"The Paris of the Mediterranean" Athens by amsterdam_vallon

Athens Travel Guide: 4,403 reviews and 10,114 photos

Introduction

Athens, despite its history as the "Cradle of Western Civilization", is something of an acquired taste. At first glance it is exceedingly ugly, sprawled over the arid hills of Attica, its traffic in Gordian knots, its air the foulest in Western Europe. Such first impressions do not last long. What Athens lacks in charm and beauty, it compensates for with character, attitude, humor, and a zest for life that makes the other capitals of Europe seem dull. The mild climate enables the city's exuberant art scene and nightlife to exist outdoors; the Greeks invented theater and built their magnificent outdoor amphitheaters in Athens.

Democracy--invented in Athens in the sixth century B.C.--along with victories over the invading Persians led to the city's golden age, when Athens' wealth and might attracted talent from around the Greek world. The plays of Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, and Aristophanes premiered in its theaters; Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle changed the history of philosophy in their academies; Praxiteles and Phidias revolutionized art and architecture. Their achievements were embodied in the majestic Parthenon, which today rises serenely over the bustle of the city below.

Under the Romans, Athens began to decline, and by the time the power in the Mediterranean had shifted to Constantinople, Athens was a mere backwater, occupied by Crusaders from Europe, and then by the Ottoman Turks. By the time Athens became the capital of independent Greece in 1834, it had dwindled to a picturesque village of 200 souls clinging to the slopes of the Acropolis.

Modern Athens, however, is a prosperous place, a metropolis that is home to four million--almost half of the country's population. It remains a collage of history. On the hill under the Acropolis you'll find the old village called the Plaka, now the tourist center of Athens, where shops and restaurants stand elbow-to-elbow with ancient ruins and Byzantine churches. To give it the dignity of a capital, the first kings of Greece laid out wide boulevards and squares and built stately neoclassical buildings that are still on view today.

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Orientation

The city is bounded on three sides by Mt Parnitha, Mt Pendeli and Mt Hymettos. Within Athens there are no less than eight hills, of which the Acropolis and Lykavittos are the most prominent. The hills provide a peaceful respite from the clamour of the city, and offer stunning views to the glistening waters of the Saronic Gulf - the city's boundary on the south side. The streets of Athens (clearly signposted in Greek and English) now meld imperceptibly into Piraeus, the city's port.

Just about everything of interest to the traveller is within a small area surrounding Plateia Syntagmatos (Syntagma Square). This area is bounded by the districts of Plaka to the south, Monastiraki to the west, Kolonaki to the east and Omonia to the north.

Plateia Syntagmatos is dominated by the old Royal Palace and is the beating heart of the business district, with luxury hotels, banks and airline offices. Plaka, nestled below the Acropolis, is the old Turkish quarter and virtually all that existed when Athens was declared the capital of independent Greece. Though Plaka is packed with tourists in high season, it's also one of the prettiest and most atmospheric areas of the city. Monastiraki is the market district and a fascinating part of town to wander. Psiri, nearby, is brimming with stylish cafes and bars and makes a great place to stop for a spot of lunch. Kolonaki, a classy residential area tucked in under Lykavittos Hill, is full of trendy boutiques, art galleries and cafes. Omonia, a grimy zone known for its pickpockets and prostitutes, is an important transport hub, especially for buses. It's being cleaned up as part of the 2004 Olympic preparations.

Taken from the Lonely Planet website

My trip to athens

I've stay three day in the greek capital. Those three days was a very good experience. In athens, you can see the east meeting the west.

I great place to discover...for the Acropolis, the churches, the locals, the food!!!

Pros and Cons
  • Pros:Everything that Athens have to offer
  • Cons:The bus full of tourists!! But are we all tourist??
  • In a nutshell:"Cradle of Western Civilization"
  • Last visit to Athens: Nov 2003
  • Intro Updated Jan 2, 2004
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Comments (2)

  • Aug 8, 2007 at 9:56 PM

    Actually there is a changing of the guards every four hours!And I say every four hours!...

  • Mar 15, 2004 at 4:00 PM

    The name of the little church under that big building is called Agia Dynamis. I lived on that street - Odos Pentelis 4, in the year 1944-1945, with my beloved brother and his friends Lampis Papadopoulos and Mikis Theodorakis. Nick-at-Nite.

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