"Ljubljana: Small is Beautiful" a Ljubljana Travel Page by mightywease

With the cobblestone streets of the old town overlooked by a castle on top of a wooded hill Ljubljana could almost be the Ruritania of Anthony Hopes PRISONER OF ZENDA! In fact it is a vibrant, forward-looking city full of culture, history and with a lively nightlife.

Slovenia gained its independence in 1991 having been part of Yugoslavia, the Habsburg Empire and, for a time in the early 19th Century, one of Napoleons Illyrian Provinces, of which Ljubljana was the capital. This has helped to produce a rich and varied cultural history. In Ljubljana you can see examples of, for instance, Baroque and Secessionist (Art Nouveau) architecture. The city is home to a number of theatres and galleries, including the National Drama Theatre, where the Slovene National Theatre is based, the Opera House, which stages both opera and ballet performances and the National Gallery, which contains paintings by both Slovene and other European artists

Entertainment can also be found in the bars and cafes that line the banks of the Lubljanica River. In Spring and Summer sitting in the shade of a weeping willow as dusk falls and the lights of the old town start to flicker on the riverss surface while you enjoy a glass of Slovenian wine or Union beer could be used as a definition for the words relaxation and contentment!

As capital of Slovenia Ljubljana qualifies as a big city but with its compact city centre, welcoming cafes and central market it retains a pleasant, intimate small town feel

Because of it's small size a short break of 3 or 4 days will allow ample time to explore the Ljubljana, although its such a lovely place that you may wish you were staying longer. This small scale also means that walking itineraries are the best way to explore the sights. The Ljubljanica River winds through the centre of the city and, as well as giving the opportunity for a pleasant stroll along its embankments, it acts as a useful orientation guide
On the east side of the river a walk can take you from Vodnikov trg (square), where the stalls of the central market spread out selling fruit, vegetables, flowers and household goods, past St. Nicholas Church, Ljubljana's Cathedral with its fantastic sculptured bronze doors and on into the centre of the old town. Mestni trg contains the Magistrat (Town Hall), with its pretty internal courtyards, and the Baroque Robba Fountain in front of it. Mestni trg leads into Stari trg, more of a street than a square, where attractive houses overlook the narrow, cobbled street and they, in turn, are overlooked by the castle. Stari trg and Levstikov trg also include a number of lovely cafes where, in summer, you can sit outside and watch pedestrian and cyclists pass by. From Gorni trg you can start the walk up the tree-shaded path to the castle. From the castle tower the views over the red-roofs of the city and off towards the mountains in the distance are fantastic
On the west side of the river Presernov trg is a good focal point, containing the attractive Franciscan Church with its distinctive reddish facade. From here you can walk up Miklosiceva Cesta and past the Co-operative Bank with its brightly painted geometric patterns or walk along Wolfova Ulica to the Kongresni trg (Congress Square) and the baroque Ursuline Church of the Holy Trinity.
The museum area contains The Opera House, National Gallery, National Museum and the Museum of Modern Arts. From here you can easily reach Tivoli Park, a lovely place for a summer picnic. Summer is also the time when the open-air theatre at Krizanke hosts many events connected to the International Summer Festival.
Further along the west bank of the Ljubljanica are the quiet suburbs of Krakovo and Trnovo, separated by the pleasant Gradascica canal. Although very near to the city centre these suburbs have quite a different feel. The small two story houses that line some of the streets and the greenery of the allotments and gardens seem closer to country than urban living.
However that, to me, is the quintessence and the charm of Ljubljana, a cosmopolitan city but with the relaxed feel of a neighbourly market town.