"Arnie's Town" a Graz Travel Page by antistar

It seems that every major city in Austria has its own patron. Vienna has Strauss, Salzburg has Mozart, Linz has Hitler, and Innsbruck has some anonymous begoggled skier called Toni Sailer. For Graz its patron has to be its one truly famous son: Arnold Schwarzenegger. They even have the main football stadium named after him. Well at least it was until a couple of days before I arrived in the city. Then the big Arnie controversy hit.

The problem is that Austria, along with the rest of the Europe, considers the death penalty to be an abuse of human rights. Arnie, on the other hand, supports it. In December of 2005 Arnie had the opportunity as governor of California to give clemency to aging former Crips gang member Stanley "Tookie" Williams. In spite of efforts to reform and repent for his ways, including campaigning against gang violence, Arnie refused him clemency and the 51 year old was given the lethal injection after 24 years in prison.

The Graz assembly members publicly condemned Arnie's support for the death penalty, and called for his name to be removed from the city's stadium. Arnie responded by removing their right to use his name, and returning the "ring of honour" that was bestowed upon him by the city in 1999. When I arrived the giant letters spelling out Arnie's name on the stadium had already been removed, taken down overnight, and the city was already in mourning over its loss. Some in Graz believe that its tourism industry would be hit severely, and hoped that Arnie would be true to his catchphrase: "I'll be back."

BBC Story on the Graz-Arnie Spat

Graz shouldn't be too concerned, it's a charming city and has plenty to see and do without looking to Arnie for extra Hollywood pizzazz. In fact, Arnie would seem completely out of place if he returned to the city. It's easy to see him as governor of California, but it would be hard to envisage him even living in this genteel city of students and cafes, let alone being its mayor. The citizens of Graz were concerned about the ostentacious architecture of the Kunsthaus, so I can't see them living with Arnie's perpetual paparazzi parade.

I spent two days in the city, and could probably have done with one or two more, as there was a lot I missed, including Arnie's museum which I couldn't find anywhere. Perhaps they took down the signs. I got very lucky with the weather, which was a snow storm on the first day, and a bright sunny day the next, giving me two very different views of the city. And cities rarely look as good as on a sunny day after a heavy snow fall.

Graz has many features, views and buildings to catch the lens too. Perhaps the most impressive building is the Kunsthaus itself which on a sunny day offers incredible riverside views of the city reflected in its unusual curved surface. The views of the city from the Schlossberg are also spectacular, especially at night, and despite the biting wind I spent a good hour or two up there admiring the snow covered roofs of the city.

It's not a dynamic city, though. Despite its youthful student population, it feels very parochial and a long way from anywhere. It's nearer to Hungary and Slovenia than the big central EU threesome of Germany, France and the UK. Every day I was there felt like Sunday. It's a great place to spend a few relaxing days soaking up the sights and views, but apart from the Kunsthaus there didn't feel like there was a lot to actually do in the city. But the Kunsthaus was special.

Things I Loved

Kunsthaus and Schlossberg.

Disappointments

I couldn't find the Arnie museum; Graz needs more Arnie!