"Unavoidable between Savoy and Piedmont" Susa by JLBG

Susa Travel Guide: 63 reviews and 133 photos

Susa is at the crossing of three international roads passing either by the Mont Cenis pass and going to Chambéry, by the Montgenèvre pass and going to Briançon and Grenoble or the Frejus tunnel and going to Chambéry by autoroute. It is on the railway from Paris to Rome that connects Chambéry and Modane in France to Turin in Italy.

The lower Val Susa is the upper part of the Piedmont plain, just before crossing the Alps. Susa is at 500 meters elevation, 53 km from Turin. Diggings have revealed prehistoric dwellings (artifacts on display in the museum or in Turin). For the ancient Romans, Susa was a main trading center. There remains 6 Roman monuments, among which the Arena, August’s Arch (Arco di Augusto) and Savoy’s gate (Porta di Savoia). Susa has always been a “must pass here” for those wanting to get across the Alps, either from or into the Italian peninsula : Hannibal and the Carthaginese with their elephants, Julius Caesar and the Roman legions, Constantin, Charlemagne, the German emperors of the Holy Roman Empire, the Princes of Savoy who shifted their capital from Chambéry to Turin (which means they went across Susa) to become later Kings of Italy.

No wonder, if an imposing monument has been erected to honor the "Alpini", the special army units trained to operate in the mountain and to protect this highly strategic route.

Coming from Turin, an imposing construction, high on Mount Pichiriano (962m), catches the eye. East, it overhangs the Po valley and west, the Susa valley. It is Sacra San Michele, Saint Michael’s Abbey, a monument symbol of Piedmont, built at the end of the Xth century. It is worth a visit because of the landscape, of the boldness of its architecture, the monumental staircase and the frescoes inside the church.

BTW, thank you VT : each time I drove the Susa valley, I was puzzled by this stronghold but had never enough time to stop for a visit or learn about it. I had to know more to write about it and now, after many years, we finally visited it. I have built a page (link above) under "Avigliana".

I have often been to Susa but never visited really the city. When we drove back from the First VT Meeting in Verona, we decided to leave Vallegio sul Mincio in the morning, at 9:45 in order to avoid the terrible traffic jams we had two days before around Milan (2 hours !) and at the entrance of the Fréjus tunnel (1 hour wait). Everything ran so smoothly that we were in Susa at 12:30, which was the right time to find a restaurant (see my restaurant tip). At the end of dinner, it was too early to drive immediately back home, which is less than 2 hours from Susa, so we decided to visit Susa.

The towns and villages of the Susa valley are organized into two communities.
La Comunità Montana Alta Valle Susa (Mountain community of higher Susa Valley) assembles14 communities, elevation from 730 to 2,035 (mostly over1,100 m), with a total of 13,000 inhabitants. The cities are : Bardonecchia, Cesana Torinese, Chiomonte, Claviere, Exilles, Giaglione, Gravere, Meana di Susa, Moncenisio, Oulx, Salbertrand, Sauze d' Oulx, Sauze di Cesana, Sestriere.

La Comunitá Montana Bassa Valsusa e Valcenischia (Mountain community of lower Susa Valley and Mont Cenis Vale) assembles 23 communities, elevation from 356 to 730, with a total of 63,517 inhabitants.
The cities are : Almese, Avigliana, Borgone, Bruzolo, Bussoleno, Caprie, Caselette, Chianocco, Chiusa San Michele, Condove, San Didero, Mattie, Mompantero, Novalesa, Rubiana, Sant'Ambrogio, Sant'Antonino, San Giorio, Susa, Vaie, Venaus, Villardora, Villarfocchiardo.

Susa alone is a city of 6691 inhabitants. The map of the city shows that Susa is built in two parts, the lowest part, on the left bank of the river Doria Riparia is what most visitors see but actually, the oldest part was built on the first slopes of the mountain, in order to avoid the floods of the river.

The Susa valley has been the spot for several events of the 2006 Winter Olympic Games organized by Turin with its mountain neighborhood.

Last visit to Susa: May 2005
Intro Updated Apr 27, 2009
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Reviews (52)

Water Local Customs (2)

As in the whole Alpine bow, water is abundant. In Susa, you will find, scattered in various places of the city, brass... more travel advice

Dreher beer Local Customs (2)

The tradition of beer is ancient in northern Italy. Anton Dreher, from Vienna founded in 1869 in Trieste a brewery... more travel advice

The Pasha of Susa ! Off The Beaten Path (5)

This marble carved slab (Via Palazzo di Città) commemorates the memory of Lieutenant General Emilio Degiorgis... more travel advice

The Pasha of Susa ! Things to Do (40)

This marble carved slab (Via Palazzo di Città) commemorates the memory of Lieutenant General Emilio Degiorgis... more travel advice

Hotels (2)
See All The restaurant is excellent
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Comments (11)

Yaqui Apr 27, 2009 at 6:35 PM Report Abuse

Excellent tip about Staying on the Highway ! Wow, it seems those signs are a bit confusing. I am glad you figure that out. Madonna delle Grazie, looks absolutely beautiful inside and your attention to the detail of Arco di Augusto is appreciated.
Trekki Jul 1, 2007 at 1:53 PM Report Abuse

Ah yes, I think, I shouldn't miss Susa :-)) I like the Porta Savoia and the setting in general :-) And I already know that I will eat Bagna Cauda, yummmmm :-)
Nemorino Aug 28, 2006 at 10:36 AM Report Abuse

Yes, I remember the "lauzes" from one of your other pages. Beautiful photos and interesting texts.
mirjana51 Oct 7, 2005 at 6:39 AM Report Abuse

Thanks for this lovely page , Jean Louis ! Aaandd I really haven't heard of so small "arena" in my life :)) , as I haven't seen Sleep with Napoleon hotel...hahhah
Azhut Oct 6, 2005 at 3:15 AM Report Abuse

A very nice page of a tiny town XXXXX
tiger9090a Jul 30, 2005 at 12:27 AM Report Abuse

Very informative page with good photos!
ATXtraveler Jun 25, 2005 at 11:20 PM Report Abuse

Beautiful Sites... I had never heard of Susa before this!
globetrott Jun 22, 2005 at 11:00 PM Report Abuse

what a great mountain-scenery, Jean-Louis ! It is always amazing for me to see how the Roman remains have survived more than 2000 years already in rather good shape sometimes !
matcrazy1 Jun 3, 2005 at 3:47 PM Report Abuse

Very interesting information, especially on the amphiteatre and Waldensians, Valdese, Vaudois :-) Great job!
Bwana_Brown May 31, 2005 at 8:41 AM Report Abuse

You had a beautiful day to tour this picturesque location! Definitely, the 'lauze' tiles help provide some of the ambience! Very interesting stories on the history of the Amphitheatre and the old Roman wall. Amazing engineers!!