Venice Restaurant Tips by mapakettle

dalla Marisa: Found another one...

No ambience, except the table of rowdy Gondoliers laughing, yelling, and drinking, while enjoying the great food and hospitality offered by Marisa, as she has been doing for years.

We had never walked this section before, and had no idea this place existed. We were just wandering with Ma Kettle's mom and sister, when we stumbled across it. The only evidence of a restaurant, apart from the singing of the gondoliers, were a few tables outside along the canal, no sign indicating a restaurant, no commercialism of any sort.

The place was full, but fortunately, within moments of our arrival, a couple of tables paid their tabs and departed. All locals, not a tourist to be seen. I took that to be a good omen.

There was a menu, of sorts, but mostly the waitress rhymned off specials, and you had to be quick to nod in the affirmative. I couldn't hear because of the water jockeys sitting across from us, but, heck, pasta is pasta, and I'll eat in in any fashion.

Favorite Dish: Turns out, meals include salad (a bit skimpy), pasta, plus a meat dish, a carafe of wine, and coffee.

My pasta was Tagliatelle with Duck sauce (perfect), my sister-in-law had spaghetti Ragu, Ma Kettle had Gnocci with four cheese sauce, all excellent, but my mother-in-law had hers with vegetables and white sauce ... and didn't care for it.

For the secondo, we ate collectively... steak (2), proscuitto and melon, and Sguassetti alla bechera (beef in gravy), and shared equally. The best proscuitto my mother-in-law has had since her arrival in Italy (she orders it often), as well as wonderfully sweet melon. Each dish was great. Fresh green beans came as the side dish, but the kitchen ran out before we had an opportunity to sample it. Alas, 'tis my favourite. (I had been eyeing other orders as the waitress walked past our table).

All in all, except for the noise factor, a great meal, served in typical Veneto fashion.

Total price for four ... 36 euro, which included wine and coffee. What a bargain.

***Washrooms are clean, no hole, hot water with soap and ample paper

Address: Cannaregio 652b, Fondamenta San Giobbe.

Comparison: less expensive than average

Directions: Left from the train station, stay on this side of the canal, past the shops, through the piazza, until you reach the bridge (six min.), turn left but don't cross, and stroll along the canal for (10 min.). Cross a small bridge, then another. On your left.

Other Contact: closed Sun., Mon., and Wed. eve.

Phone: 39 041 720211

Price: less than US$10

Rating: 4

Theme: Italian

Art Blu Cafe: Cardboard snacks...

The location of Art Blu Cafe is pretty good if you're looking for a chance to soak up some warming rays. The cafe is located in Campo Santo Stefano, on the eastern side. Unfortunately the day we were there, a building was under going renovations and was covered in mesh, so the scenery left a bit to be desired.

Campo Santo Stefano is Ma Kettle's favourite campo (in Venice, all piazza's are called campo's, except San Marco). Therefore, a stop in this campo for a coffee or a Spritz is a must during our wanderings. In choosing a table, look for the sun and note any buildings which might provide either shade, or block exposure as your meal progresses. You're paying for your spot, so make the most of it.

We shared a Tuna/onion pizza, and were horribly disappointed. It was slightly smaller than usual, had no detectable flavour, the tuna was the cheap darker variety, very skimpy cheese, and the crust, well, I would prefer to chew on an old library book. (euro 7.00)

A large beer was euro 5.00, and a regular was euro 3.00. Horrible meal, and the only bright spot was receiving a phone call from VTer 'craic' (Jen) as I was attempting to swallow the above mentioned snack.

Favorite Dish: None, but in fairness, the chairs faced the sun...

Address: S. Marco 2808 Venezia

Comparison: about average

Directions: on the east side of Campo Santo Stefano.

Bathrooms were relatively clean, but toilet seat fell off as it was lifted. No hand towels.

Phone: 041-5203070

Price: US$11-20

Rating: 1

Theme: Local

Trattoria al Ponte: Service? What service??

Seeming a very special little place, located directly across the canal from our favourite restaurant in Venice, alla Zucca.

Food looked great, the smells wafting out the front door were wonderful, and all outside tables were occupied. Ma went inside, and as she was waiting, a couple vacated a coveted spot in the sun. The proprieter told us it was ours, to take a seat.

