"Qiubei and Puzhehei" Jinping by mke1963
Jinping Travel Guide: 11 reviews and 15 photos
Jinping is Qiubei. Trust me on this. I have spent a lot of time checking GIS databases and this is it.
I haven't been to the town of Qiubei, which is a pity because I was told it is an atmospheric market town.
No. I was focused on Puzhehei, and was approaching from the north (Luoping aka Lioxiong). As Puzhehei is 13km north of Qiubei, I never quite made it.
Puzhehei has been described by some as the poor man's Guilin/Yangshuo.
Another way of looking at it is that Guilin is the souvenir and T-shirt buyer's Puzhehei.
Puzhehei is simply stunning, despite the attempts of the authorities to spoil it by hapless 'beautification' projects (white tiles and inappropriate landscaping, you know the game). The karst landscape is not as spectaculat as Guangxi or even southern Guizhou, but Puzhehei is deserted and the still lakes, placid pastoral landscapes rich in colour and content make this a very special place.
Here women row boats laden with vegetables and floating kitchens across the lakes and canals because that is how they have always served breakfast and lunch to those working deep in the fields of Puzhehei.
Men sit on the bank and mend fishing nets while smoking dodgy weeds out of pipes (this is also tobacco country) because they have been doing this for centuries.
Small boys hide in trees and throw fruit at passers-by because they are small boys.
Few people shout "Hello" after you, and you get a respectful nod from the women shelling peanuts in the rented peanut-shelling machine.
Dogs roam around; chickens stay alert.
All around, green stubs of limestone mountains rise steeply out of the water and the flat plain. Dense undergrowth make climbing them difficult but many have paths cut into the stone allowing a stunning view of the area.
The area is not easily accessible though, as it is a long way off the railway lines and you need to rely on bus services between Kunming and Qiubei (Wenshan Prefecture). As I had my own car, it was less of an issue.
The trip really is worth it though and this is an area with a number of ethnic minorities each with different customs and farming practices. Each market town in the area is a real melee of colorful costumes and languages.
The area is great for walking and would be great for horse-riding, canoeing, sailing and even hang-gliding. One day, perhaps.
The road west of here leads to Nijiao and Jiangbian.
The road north leads to Luoping via Gaoliang and Wuluohe.
- Pros:Gorgeous scenery, fascinating people
- Cons:Difficult to access (is this a Con or a Pro?)
- In a nutshell:Perfect countryside - exploring real China
On the road north of Puzhehei, there are many places where potters work with the rich clay from the fields. I originally... more travel advice
Local map of the main lake at Puzhehei. The entrance area is at the bottom, where there is a green arch. The Yinhu hotel... more travel advice
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