Marrakesh Restaurant Tips by suvanki

Restaurant Name: Chez Chegrouni

I visited this place after reading recommendations from VTers. Good for cheap, good basic food.

My first visit, I had a tasty bowl of Harrira soup with bread for 8dh!
The food was lovely, but the service was VERY slow- I thought it was because I was a female on my own, but then realised everyone else was having to wait.

My second visit, I was with a friend I'd met during our tour. We both had tagines, which again were hot tasty filling and cheap. Mine was a chicken tagine with almonds and sultanas-Mmmmmmm!

My 3rd visit I had another tagine plus an avocado juice, which came sweetened.

I'd read on VT and in LP that the quirk of this place was that you wrote your order on the paper napkins, then this was returned as your bill. I'm afraid that I didn't see this happen.

Popular place with locals, Moroccan holiday makers and tourists- the front terrace was always full, so I sat inside - there was a fan overhead. There is an upper terrace too, but I didn't see this part.

Favorite Dish: The Tagines were hot, tasty and cheap- starting at 30dh for vegetable tagine, 50dh for beef or chicken tagines, Delicious bread to mop up the juices.

Avocado juice was a pleasant alternative to orange juice

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Theme: Local
Comparison: less expensive than average
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Address: 4-6 Djemma El Fnaa, Marrakech
Directions: Djemma El Fnaa, with the Bank-Al Maghrib behind you (the fancy building) walk along the right hand side of the square. Pass by the Cafe de France and La Marrakechi and You should see Chez Chagrouni.

Restaurant Name: Cafe Les Negociants

Gueliz is in Ville Nouvelle, the French Quarter.
There are many pavement cafes, ice cream parlours, patisseries.

I quite liked this cafe, to sit in the comfy wicker seats,and watch the world go by, as I planned my day.

The clientele was a mix of tourists, holidaying Moroccans, and locals in traditional dress or westernised attire.

Open 0600 - 23.30hrs daily.

On my 2nd visit to M'kesh, I used this cafe quite a bit as my hotel was nearby. It was still very popular. This time though I was amused to find one of the surliest waiters ever- he looked a bit like Rene from the old TV comedy Allo Allo, in fact it was like watching a comedy as he huffed and puffed, tutted and clicked his tongue at every inconvenience, trying to avoid catching anyones eye who might want to order and sitting down in a chair at every opportunity while the other waiters ran around. (He was like this with everyone, locals included)
I'd spotted a few tables with clear green drinks, but didn't know what it was. I'd asked "Rene" for a menu - his eyes nearly shot out of his head as he shrieked"menu???" at me, before shuffling off to find one, shaking his head and tutting.

I couldn't find anything that might have been the green drink, so I ordered a cafe glace (11dh), to his disdain. Looking in my purse, I only had a 100dh note, which nearly reduced me to a fit of giggles imagining his response.

I'm afraid I waited to make sure that he had to come over to take my money, rather than call one of the others. It was worth it for the charade of his reaction, when he eventually returned and slammed down my change, he turned on his heel (the quickest I'd seen him move) and fled to slump in a chair. I didn't even get a chance to give him his tip!(I left a larger tip than normal, for this memorable encounter)

Favorite Dish: I enjoyed a mint tea, fresh orange juice and a Latte on my visits.

This is an ideal spot for people watching, it's on the corner of Ave Mohammed V, so plenty going on around.

There are hawkers passing through with DVDs, tissues, sunglasses, shirts, rugs etc, but they're approaching the locals as well, not just tourists, so just shake your head and smile, or say Non Merci if You don't want to buy.

I visited at various times of the day and late evening.

Somewhere to sit and linger, not ideal if You're in a hurry.

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Theme: Coffeehouse
Comparison: about average
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Address: 110 Ave Mohammed V, Gueliz, Marrakesh
Directions: Gueliz Area, junction of Ave Mohammed V and Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni

Restaurant Name: Street Vendors

If you can't decipher the menu boards, (Most are in Arabic and/or French) The food is displayed, so just point to what you fancy!

This display is at Aichas Number 1, but other stalls have similar displays, all painstakingly arranged each evening!

(Please see my Djemma el Fnaa Things to do tips - p5 for more information)

Favorite Dish: I enjoyed freshly cooked brochettes, tagines, cous cous, harissa soup, potato cakes, and the sauces with bread to dip in.

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Theme: Local
Comparison: less expensive than average
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Address: Djemma el Fnaa, Marrakesh.

Restaurant Name: Street Vendors- The Souks

While I was walking around with my guide, (who I'd hired for the morning),he stopped at this stall and indicated to the owner, a quantity of the hot roasted lamb, which was carved and wrapped in paper, with a twist of paper holding a mix of cumin and salt. My guide explained we'd share it soon.