We sat for a few minutes, listening to the woman sitting beside us talk non stop to her companions. I worried for her health, as at no time did she appear to take a breath. Waitresses appeared, glanced at us, disappeared back inside. In fact, waitresses appeared often, with never a smile or acknowledgement, certainly never with menu in hand.

We waited, we figeted, we listened to nonstop lady, but never did get service. We left. Twenty minutes is far too long to wait on a lazy sunny afternoon. If the restaurant had been busy, we would understand, but nothing can excuse the absence of a simple acknowledgement.

Favorite Dish: Wish I could answer this...

Directions: It is located directly across the canal from alla Zucca, on the opposite side of the funny angled bridge. Otherwise, attempting to give directions in Venice is foolhardy.

Rating: 0

Theme: Local

Breks: A simple, self serve restaurant Brek Ristorante Review

Breks is a simple and cheap place to eat. Food is OK, not great, but beats many high priced eateries scattered throughout Venice.

They offer 'stations' at which you place your order. Steak, chicken, and pork are standard, and is grilled right in front of your eyes, as are vegetables.

Pasta is always offered, usually includes a minimum of three choices, and you may mix and match. You also watch it being prepared. Service is adequate, but a tad slow, but food is always fresh.

You pour your own wine, collect your own cutlery, and stack your food on trays and pay at the back. Buns cost extra, and are tasteless, so unless you need bread with your pasta, give them a pass. Last visit Ma Kettle and I ate for less than eleven euro, including wine.

Favorite Dish: All dishes are freshly made in front of you, that is the most important thing. Plus, seating at tables away from stinky canals, with A/C in summer, and access to relatively clean washrooms are wonderful pluses.

Cafeteria style, no ambience, but they also serve American style breakfasts.

Comparison: less expensive than average

Directions: as you depart from the train station, turn left and stay on this side of the canal. Do not cross the bridge, even though it is a magnet. Walk for about 2 minutes, and Breks is on your left hand side. Very close to the train station...

Price: less than US$10

Rating: 3

Theme: Italian

Harry's Dolce: I peed in Harry's dolce...

Harry's Dolce is located on Giudecca, which is a simple water bus stop. Be aware that other than the photo ops, there really isn't much reason to go there, except for dessert.

Harry's Dolce is noted for Lemon merangue pies, their famous chocolate cake, and for desserts in general. They do offer such things as baked taglionini with ham, or turkey in tuna sauce. They have a wonderful outside patio, great shade, and no bugs. This is an ambitious off shoot from Harry's Bar located at San Marco, so we just had to visit during one of our numerous visits to Venice. The view is great, however, we could sit on the dock with the pigeons only two feet away for free.

Prices are outrageous. Each piece of dessert was 10.50 euro, plus we drank liquid gold instead of coffee it seems, as the total price was slightly under 35 euro. Plus, we were the only ones there, besides an English couple who were grumbling and finger pointing as they were leaving. Perhaps we should have clued in at that point...

The waiter was too busy walking about with his nose in the air to give us much notice. He was an idiot, so he received an idiot's tip (one penny...CDN). On the bright side, I got a chance to pee in Harry's dolce.

Favorite Dish: Pie was ok, rather sweet, very small slice and much less satifying than Ma's worst creation. However, to be fair, her pies are wonderful. Ma's chocolate cake was good, moist, but really nothing special for a person from North America. Coffee was basic, and service absolutely sucked. I would 'NEVER' return to this place, and give it a resounding two thumbs down.

Address: Giudecca 773, Fondamenta San Biagio

Comparison: most expensive

Directions: open April thru October, closed Tuesday

Phone: +39 041 5224844

Price: US$21-30

Rating: 1

Theme: Dessert

Pizza Pause: Pizza by the slice...cheap but satisfying

When you walk from the train station to the Rialto Bridge, you can't help but pass this little pizza place. It is just fast-food pizza, with the usual colours and feel of the fast food establishments, but it never fails to satisfy my cravings.

They usually have a half dozen varieties waiting for you to enjoy, and a small variety of beer and soft drinks to choose from. I don't know if they serve wine, but I will look next time I'm back.

