"Traveling back in time around Spain" Spain by Hesus

Spain’s history speaks through its buildings and surroundings, taking us back to the ages of the Romans, the Arabs and the Renaissance. A unique mixture of cultures we can experience by staying in palaces, monasteries and medieval castles, now restored by the government-backed hotel chain Paradores of Spain to preserve their ancient ambience, while incorporating many modern aspects of today’s life to ensure comfort.

The word "parador" (or stopping place) was the lodging offered to persons of respectable rank in medieval times. Based on this tradition, the hotel chain was established in 1926 and today the Parador network adds up to more than 90 hotels throughout the country, including the Balearic and the Canary Islands.

Don’t be fooled by the statement that the government backs the hotel chain. All efforts seem to be dedicated to provide luxurious comfort and personalized service. The menus can be extensive with a definite emphasis on regional recipes, including wine and local products, using modern techniques and gourmet presentation.

There are more than 20 routes associated with the hotel chain, whether your interests are the wine or olive oil territories, Andalusia or tracing Don Quixote’s footsteps. However, you can also make your own by visiting the website www.paradores.es

So I visited Almagro, a historical charming town, some 130 miles south of Madrid, in the middle of La Mancha. A piece of land graced by the windmills and Miguel de Cervantes’ hero Don Quixote de La Mancha (1605), later the inspiration for Dale Wasserman's musical Man of La Mancha.

Almagro’s parador, formerly The San Francisco Convent, dates from the 16th century and holds an art collection. Fourteen patios enhance this edification with plenty of long corridors that look out the inner courts. A walk down the halls can’t be any more pleasant than admiring the magnificent oil paintings hanging on the walls you usually expect to see in museums.

Then you find the rooms. Although the former nuns’ cells have been restored to accommodate all the comfort and electrical goodies they never imagined and we expect in today’s world (ample bathrooms and showers, television, telephone and even wireless Internet), they preserve their character of peace and solemnity. Old furniture, including hand-carved armoires, tables and trunks; as well as tile motifs and big black iron hardware on the doors make us travel back in time and actually visualize the 400 years ago occupants. An on-going environment you find in every single parador. Even the restaurant resembles the original dining room with tall white-painted walls and very dark brown wooden beams, where you find lunch or dinner a la carte, and plenty of home baked bread, local cheeses and Spanish ratatouille “pisto manchego” for breakfast.

A five-minutes walk through a quiet neighborhood will take you to Plaza Mayor, a medieval square that host several bars and restaurants, that even now remains the center of town life. Every July, the International Festival of Classical Theatre is held and plays take place at the Corral de Comedias, just as they did 400 years ago.

Ubeda

A few miles southeast of Almagro you will find Andalusia. Home of Ubeda, Carmona and Cordoba. Three destinations located in different surroundings that offer three different experiences.

Ubeda’s parador seems to be the same as the 16th century Renaissance palace, even though some of the furniture located in the central court could be a discussion topic. Comfortable bedrooms dressed up with long-time ago king size beds and tall dressers stand out for the height of their ceilings. Here again you find the 21st century comfort and restaurant exclusive service, where buffet breakfast, lunch and gourmet dinner with a Mediterranean flair are served.

Right next to the main entrance a beautiful sample of the Spanish Renaissance dominates the eastern side of the old square. The Sacred chapel of El Salvador, built originally as a familiar pantheon by a very wealthy aristocrat. Occupied and seriously damaged by the left-wing army during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), then restored by private and public contributions.

Only 6.5 miles away from Ubeda you will see Baeza, another charming town full of history and palaces. Both located in the middle of a sea of olive trees that doesn’t seem to end as you travel by. They produce most of the tasty oil that makes the nation lead the world in this field.

Cordoba is well known for the impressive architectural reminders of Roman and Moorish times. The Mezquita, or The Mosque, among them, which is enormous, dates back to 784 and was partially converted to a Cathedral after the Reconquest by the Christians.

However, this city´s parador is not enclosed by an old bulding or palace, but a modern construction built on a hill surrounded by vegetation and overlooking the legendary city of the caliphs. Furnishings, drapes, and carpets reflect a quietly comfortable atmosphere. Save some time for the dining room and try “salmorejo cordobés” (cold vegetable soup), “gazpacho blanco de almendras” (cold almond soup) and steak in green pepper sauce. All dishes made by a First Class chef and served in style.

Carmona´s parador is 67 miles from Cordoba and 18 from Seville. This one is accommodated in a 14th century Arabic fortress resting on a bluff looking out the plains that later became one of King Pedro’s castles. The king of Castile from 1350 to 1369, sometimes called the Cruel (el Cruel) or the Lawful (el Justiciero), whom people say he had an eye for the ladies.

While staying in Carmona, time must be found to walk around the walled-city and look at the palaces, mansions, convents and churches. Look for the Roman and Moorish gate right next to the tourist office.

Zafra

Zafra is an interesting town and it is part of the famous Ruta de Plata, the “silver route”, built by the Romans. The hotel is a 15th century palace set in the old part of town and built by the Dukes of Feria, one of Spain's most influential families of nobles. It has the feeling of the typical medieval castle with two huge tall towers at the main entrance.

No doubt the main attractions in Merida are the Roman museum, theatre and amphitheatre. Can you imagine fourteen thousand people shouting, watching the beasts and the gladiators fighting? That’s exactly what I visualized. This parador conserves the structure of the former 18th century convent, built on the remains of a Roman temple.

Trujillo was home to some of Spain's most famous explorers of the New World. Francisco Pizarro (1471 – 1541) among them. He conquered the Inca Empire and founded Lima, the capital city of Peru.

A 16th century convent that is still a peaceful place to stay will charm guests in Trujillo. However, don’t be surprised by the challenge of how to get to the hotel. Pay close attention to the signs or maybe ask the locals. Trujillo old section is full of winding and narrow roads that can take you to the other side.

However, even if you get lost you will be gratified when you try their menu. Let’s mention the tomato soup with cumin, lamb chops "corregidor" style, and the special of the house, cheese ice cream. All of them offered in fancy style class.