| Page Views: 22,772 Last Visit to Sidi Ifni: January, 2004 | If Only... by mafi_moya - last update: Feb 18, 2004 |
If only I could have stayed longer in Ifni. This is without shadow of doubt, far and away my favourite town in Morocco. For natural beauty, Merzouga or the Atlas Mountains are far superior but as my Dad used to say, it's the people that make a place. And the people in Sidi Ifni have made their little fishing town on the Atlantic coast into the highlight of my trip and one of my favourite towns anywhere. It's completely unique and a real 'one in a million' town. |
The locals are the friendliest I met in Morocco, always eager to drop what they're doing and help out a stranger. As soon as I stepped off the bus I was given a full guided tour - what a welcome change from Marrakech where I'd come from, where people expect paying simply for as much as a "hello". There's a likeable and understated arrogance about the people here, as if they know only too well that they live in a really great town. It's unbelievably quiet and laid back and it's impossible not to get in to the relaxed and happy frame of mind of everybody else. There are tourist shops and things to buy but there's no hard sell - it takes too much energy!
For a traditional town based on the fishing industry and the port it's a strangely eccentric and quirky place. It was in Spanish hands as late as 1969 (named Santa Cruz del Mar Pequena) and although independence is enthusiastically celebrated there remains an interesting Latin influence that sets it apart from other Moroccan towns. Much of the town was built in the 1930s and the Spanish art-deco style is clearly evident in many of the individually designed houses. Doors, windows, roofs and buildings are all distinctive and unique, yet most are painted a uniform blue and white giving the town its identity. |
Many of the buildings on the seafront are crumbling and decaying but they remain fascinatingly appealing. The people are fashionably dressed and liberally religious - women walk side by side whether covered head-to-toe or dressed to party - and there are some very fashionable cafes and restaurants. There's great Cuban-style live music and the singers of Mali and Senegal and American blues are preferred to the Arabic pop found elsewhere. There's a noticeable artistic community as well, even down to the bright graffiti murals on walls around town.
There isn't really much to see or do here. The "must see activities" could be done in an hour or two and aren't exactly spectacular to start with. The slow pace of life leaves some visitors bored or frustrated, although the town does come alive a bit more at night. It's just the vibe and the atmosphere that make it so appealing and completely unique. It's difficult to stress just how much I liked this town and I could have quite happily spent weeks here, doing nothing but having a good time. |
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 Comments for mafi_moya about Sidi Ifni | | | | |
ilias1235 Thu Jul 17, 2008 13:01 UTC
Having stayed at hotel ait baamrane for 9 days, I would not recommend it.Tv dodgey, rattley windows .Any appeal to have things fixed got the response : a demain.Then got attacked by 6 drunken Welsh gits...nothing!!! .The barman,Brahmin is cool tho'.ilias | Von_RIX Tue Mar 11, 2008 19:49 UTC
Thanx for sharing your experience in Sidi Ifni. I am browsing Morocco's Atlantic coast for some quite non touristy town,just want to spend couple of weeks on my own. And looks like this is going to be my choice. | angiebabe Tue Jun 5, 2007 09:36 UTC
Beautiful pics and writings about your love for and good time in a town i visited just once for a few hours 4 years ago - had great coffee and patisserie and sea views there! - lovely record for us to see!thanks. | geoveo Mon Aug 7, 2006 17:28 UTC
Many thanks for your reviews of Sidi Ifni. We are going to southern Morocco in November and were wondering whether to go there or not and if we'd find a hotel. Your comments are very helpful. |
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