Staff are 'always' pleasant, and I don't recall seeing the same face twice. There are a few tables available outside, and lots within. Bathrooms are 'usually' clean, but twice in a row one has been out of order...hopefully coincidence only.

I love sitting in the tiny square, smaller than our back yard, and watching the hundreds of people stream by. My favourite game is trying to identify the nationalities. I particularly like the closely built buildings as seen in the accompanying photos.

Favorite Dish: Two slices of Margarita pizza, and a Becks Beer...6.80 euro. No cover charge. No frills, but always fresh, tender crust, and a good covering of good quality cheese.

UPDATE...Mar 11/2006. Ma Kettle and I stopped for a quick bite, and had exactly the same thing as above, and prices have risen to 7.50 euro, with slightly less impressive cheese cover..

For a quick bite, with no 'expensive' after taste, I suggest you take a PIZZA PAUSE.

Address: Cannaregio 5608, 30131 Venezia

Comparison: less expensive than average

Directions: small little piazza on one side, large piazza on the other, either on your way to the Rialto Bridge, or on your back.

Phone: 032-50820234

Price: less than US$10

Rating: 3

Theme: Pizza

Pontini Trattoria Bar: Eat like a Venetian...

Definitely frequented by locals.We've been here about five times, and each time, it seems that the Venetians, not tourists, had occupied every table.

Very loud, but seemingly fun for all. People from every age group were saddled up to the bar, visiting and having a grand time. Fortunately we were outside, so the din of conversation was carried away by the canal and the passing of vaporetti's.

If Venice is a dying city, someone should let these good people know...

Bathroom is neat, clean, and North American style bowl, with seat. Warm water, soap, and paper.

Favorite Dish: The food is basic, by that I mean good, but no fancy add-ons that annoy the heck out of me. I enjoy pasta, but I don't want roasted pumpkin seeds sprinkled on top, or cappucino with Mongolian Sheeps milk. I want good basic pasta, maybe with seafood, often with ragu sauce.

Last night I had the seafood option. Most disappointing. My dish had broken bits of clam shells mixed in with the pasta, and I was forever crushing little pieces between my teeth. I'll NEVER order it again, in any restaurant. This experience was like eating a boiled egg, and finding that it had gone bad. Puts you off boiled eggs forever, as this has put me off Spagetti alo Scoglio (Fruit of the Sea). A most unappealing meal. Tasty, but hell on molars. Never chance it again.

I find no fault with the restaurant for the broken shells. If anything, I should have mentioned something, not for a price reduction, but rather as a warning so other patrons wouldn't suffer a broken tooth. I didn't, and I should have.

Ma Kettle and I were with VT member Risamay (Marissa)(very pleasant young lady, I might add) for a mini- VT meet, and they had ordered Gnocci in tomato sauce, which was very good. Be warned however, the pasta here is usually ordered as a prelude to a fish or meat dinner, so portions are relatively small. However, at euro 6, not a bad choice.

The house wine, (red in our case), was fresh and zingy. A full litre was euro 7,50.

We sat for a long time, and were never rushed. Service was prompt, efficient, and meals were served with a smile, even with a full house.

Date of visit late Sept/2004...Total price for three, including cocktails for three (Spritz), Litre of wine, and Pasta.... euro 38,50 (coperto included)

Update Mar 11/2006...Ma Kettle and I had two small plates of fries (3 euro each), one salad (3.50 euro), one beer (5 euro), and a glass of wine (2.50 euro)...plus two coperto charges (1.80 euro each) total price 20.60 euro. Prices are increasing, portions are shrinking.

Address: Cannaregio 1268 (canal Cannaregio)

Comparison: about average

Directions: Turn left as you exit train station, stay this side of the canal (don't cross bridge), stroll past the shops til you come to Canale Cannaregio, cross the bridge, then turn left. Walk 30 seconds, Pontini is on your right, canale on your left.

Phone: 041 714123

Price: US$11-20

Rating: 3

Theme: Italian

Gelato, prices do vary...: Gelato is a food, not an indulgence

Calling Gelato Ice Cream, is like calling Twinkies dessert.

No comparison. I am not, nor have ever been, a big fan of ice cream. Gelato is still not my favourite choice of dessert, but it far outshines anything found in North America. In order to attain that richness, that creamy flavour and texture, North American manufacturers simply add more calories and fat, in Italy, they remove additional air bubbles.

