"Zhangye" Zhangye by mke1963

Zhangye, now a rather non-descript city in the Hexi Corridor, was far more important centuries ago: sufficiently so for Marco Polo to stay more than a year. Until comparatvely recently, Zhangye was known as Ganzhou. A sign, perhaps of the importance of the place is suggested by the fact that the name of the province of Gansu is a merger of the old names of the two then most important places Gan (Zhangye) and Su (Jiuquan). ('Zhou' just means 'town', hence the frequency it occurs in China.....Lanzhou, Suzhou, Xuzhou, Wenzhou, etc.)

Gulou

Today Zhangye is an agrcultural and administrative city with its share of unpleasant and noxious steel and cement works, especially to the north of the town near the railway.

To the south, it is possible to get quickly across the gravel plains to the Qilanshan Mountains, and it is possible to get by bus to Xining in Qinghai, although note that the two northernmost counties in Qinghai are currently closed to foreigners, so be discreet.

The biggest attraction, well worth the effort to get there, is Matisi Temple and Scenic Area, huddled up against the big mountains.

Zhangye has managed to keep some if its older monuments, including the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, the forlorn and unappreciated Gulou in the town centre and several pagodas and temples. All are subject to quite appalling abuse: the gulou has huge banners advertising a local alcohol drink and the pagoda is lit up at night with glittering strobe lights and pink highlighting. It's a sad reflection on the ignorance of local officials and politicians when their own heritage is tarted up like a brothel.

On the Silk Road, next destination westbound is Jiayuguan, while east you come to Wuwei.