He then pointed to another piece of meat, and offered it to me. I asked what it was (I had a pretty good idea! ;-) ) but he just said "it's very good, very special" I was instructed to dip the portion into the cumin/salt mix.

I guessed I was being offered a sheeps testicle!! which my guide confirmed later that it was!

Well, surprisingly it was very tasty!

We then walked to a carpet shop (I had no intention of buying a carpet) where we ate the delicious lamb accompanied by glasses of mint tea while the various carpets were unfurled in front of us.

After we'd eaten the lamb, we left- without buying a carpet!!

Favorite Dish: Roast lamb, hot , tender and delicious!
The cumin/salt mix was a very tasty accompaniment!

I'm now enjoying this at home as an alternative to mint sauce / rosemary and garlic etc! (brings back memories of my holiday!)

Sheeps testicles!! (an unexpected 'treat')- and a great conversation opener/stopper!!!

Was pleased to read/ view on TV, Anthony Bourdains experience of eating this delicacy!

I'm not sure of the cost, my guide paid.

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Theme: Local

Address: The Souk, Marrakesh
Directions: Afraid I'm not sure where this stall was, but wish I could have found it again!
it's somewhere in the Souk!!!

Restaurant Name: Street Vendors

Around Djemma El Fnaa, near the orange juice carts, you'll spot some stalls with copper cauldrens. These contain a local beverage known as hunja.

My curiosity got the better of me one night, and I joined the locals standing around the stalls, drinking glasses of this hot spicy beverage .

At the side of the stall are jars of the spices that make up the drink. Unfortunately I couldn't identify most of them, and no one could tell me what the recipe was (language barrier, not a trade secret!)

Accompanying the hunja, you are given a saucer with scoops of a spicy chocolate cake called tkaout - Mmmmmmm- Drink and cake for about 5dh!! Bargain!

If you're in Marrakesh in Winter, this is a must do, to warm you through!

Favorite Dish: Hunja and cake!!..thats all they sell!

The hunja reminded me a bit of Masala tea that I'd drunk in Kerala, but even hotter!

If anyone knows the recipe, I'd be very grateful to be let in on this secret-- Would be great for a bonfire night party, or to carry in a vaccuum flask on a winter walk!

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Theme: Street Vendor
Comparison: least expensive
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Address: Djemma el Fnaa, Marrakesh
Directions: Near the orange juice sellers

Restaurant Name: La Mamounia (Bar Du Soleil)

I treated myself to afternoon tea here on my birthday.

This 'legendary' hotel was built on the site of an 18th century palace of Sultan Mohammed 111, opening as a hotel in 1923, it gained a reputation as THE place to stay in Marrakesh for the rich and famous of that era. Politicians, film stars and artists have resided here over the years, its most notable guest being Winston Churchill.

The 17 acre gardens surround this de luxe hotel (see my must see tips for more info)
The hotel is open from 1000-1600 for non residents, and is worth a look around. No shorts or other 'unsuitable' attire allowed entrance!

The Bar Soleil is a pleasant place to enjoy a drink or snack. It was just warm enough to sit out and enjoy the late afternoon winter sun, and is quite peaceful.

Favorite Dish: I was intending to have a gin fizz (120 dh) but realised I didn't have enough money on me for a drink and food.

Flag beer was 40dh (I was paying 15dh at my hotel) So I opted for Mint Tea (40dh) and a plate of Moroccan pastries(120dh)

The pastries were nice and the Mint Tea came in a larger pot than I'd been offered previously, but you're paying for the location etc.

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Theme: Other
Comparison: most expensive
Prices: US$11-20  » Currency Converter
Phone: 044 444409
Address: La Mamounia, Ave Houmane el Fetouki
Directions: See my must see tip for directions
Website: www.mamounia.com
Other Contact: fax 044 444660

Restaurant Name: Street Vendors

As I'd wandered around the foodstalls of Djemma el Fnaa, I'd spotted stalls with displays of sheeps heads, complete with teeth!
After my experience of eating a sheeps testicle! (see Lamb take away tip) I was ready to be adventurous, but I would draw the line at eating sheeps eyes!!

After much walking around these stalls, trying to work out how the dishes were served- (the menus were in Arabic) I'd seen saucers of meat pieces, served with a gravy topping, and vats of stews, I felt confident enough to join the locals at one stall. (Following the oft repeated travellers addage- eat where the locals eat for good food!)

Well it was a dining experience!

I pointed to a tagine, which appeared to be meat and preserved lemons. I was handed a large piece of bread and a filled bowl . It was very tasty, if a bit greasy!
As soon as I'd finished, my bowl was taken from me and refilled!

