"Roof of the World" Tibet by jadedmuse

Tibet Travel Guide: 1,293 reviews and 3,665 photos

For a fast paced view of Tibet through my eyes, click on my video clip Seeking the Shambhala

Roof of the World...

I can guarantee you that if you ever make it to Tibet, you'll pinch yourself that first day, trying to convince yourself that you really are on the roof of the world.

The essence of Tibet is still very present, despite the ever-increasing Chinese occupation...but there is no question that it is becoming eclipsed by the latter and this is truly one of our great global tragedies.

I didn't want to fly into Lhasa and have to waste precious time lying prone in a hotel room just to avoid succumbing to altitude sickness, so we opted to do a "land tour" (in a Toyota Land Cruiser) from Kathmandu all the way through to Lhasa. This proved to be a great idea because it provided for scenic appreciation while allowing for gradual altitude adjustment. We returned to Kathmandu via China Southwest Air, and I have to say that the Himalayas are impressive when you are on the ground looking up - but even more so when you are next to them, looking just a few thousand feet down at them.

We were joined at the beginning of our trip by Eric, a retired geologist from California, and Anita and Salina, two Indian girls from the U.K. The extra company made for a terrific 8 day trip over the stark and silent Tibetan Plateau. We had a fantastic driver and a wonderful guide...both Tibetan (something I insisted on when planning this trip).

David, Dawa and I inside Sera Monastery compound

I don't know to what extent Tibetan guides are available (vs. Chinese guides); our guide's name was Dawa and she was 25 years old with only the very basic of English language skills - for which she never stopped apologizing. I was in awe that she could speak English at all. I realized with some sadness that Dawa was born into a Tibet already bereft of its spiritual and political leader, and governed by an entirely different rubric - the Chinese lexicon. We couldn't believe that Dawa found herself ugly - she had a gorgeous smile, beautiful hair and fantastic bone structure. It took me a day or so to realize that she's only ever had Chinese television characters and print ads by which to measure her own physical attractiveness. I'm guessing that she found her more swarthy, wind-blown look to be somehow inferior to that of her Chinese contemporaries. I was likewise bemused to catch her on occasion, quietly singing along to the latest Chinese pop song on the radio. Still, Dawa was fiercely Tibetan and her spirit, humility and intelligence were a wonderfully unexpected bonus to this already amazing trip.

Dawa explained to us that she had only really ever received one other English speaking tour group - the majority of her groups are Chinese tourists, which for whatever reason, struck me as odd. I wondered how she felt about that. I suspect she was somewhat ambivalent - today's generation of Tibetans has grown up with an escalating infrastructure, cell phones, and internet (all in full force thanks to the Chinese presence) - and yet these very things rankled at me. I felt conflicted. Who am I to begrudge progress and technology to another people? And yet the Tibetans clearly chafe under an oppressive, foreign regime and the injustice of it was something I observed up close and personally. It was sad, unsettling, and ultimately heart-wrenching. Dawa confided to us that one day, she would leave Tibet for either India or Nepal, where she would live freely. I wondered how we could assist her, while at the same time, I felt bad encouraging her to flee her own home land. It was a strange place for me to be, both literally and figuratively.

Losing the Shangri-La...

Familiar Tibetan insignia - Potala Palace in Lhasa

The Chinese finished constructing (uh, "thanks" to Bombardier, a French-Canadian company supplying the logistics and opting to do so amidst great controversy) a railway system facilitating travel between Tibet's capital city of Lhasa and the People's Republic of China.

Lhasa which only recently was known as the seat of the Forbidden Kingdom, has more and more of a busy Chinese feel to it. Even the magificent Potala Palace is getting lost in the chaos.

If you've EVER thought of going to visit this mysterious country of Tibet, you must go NOW.

See it for yourself. It will be an overwhelming and deeply gratifying experience - but one that will leave you feeling conflicted and even helpless....wistful, sad perhaps...not unlike the feeling I got when I once visited a Navajo Reservation in Arizona.

Which in turn begs the question, what price are we prepared to pay for cultural enlightenment?

Peace.

Pros and Cons

Pros:Discovering the Tibetan culture, our Tibetan guide Dawa, the Monks, the striking, stark, scenic landscape
Cons:Tibetan food, getting more of a "Chinese" feel instead of "Tibetan", Lhasa traffic, crappy communist hotels, random spitting
In a nutshell:Tibet grabs your heart through its quiet mystery and dignified people

Last visit to Tibet: Oct 2002
Intro Updated Jul 3, 2008
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Reviews (13)

Losing the Shangri-La Warnings and Dangers (3)

The Chinese are constructing a railway system that will make Lhasa an integral part of the People's Republic of China.... more travel advice

front of the Norbulinka or "Summer Palace" - Tibet

Norbulinka Palace Things to Do (5)

Otherwise known as the "Summer Palace" of the Dalai Lama, and his favorite place. Although it was pretty run down, it... more travel advice

David in front of the Pentoc which we enjoyed - Tibet

Go Tibetan, with a Bohemian Twist Hotels (1)

First of all, we did NOT have reservations for this hotel. Since I'd planned everything in advance from home (Florida),... more travel advice

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Nightlife (1)

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz...because that is what you'd be best served doing. We were standing atop the Jokang Temple and this... more travel advice

Local Customs (1)
Tashi-Delek to the Locals!
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Comments (84)

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Durfun Aug 31, 2011 at 4:33 AM

Great page & nice write-up. Love the idea of the drive from Kat to Lhasa for gentle altitude-adjusting ;-)
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hunterV Dec 7, 2009 at 4:06 AM

Great destination.....Magnificent indeed! Thanks for sharing! ><><><><><
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850prc May 21, 2009 at 3:00 PM

Amazing page, Michelle. So sad that the news and talk of the Dalai Lama has to be done so clandestinely, but such is life in Communist China.
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angiebabe Apr 25, 2009 at 3:32 PM

Excellent page - I started learning mandarin 2 nights a week for 8 yrs in the 90s to go to Tibet - got waylaid by Europe and Morocco and still not got there - nor done much chinese homework!But one day yet.....!
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DennyP Dec 2, 2008 at 4:35 AM

Great page michele...also very informative tips and photos..This must have been a great experience ..I hope to go to Tibet next year..Thanx for sharing..
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SWFC_Fan Oct 1, 2008 at 1:40 PM

Another superb page, and what a fascinating place Tibet sounds! Loved your tip about the discrete carrying of the Dalai Lama photo and having to strategically avoid the spycams in the monasteries! Another place on my ever-growing "to do" list!
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easterntrekker Sep 24, 2008 at 1:12 PM

Great pages. We almost went last year but opted out as my husband was a pretty altitude sick a couple of years ago in Peru...your idea of driving in looks like a good one!
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Jim_Eliason Jul 20, 2008 at 8:47 PM

Great page Michele!
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RoyJava Jun 13, 2008 at 7:39 AM

Still amazed entering your Tibet VT pages, every time again, love to explore yours, greets RoyJava
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maysue Apr 5, 2008 at 8:23 AM

Yes, I did pinch myself when I took the first train from Beijing to Lhasa, Tibet last 2 years ago. It was unbelievable and wonderful feeling. Can't all that change now.