Dolphins splashing in the ocean at sunrise and other Jacksonville, FL Off The Beaten Path Tips

Get up early and head out to Atlantic, Neptune or Jacksonville Beach to watch the sunrise. (If you're staying at one of the oceanfront hotels, simply walk out onto your balcony). Not only is a Jacksonville sunrise over the ocean an awesome and magnificent sight to behold, but it often is enhanced by the rolling fins of dolphins.

Dolphins can be seen any time of day around Jacksonville (I was completely surrounded by them in the St. Johns River one afternoon), but they tend to be especially active in the ocean just as the sun rises. First look for rolling black shapes appearing and disappearing at the surface of the water. Keep watching and you may be lucky enough to see one or a few come out of the water a little!

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Jacksonville's own Malibu, exclusive Ponte Vedra Beach boasts the gargantuan oceanfront mansions of millionaires, a trio of world-class resorts including the five diamond rated Ponte Vedra Inn & Club, and shopping villages filled with high-end boutiques.

Driving down swanky Ponte Vedra Blvd, those of us "still working on our first million" (yeah, right) can make ourselves sick admiring one showy oceanfront mansion after another. The road even cuts right through the center of the grounds of two luxury oceanfront spa resorts. (Just be very wary of the slow, slow speed limit).

One thing you probably won't see along this stretch are public accesses. By law, public accesses are required, however, they have become obscured by shrubbery and other creative deterrents. This is because like in many other exclusive seaside strands around the country, private wealth seems to come at odds with public right-of-way, making Ponte Vedra a prime local battleground for access issues. So, how can you see what these grand homes look like from the beach side?

One fantastic public access lies at the southern end of Ponte Vedra Blvd. in what the locals call Mickler's Landing. Here, ample parking and facilities are provided, allowing beachcombers to enjoy both a priceless ocean view and a multi-million dollar backdrop.

In contrast to the soft white powder that characterizes much of Jacksonville's shoreline, the sand at Mickler's Landing is coarser and more pinkish in color due to the increased presence of coquina (ground up shells). Mickler's Landing is also known as one of the best spots in the state for finding sharks' teeth.

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Website: www.geocities.com/jacksonvillelinks

Along a narrow stretch of barrier island separating Jacksonville's beaches from St. Augustine's beaches, Guana River State Park is thought to be where Ponce de Leon first landed in "La Florida" in 1513.

Straddling both sides of a very scenic section of A1A, the ocean side boasts some of the tallest sand dunes in the state and miles of undeveloped beachfront. Across the highway, the park's Intracoastal side boasts more dunes, scrub and wetlands, a section of which is designated a wildlife management area.

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Website: www.geocities.com/jacksonvillelinks

Those who appreciate quirky, imaginative architecture will love the oceanfront homes along the quiet, residential stretch of northern Atlantic Beach. (Take Seminole Rd. north to the second public parking access).

Many of the houses here were designed by famed local architect William Morgan and reflect a variety of unique designs resembling a flying saucer, a pyramid, a sandcastle, an underground house (identified by two large circular windows carved into the side of a grassy mound) and other abstract shapes.

A stroll along the sand in northern Atlantic Beach affords the best view of these homes, which are surrounded by other large beach cottages that reflect a mix of New England, Caribbean, Carolina and Long Island design influences.

Of course, the beach here is a treat in itself, composed of the same soft, white powder expanses and lush dunes that characterize most of Jacksonville's shoreline.

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Website: www.geocities.com/jacksonvillelinks

The St. Johns River Ferry (also called the Mayport Ferry) is the only remaining public auto ferry in Florida. Part of scenic route A1A, the ferry transports cars and pedestrians across the St. Johns River between the coastal Jacksonville neighborhoods of Mayport Village and Ft. George Island.

Once you've parked and the ferry is in motion, you can get out of your car and enjoy a wonderful boat cruise across the entrance to Jacksonville's busy shipping channel. (Don't be surprised to see a towering luxury cruise ship or a cargo ship stacked with truck trailers heading to or from port during your ride). When approaching the opposite ferry landing you'll likely be welcomed by a flock of goofy looking pelicans perched along the docks.

If you would like to watch the ferry while you dine, the Sanddollar, on Ft. George Island is a wonderful restaurant with big picture windows overlooking the river, while Singleton's is a legendary "shrimp shack" on the Mayport side that has long been a favorite of locals, visitors and travel critics alike.

The ferry departs daily on the hour and half-hour from Mayport Village and every quarter-past and quarter-til from Ft. George Island. The cost for the average 2-axle car is $2.75 (one way).