One of the stallholders indicated a piece of meat to my server, which he added to my dish. I wasn't sure if I'd been given a 'special' bit, On finding a piece with lots of tubes, I tried to ask which part of the animal this was.My anatomy lessons failed me!.I'm a Nurse, not a Vet!

I think the man thought I wasn't happy with this piece, and flicked it into a bin!

I enjoyed this dining experience, it was a bit different! I was left to enjoy the meal by myself in the company of local couples, families and single men.

Cheap too! I paid 16dh (£1) for 2 large portions of a hot tagine and bread!

Favorite Dish: The lamb tagine was the only dish I tried. It was hot and tasty, but a bit greasy.

I was partly expecting an upset stomach afterwards, but I was fine. I think all the mint tea I was consuming counteracted any digestive problems!

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Theme: Local
Comparison: less expensive than average
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Address: Djemma el Fnaa, Marrakesh
Directions: I can't remember the number of this stall, there are quite a few of these stalls in Djemma el Fnaa. Probably best to look for a busy stall (quick turnover etc)

Restaurant Name: Le Lounge

For a change from eating in Djemma El Fnaa, I decided to try somewhere in Gueliz, near to my hotel. I had considered trying the legendary Al Fassia, which is very near by, but decided to go there on the last night of my holiday.

This Modern salon / Restaurant caught my eye.

Terraced area outside with 9 tables, plus comfy settees and chairs in outside lounge area. Seating inside too.

Young, Smart, Friendly and Efficient staff. My order was taken quickly, and I didn't have too long a wait for my food, but I didn't feel made to rush at the end of my meal.

Varied menu (Tapas, Tagines, fish, meat etc), plus large wine/cocktail (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) list.

Pleasant relaxed atmosphere,
Mix of clientele dining - local professional looking couples, Families, elderly group of friends.

On a side street off Ave Mohammed V

I returned here on the last night of my holiday, for a night cap

Favorite Dish: I enjoyed my Beef Tagine, it was hot, with plenty of meat, fruit and vegetables. Crusty bread to mop up! (70dh)
Creme Caramel (40dh) Mmm!
Flag beer (25dh)
Gin Mash cocktail (65dh)

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Theme: Eclectic/International
Comparison: about average
Prices: US$11-20  » Currency Converter
Address: Rue de Yougaslavie, Gueliz, Marrakech
Directions: Gueliz
From DEF head up Ave Mohammed V. At Place Abd El Moumen Ben Ali, Cafe Le Negociants is on your R. , cross over Bvd Zerktouni, and Rue de Yugoslavie is in front of you, walk down and Le Lounge is on your R.

Restaurant Name: Street Vendors

Although I'd put this in my custom guide, pre departure, on my first night in Djemma el Fnaa, I'd forgotten about it. I was soon pursuaded to take a seat at one of the food stalls, where I was made to feel quite welcome. I wasn't sure what to order, so just pointed to dishes my fellow diners were eating. I had a pleasant (and cheap) meal of bread, 2 spicy sauce dips, lentil soup, and lamb brochettes with a small salad, all for about 20dh. It wasn't until I was leaving, after my meal, and one of the boys pointed to the sign, so I'd remember where to come back to, that I realised I'd found Aichas!

Favorite Dish: I ate here a few times, and enjoyed all the dishes.
Besides the meal above I also tried vegetable tajine, vegetable cous cous, potato cakes, and small spicy sausages on various visits.

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Theme: Street Vendor
Comparison: less expensive than average
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Address: Aicha Number 1, Djemma el Fnaa
Directions: Towards the edge of the food stalls, opposite a shop that sold belly dancing costumes!

Restaurant Name: Argana

This was my usual spot for enjoying a mint tea or coffee, whilst observing the 'goings on' of Djemma el Fnaa.

I visited early evenings and mid-afternoon.

Good view of the square, but the staff aren't the friendliest! - They're quite strict as to where you should sit!
My first visit I found one of the few seats available and ordered a mint tea, The waiter was quite surly as he pointed out that the area I was in was for diners only.

So my next visit, I sat at the same table where I'd moved to have my mint tea, I was then informed, that I had to have my drink on the next floor up!(at least I found out that the top floor has a toilet, and there was no attendant with outstretched hand- or perhaps I was lucky this time) The ground floor toilet has an attendant, which I wasn't expecting on my first visit, so I had to scramble for loose change.

Favorite Dish: I only called here for drinks- mint tea or coffee.
Meals available, but I didn't see a menu.
Downstairs are pastries and ice creams to take away or eat in.

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Theme: African
Comparison: about average
Prices: less than US$10  » Currency Converter
Address: Djemma el Fnaa