"Venice.....we still think we're dreaming " a Venice Travel Page by mapakettle

We will never forget the sight of Venice as we walked into the warm sunlight from the train station almost three years ago. The canals, the buildings, wow !! What else can you say. This is the city we have seen on postcards, in magazines, in movies, and read about in books....and we were finally there.

In all fairness, the first sight you behold as you exit from the train station is less than fantastic. Many buildings are covered with mesh and scaffolding, and other stupid tourists like me are in the way. I try every time to take a captivating photo, but ...

Magical as a description doesn't do it justice, even though I have used that description to others, there is just so much more.

Our first area of exploration was the Jewish Ghetto, where we met Luca, our gondola guide, who suggested we travel through the older section of Venice, through the back 'ALLEYS' in order to get a feel for the city. I am so glad we listened to his advice, because Luca gave a running commentary on 'everything' as we drifted by. We saw the oldest bridge in Venice, we learned what the metal bars were for, inset in the brick infra-structure of various buildings, we heard how sewage is removed, we learned so, so much.......do what we did, you won't be sorry. Everyone should take a gondola ride once in their life. Price...about 130 euro for an hour and a half. Worth every penny, plus he sings too. We found out later however, that a gondalier who sings, charges more. If he offers to sing, ask what his price is. Always get a quote 'before' you board his craft. Be prepared to walk away if it is too high. There are numerous opportunities to hire a gondola.

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what is behind here...?

walk-a-bout....Venetian style

We bought all the maps, plotted our paths, chose our destinations, and promptly got lost, several times. Finally, we left all caution to the wind, and just 'wandered'.

We meandered up and down back alleys, into courtyards, got totally turned around, but always found our way out. Every time we got waylaid, we found more interesting shops, bars, and people. If you stick to the paths most traveled, you will miss so much. You are so busy dodging oncoming people, and looking up at the buildings for signs, that you don't see the little places, you miss the kids playing soccer, totally unconcerned by the stream of strangers passing by, and the local citizens laughing with one another, the old ladies striding past with great purpose, with more energy than I think I ever had.

Take note of the delivery men, with carts of supplies for the local stores, trying so hard to manuever through the narrow streets without clipping someones heel, and the young University students milling about the courtyards of various bars, enjoying life as only the young can.

Stop and consider the work going on 'behind' the sheeted off construction zones that you cursed because they are right outside your 200 euro a night hotel room, and appreciate the constricted spaces the workers have to endure, and the thousands of bystanders criticising their occasional smoke break.

Admire the little lady dressed so neatly in low heels and skirt, stooping to pick up remnants of their dog's dinner, amidst a crushing crowd of starry eyed tourists.

This is life in Venice. Daily life. Understand too, that as a tourist, you will pay more than the local, plus receive smaller portions. The typical Venetian will grab the opportunity to score a few extra euros from the hapless tourist. Accept it, or don't visit.

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and more canals...

Take your time, see the real Venice...

Take the time to see Venice, I mean really see it, throw away your maps, and pretend it is yesterday, with no pressure to see the highlights, and no deadlines.

I thank the people of Venice for sharing their lovely, quaint city with us, and I'm sorry if we gawk too much, I apologize for stopping suddenly, and whirling about to head off down those dark and narrow corridors, and we're sorry for walking on the wrong side of the streets. We forget that Venice is a 'REAL' city, and not a replica situated on the Las Vegas Strip.

UPDATE: Ma Kettle and I have lived within a half hour of Venice for almost three years, and have visited 'often'. We have yet to see all the 'must sees' of this city, because the list is endless. I have read many comments in the Travel forums where travel agents claim that one or two days is sufficient. Bull Roar !!! Change Travel Agents immediately. Also, if your travel agent books you into Venice late at night, or for an early am departure, have him rework your itinerary. You don't need the stress of navigating Venice in the dark. Plus, you miss that first magical glimpse of this mysterious city.

Venice is considerably tiring on your feet and on your legs. I strongly suggest biting the bullet, pay an extra twenty or thirty euros, and spring for accomodation within Venice itself. You can go back to your room, have a quick nap, wash your hands and face, change, and start fresh. (if you have an early morning departure by air however, it might make more sense to stay in Mestre)

There are countless concerts held later in the evening, and when you worry about catching trains late in the evening, you tend to forgo these wonderful opportunities. Plus many restaurants don't open until after 7pm, so good dining experiences are limited when you are concerned with train schedules.

Meals in Venice, for the most part, are disappointing. We have had numerous meals in every price range, and have yet to be thrilled. La Zucca is as close to total satisfaction we have come. We have had countless flops, and paid big dollars for real crap. Self Serve restaurants, with the exception of Breks, are a real rip off. Prices are not displayed, and the totals are shocking. You pay far too much for cafeteria type meals. Just be aware.

While on the topic of meals, remember that while visiting Venice, restaurants of all sizes generally close between 2pm and 7:30pm. Small bars remain open for a quick sandwich, but if you are desiring more than that, be prepared to plan your meal stop earlier. Outdoor seating fills up fast. Take note of the various sign boards advertising menus. Some will offer full coarse meals, waiving the coperto charges. At one time is was considered to be a fools folly to accept a Touristico menu, no longer, in fact, economically, it makes sense.