"Kenya" Kenya by Suet

Just got back from a trip January 2011, a gap of 8 years. The obvious improvements are many. Thanks to Chirau Ali Mwakwere the transport minister, the main road from Mombasa to Nairobi (the main highway into the country for imported goods) is now being made into a dual carriageway. It is 75% completed with proper feeder roads and under passes. In the past, I have travelled down this often poorly made single track road to encounter two lorries coming towards me abreast with no place for me to go. The one on my side of the road generally veered off into the bush and turned over. There were also lorries which had broken down and were blocking the road and in places the tarmac disappeared resulting in an incredibly bumpy ride and masses of dust.

The matatus are now regulated using the Michuki Rules, one seat one passenger. Limited passengers and seats for all, as well as more careful driving. There are now lady touts and an increasing number of lady drivers, less agressive and more careful than the idiots who drove them in the past. The government has undercover passenger spies on board who report on drivers who overload and also on policemen who try to comtinue to take bribes from the drivers.

The loads on the lorries is being reduced, this will help the road surface from being pounded and eroded too quickly. This is rigorously enforced but slipping slightly.

There is more electricity and lights and traffic lights are working. The electricity is being delivered to even the most remote villages to allow the children to comtinue studying after dark. There is free schooling for the primary pupils.

In some estates the lighting has been improved and it is safe to walk around after dark. The street families and boys have been removed and sent back to the villages or rehoused in churches and given an education. The street hawkers have been given their own markets which means that they no longer sell on the streets, cluttering up the pavements. The beggars have been removed and given paid work to do, despite their disabilities.

All in all I found the city of Nairobi a safer, cleaner, less crowded and happier city than when I left. You still need to be aware of pick pockets and con men however.

We lived there for 3 years, usual Ex-pat style, treated like royalty and finding that difficult to accept.

Nairobi (Nairobbery) is interesting to say the least. There are safe areas which I visited on my own, namely, The Sarit Centre, The Village Market, ABC Place where all the expats go to shop. There are also very many more places it is not safe to go. Don't go there!!!

Check this UN site before travelling to get the update on the security situation.......

http://www.unon.org/unoncomplex/security_advice.php

However, if you are brave enough, you can travel upcountry with a convoy to places like Samburu, Marsabit, Isiolo..... we travelled all over, Aberdares, Amboseli, Tsavo, Lake Nakuru, Lake Naivasha, Masaai Mara...

One of the favourite places we took our guests was Lake Nakuru Lodge. It is a small game park, but you can see everything except elephant and cheetah. The main attraction for me were the flamingos..... as far as you can see, pink on the water, pink and blue..... like a sprinkling of cherry blossom all around the edges of the lake. Pink and blue...... If you can get close enough to flim on the black volcanic shore line, they sound like a train, thousands and thousands of voices all together.....

Good place to film lion, got some brilliant shots over the years, got a film sequence of 4 rhino chasing 2 young male lion for about 15 minutes.... leopard in a tree, pride of lions feeding.

We also rented Naishi House, which is the old Game Warden's cottage, 2 bedrooms, 2 double and 2 single beds (like bricks, very hard to sleep on!!!) you can also sleep in the lounge if you don't mind that. Self catering, but the joy of watching the animals walk past your front door is worth millions. We took some night vision goggles to see what came up for the chicken carcass, turned out to be honey badgers and the usual black backed jackal.

Main hazard was cooking breakfast while my guests went on a game drive and keeping all the windows shut as the house was surrounded by vervet monekys, shaking the frames trying to get in..... damn monkeys! A baboon got into the car once and ran off with my Wellington boots......

• Pros:Wildlife, birds, flowers and plants, weather, heat, beautiful country
• Cons:Crime, poverty, bad roads and potholes, people constantly asking you for something
• In a nutshell:When the crime is conquered and the roads mended, I am go back there.......