"Enemies in the City of the Friend" Top 5 Page for this destination Hebron by mafi_moya

Hebron Travel Guide: 21 reviews and 69 photos

Rooftop military outposts in occupied Hebron

Camel at the local butchers

Whether in Hebrew (Hevron) or Arabic (Al Khalil) the name of this ancient city means 'The Friend'.

The friend in question is father Abraham, one of the most revered figures in Judaism, Islam and Christianity, and his burial place here makes the city one of the most volatile and hotly contested in Palestine.

I don't know how anybody - Jew, Muslim, atheist or whatever - can visit Hebron and not feel profoundly depressed, angry and upset. But while it was miserable it was also incredibly fascinating. This is the heart of bible country and the town and the surrounding hills are full of thousands of years of history and legends. Unfortunately, while plenty of religious sites are still to be seen, it's the modern realities of the Israel-Palestine conflict that dominate any visit these days.

City centre

It's a bit of a cliche to say this on a travel site but Hebron really is a tale of two cities - one under the control of Israel, one the Palestinian Authority.

The Palestinian city is your typical bustling, chaotic Arab town. It's poor but it's full of life. The colourful old-fashioned souk dominates the city centre, but then almost right in the middle of the market the road closes and you're faced with a huge concrete tower and a military checkpoint. The other side, under Israeli military control, might as well be a whole new world - everything is deserted, the streets are empty. There's no traffic, few people, no animals - just soldiers, tanks, barbed wire and mile after mile of closed shops.

It's quite a chilling place and for the Palestinian kids who live in this bleak military zone it's easy to see why many become so completely desperate and devoid of hope.

Intro Updated Jan 21, 2005
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Reviews (12)

The Old City Things to Do (9)

Hebron is an ancient city in a part of the world that stretches back for thousands of years. Just northeast of the Tomb... more travel advice

It's this way but you can't go there - Hebron

Military zone Warnings and Dangers (1)

While many of the people in Hebron are understandably wary of speaking to strangers, I found most people that I did... more travel advice

Getting to Hebron Transportation (1)

From Israel the easiest way to get to Hebron is from Jerusalem. Catch bus number 21 from the main street right outside... more travel advice

Camel meat Local Customs (1)

I've travelled in quite a few countries where camels are a common sight, but very few tend to eat them. They can be... more travel advice

Travelogues (2)

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Comments (4)

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FruitLover Mar 29, 2008 at 5:42 AM

On 1967 Hebron and West Bank were taken by Israel from Jordan (Palestinians were part of Jordan) in a justified defence war. Israel has piece treaty with Jordan with great co-operation.(en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_...)
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Sue08080 May 26, 2006 at 1:57 PM

Excellent tips about a difficult subject. I've posted a photograph, but have yet to write anything.
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travellingdan Mar 20, 2005 at 2:03 AM

Just to have it complete: From Qualandia you can easily go back to Jerusalem by taking one of the white Service Taxis (small busses) fro around 3 and a half Schekel.
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coceng Jan 20, 2005 at 4:31 AM

I feel sad looking at these photos...:( Regards.