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Zagreb Travel Guide: 1,850 reviews and 4,564 photos
Croatia has a very elegant and sedate capital. The city comprises of two very distinct parts: the medieval upper Zagreb, at the foot of Mount Medvednica, and the more modern lower Zagreb, where all the businesses and shops are located. The other main part of the city is to the south of the river Sava, which strangely runs nowhere near the center, is New Zagreb, an area you'll pass through from the airport, filled with some of the most incredible (or hideous depending on your viewpoint) Brutalist socialist suburban architecture.
Upper Zagreb consists of the twin villages of Gradec and Kaptol. Gradec is high above the city, and offers the best views from the Lotrscak Tower, itself reached from the city's only funicular. Kaptol is almost indistinguishable from Gradec, as the old part of the city stretches across the lower hills of Mount Medvednica. You can tell when you've entered Kaptol, however, because you'll be standing under the distinctive twin towers of the Cathedral.
If Upper Zagreb is the medieval center of the city, Lower Zagreb contains all the city's wonderful turn of the century architecture. The center of Lower Zagreb is split in two by a beautiful and relaxing park, which stretches from the train station to the market square. Anyone entering the city from Zagreb station won't fail to be impressed by the city, walking out onto a wide open green Tomislava Square right in front of them, the lovely yellow Exhibition Center, and the green Mount Medvenica framing the entire scene. On a fine day it looks amazing.
The city feels relaxed, and safe. The people are friendly, polite and many speak English. It's a nice, comfortable atmosphere, with a great street cafe culture. Most people who come to Croatia will probably head straight down to Dubrovnik and the Adriatic coast, but by doing so will miss out on a distinctly different part of Croatia, one that is more Austrian than Italian.
It's possible that the city is too relaxed and safe for its own good. It can't help but feel provincial: a small capital of a small country a long way from the heart of Europe. It has little in the way of stand out features to attract the tourist, and it's also very expensive. I ran out of things to do after a couple of days, but I really enjoyed my time in the city, and would recommend it.
Things I Loved
The elegant architecture of Lower Zagreb, the winding medieval streets of Upper Zagreb, the safe, relaxing atmosphere, the parks, Medvedgrad and Mount Medvednica.
Surprises
How little of Zagreb's city center is blighted by socialist architecture, unlike Ljubljana and Belgrade.
Disappointments
Expensive, a little quiet, difficulty in finding a decent restaurant.
Reviews (19)
The Streets of Zagreb
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(5)
One of the most pleasant things you can do in Zagreb is to just wander the streets. There is such a variety of styles... more travel advice
The Saxophonist
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(5)
An amazing find, just off the main square. A quiet little arcade, on the corner of Bogoviceva and Preradovicev Try, that... more travel advice
Parks
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(5)
The parks of Zagreb are one of its finest assets, especially the parks that run from the main train station to the... more travel advice
Trains
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(3)
It has to be one of the nicest stations in Europe. It's tidy and clean, easy to navigate, and opens up onto a wonderful... more travel advice
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Comments (9)
Nice architecture in Zagreb. I like seeing things like the Croatian Folk singers in their national dress. Good tips and photos.
The train station is tidy and people are nice. However, don't ever take taxi in Zagreb as all the taxi drivers are just like robbering tourist !!!!
I have visited several extensive Zagreb pages by locals, but it is interesting to see what a foreign visitor points out in this city that I have not yet visited myself but will certainly! Thanks for sharing! Very interesting page!
It looks like you had fantastic weather to help you enjoy your time in Zagreb. This is a very nice little page describing your experiences! It sounds and looks like the type of place that I too would love to explore.
Hey, if you'll ever stop by again, feel free to contact and we'll find you some decent restaurants (bunch of them downtown), either international, Cro continental or coastal (preferred).
wondeful page. i planned to come here last August but unfortunately the plans were changed. Very, very beautiful city with amazing architecture. I will come one day for sure to see it by my eyes.
You caught the essence why I love Zagreb: its size, its hidden beauties and the general feeling of safety. (Plus politeness, although you do exaggerate a bit with the tram story ;) Excellent job, next time use Local VT-ers instead of the Lonely Planet!
Brilliant page Tim - you are quite the intrepid Englishman abroad - finding food, and obscure places!! :))
looking forward for more!!!