This was as far along the Iraq highway, and about as close to the Iraqi border as I felt comfortable with. This was Qasr al-Azraq, the desert castle at the Jordanian choke point, with the borders of Syria, Iraq and Saudi Arabia all close by. It was home to Lawrence of Arabia for one winter during the Great Arab Revolt. It was also a popular tourist destination before 9/11.
Now, according to the curator, Nader, it was practically dead. Fewer people were coming to Jordan now. Since the Iraq war the traffic has petered out to nearly nothing. It was such a shame, as this guy was so proud of, and so knowledgable about, the castle and region, and now his talents were now going to waste, with nobody to listen to him. He was so nervous and enthusiastic when he took me around the castle, he was like a guy on his first date. I was his first visitor in days.
I promised him I'd encourage people to go to Azraq, and Jordan, and tell people not be afraid, because the place is friendlier, safer and freer from terrorism than pretty much anywhere else in the world. So go! Go to Jordan! Go to Azraq! Say hello to Nader the blue eyed Arab! |