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Website: http://www.stjohnsferry.com/

In the winter time those with a sharp eye may spot whales migrating just off the shores of Jacksonville's beaches. Last winter one whale made local headlines when it took a wrong turn and found itself swimming in the St. Johns River. Wildlife authorities kept patrol until the whale safely found its way back out to sea.

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Literary scholars will be interested to know that the historic home of Harriet Beecher Stowe, the famous author, still stands in a small park on scenic Mandarin Road near the river in the city's Mandarin neighborhood. The historic site sits along a quiet stretch of road lined with stately homes and and shaded by a dense canopy of majestic water oaks.

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While better known for its abundant pristine beach parks and the enormous Timucuan Preserve that comprises much of the city's northeast side, Jacksonville's park system (the largest urban park system in the country) also contains numerous smaller gems sprinkled throughout the city. One such gem is Mandarin Park, located along a very wide stretch of the St. Johns River and a peaceful tributary called Julington Creek. Heavily wooded with jogging trails, picnic areas and a marina, Mandarin Park offers a scenic, shady retreat that's perfect for a romantic picnic or family fun time. Located within the southernmost edge of Jacksonville's city limits in Duval County, from here you can look south across Julington Creek and see St. Johns County or look southwest across the wide expanse of the St. Johns River and see the distant shoreline of Clay County.

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Located a short 45 minute drive south of Downtown Jacksonville, the historic city of St. Augustine is the oldest continuously occupied European settlement in the continental United States. It was founded by the Spanish in 1565, 42 years before the English colonized Jamestown and 55 years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock.

Attractions are diverse and plentiful in this European looking village, including forts, historic sites, living history museums, animal parks, sightseeing tours, ghost tours, specialty museums and areas for recreation and amusement. In fact, here it's common to see authentically clothed soldiers and craftsmen walking around town, particularly at the Colonial Spanish Quarter and at the Castillo de San Marcos, where if you're lucky you'll see (and hear) a cannon firing demonstration. The historic district is a walkable area of several square blocks featuring a vast array of attractions, shops, art galleries, restaurants, bed & breakfasts and hotels within a short distance from one another. St. George Street, a pedestrian-only corridor located right in the center of the historic district, is where most of the city's visitors congregate to eat and shop. While St. George may be the only pedestrian-only corridor, numerous other surrounding streets also offer a variety of unique shops, restaurants and galleries from which to choose. In fact, two main entry corridors, King St. and San Marco Ave., are known for having large concentrations of art galleries and antiques shops respectively.

St. Augustine, located about 40 miles south of Downtown, and the pirate town of Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island, located about the same distance north of Downtown, serve as charming geographical bookends to the volumes of unique experiences visitors will enjoy when visiting Jacksonville.

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A heavily wooded barrier island boasting broad beaches of white quartz sand, Amelia Island is a quaint blend of the very old, the very exclusive and the very natural. This northernmost island in all of Florida is often grouped with Jacksonville's beaches due to its close proximity. About a 45 minute drive north of Downtown Jacksonville, the historic pirate town of Fernandina Beach occupies the northern third of the island. Birthplace of the modern shrimping industry, much of the town’s red brick architecture along Centre Street reflects the 1800s and early 1900s. Today, a number of interesting shops and restaurants add to the street's allure. Bed & Breakfasts are also plentiful in Fernandina Beach, occupying grand Victorian homes in the Historic District and a variety of cottages along the beach. Fort Clinch in Fernandina Beach is a large, well preserved, red brick Civil War fort surrounded by beaches and nature trails. It sits at the very northernmost tip of Amelia Island, looking across the wide harbor that marks the state line.

South of Fernandina much of the island's mid-section is an exclusive playground of the rich lined with posh oceanfront resorts, high rise condos and well respected golf courses. Here, posh Summer Beach is home to the Ritz-Carlton Amelia Island, one of the world's top rated hotels and a favorite retreat for visiting celebrities. Concours de Elegance, the largest antique, rare and celebrity-owned car show in the Eastern U.S., draws the rich and famous to the Ritz Carlton every year. Meanwhile, the Bausch & Lomb Championships attract some of the biggest names in women's tennis to Amelia Island Plantation, a large resort area that first put modern day Amelia Island on the radar screens of wealthy travelers. Amelia Island State Park, at the southernmost tip of the island facing Big Talbot and the ocean, stands out as one of the few places in Florida where visitors can ride horseback along the seashore thanks to the Kelly Seahorse Ranch.

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