Most tourists see Chinatown from the safety of Grant Street. Now, while Grant street does have some good shopping and food choices, I’d recommend getting off the main drag and seeing some of the less touristy streets. Most people on Grant seem to be your fellow tourists, and while you’re there, you must hit the Golden Gate Bakery and grab a warm egg custard tart.
I’d suggest walking up a block from Grant, to Stockton street. This is the “working” street in Chinatown, with fish markets, produce stands, poultry markets, and crowds of people pushing past you to get the freshest fish, produce and poultry.
You may see things that are unpleasant, like frogs flopping in baskets (to eat, not for pets) and other live and recently live animals in various states of wholeness. As my wife says, “at least they’re honest about the food, not like the plastic wrapped versions in the local supermarkets.” I agree and love to shop at these places. Some of the fish markets can be challenging, with the smells and flopping fish parts everywhere.
Grab some dim sum from one of the small shops (either Lou’s or You’s) or check out the hanging ducks and bbq pork at Gourmet Delight. There are a few places like this on Stockton St, and you’ll usually find great food at any of these. Have something small to taste and keep walking to the next food shop.
Most of the streets in between Grant and Stockton feature sit-down restaurants, and some are quite good. You’ll have to do your own research or wait for me to complete mine if you want the complete run-down of these places. But a good rule is the more Chinese people in the restaurant, the better it probably is…or it just features a delicacy that most restaurants don’t have, so be careful or you’ll end up with the birds-nest soup.
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Address: Bordered by Broadway, Bush, Kearny, Stockton sts.
Directions: Ornamental gate at Grant and Bush intersection.
Website: http://www.sfchinatown.com/
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on May 24, 2005
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