in Djemma El Fnaa- These performances have been some of the hi lights of my holiday! I spent most nights being invited to sit with one group, while they played.

I've also recorded some of them on MP3, so I've got some long lasting memories of their music and the atmosphere of Djemma el Fnaa.

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Warnings Or Dangers: Guided Tours

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Updated by suvanki

on Apr 14, 2008

Bahia Palace revisited!