I dare you to blow up the picture, and then not crave a cone of Gelato.

Favorite Dish: The quality of Gelato differs between one maker and another, however, you are unlikely to notice the difference, until you find a true master...then there is no turning back.

Directions: Gelato is found everywhere throughout Italy

Price: less than US$10

Rating: 5

Theme: Ice Cream

Self Serve...Al Ponte Di Rialto: Don't eat here...

Ma Kettle and I went into this place for a quick, inexpensive, not fussy, bite to eat.

It was a self serve which suited us fine. Institutional style, flourescent lit, with a long counter where you selected your items from the cooler or hot table. Unfortunately, there were no prices on any of the items. However, being self serve, we didn't figure it could be too bad. Once we hit the cash register, we just about dropped. Thirty euro for two plates of dry chicken breast, tough, luke warm to cold roasted potatoes, and two very small individual wine bottles. Nothing else...absolutely nothing else !!

A complete rip off to tourists, plain and simple. I'm not opposed to a restaurant making a profit, but this was beyond acceptable. We would pay less in a Trattoria, get better authentic Venetian food, and be served to boot.

Just a suggestion. We were tired, our guard was down. We suggest strongly you ask the price prior to choosing your dish. We should have, we didn't, we're stupid. Please, learn from our mistake.

The biggest insult, was they charged us .50 euro coperto each...for nothing. The toilets were filthy, and only offered cold water.

For self serve, strongly suggest Breks in Venice. We always get a good deal, and reasonably decent food. 100% better than this place.

One and only visit Feb 5/2005

Favorite Dish: Food was poor, will never go back.

Address: S.Marco 5129 Venezia

Comparison: more expensive than average

Phone: 00890720279

Price: US$21-30

Rating: 1

Theme: Other

Columbus Ristorante Pizzeria: Try Mestre for dinner...instead of Venice

Ma Kettle and I were searching for the Casino that supposedly is in Venice (not the high-brow one which requires men to don jackets before entering), and ended up in Mestre, the town on the other side of the bridge from Venice. (mainland) We caught the right bus, went the wrong way, got off way way past our stop...but that's another story.

Anyway, as we were walking through Mestre on the way to the train station, we decided to stop at 'Columbus'. It looked warm and inviting from the outside, and was very clean and modern on the inside. They appeared to be doing a very brisk business, mostly with locals.

We were greeted immediately, and a young fellow came over with our menus, and upon hearing us speak English, promptly exchanged them for menus printed in our native tongue. Very nicely done.

Our waitress spoke English pretty well, certainly enough to shame my Italian, and was most helpful in trying to obtain directions to the Casino from fellow diners.

Our table had a spotless white table cloth, and the dining room had a certain warmth about it. Lots of chatter among the patrons, but not overly loud.

Bathrooms are 'exceptionally' clean.

Favorite Dish: Ma Kettle and I shared a pizza, which had great chewy cheese, and baked in a wood-fired oven, plus Ma had Gnocci in a Rugula and Gorgonzola cheese sauce (very good), and I ordered spaghetti, topped with 'an abundance' of Mussels and clams, and tomato sauce. Mmmm. We had the usual bread sticks etc.

To drink we had a 'grande' beer, a Spritz, and a small bottle of water. No dessert. Total price, including coperto (service charge) 25.50 euro.

Good food, good price, good service. What more could you ask for. When in Mestre....

Many people who go to Venice on holidays arrange rooms in Mestre. It is just a short bus ride away, and gives you a break from the 'closed in feeling' that Venice can give you. From the train, the city looks dirty, but away from the station, it is quite pretty, and new in regards to buildings etc. We didn't explore much today, but will make a point of going back soon.

Mestre is on the main Venice-Milan line, plus trains from Treviso go through here. It would be very difficult to miss it this town.

Our visit was April 17/04

Address: Via Piave, 68 - Mestre

Comparison: less expensive than average

Directions: last train stop before Venice, both from the north, and from the East. Immediately before the bridge to Venice on the mainland side.

Phone: 041/950068

Price: US$11-20

Rating: 4

Theme: Italian