"There & Back, The Prodigal Daughter Has... " a New Orleans Travel Page by aphrodyte

In my youth and minus one little stinker, I have been very fortunate to cavort around New Orleans' French Quarter prior to our 2003 visit. (Back then it was mostly in a drunken stupor and sometimes during Mardi Gras!)

It was a pleasant surprise that a few things have changed...but not enough to mar the wonderful and interesting memories of my past decadence.

I have also found that my goals for this trip vastly differ from before. Now don't get me wrong...I love my hurricanes from Pat O' just like the next fellow...but more importantly...I have found in my research much more than just drinking all night, stumbling and groping around until 5am, and doing it again around 3pm, and DAMMIT where did I put my bra!

Anyway, we did wander a bit from the French Quarter into the Garden District for some food and Old Algiers for Mardi Gras World. This trip wound up centering on the historical aspect of New Orleans which I will be talking about and the Ghost Tour and Haunts of New Orleans and why it is THE most haunted city in the world. I'll also be talking about that later in my web pages.

And of course, THE FOOD! I can't mention New Orleans without mentioning the exquisite food. Hot beignets, food vendors, prailines, saltwater taffy, fresh seafood, jambalaya, crawfish etouffee and did I mention beignets yet???.

Yes...we had an awesome time in New Orleans and look forward to our next one....Hopefully during Mardi Gras!

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St. Louis Cathedral in front of Jackson Square

The History...The Glory...The Decadence!

The main thing to remember about the French Quarter is that this area is authentic, not a reproduction of history. Many of the buildings found here date back to the 1700's. There are more than 35,000 buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places, more than any other U.S. city and many of these locations are in the French Quarter and most of the architecture is Spanish, not French.

Crazy...isn't it?...well let me explain.

Even after 45 years of French rule, New Orleans was not really a "city" until well into the Spanish period that began in 1762 and ended in 1800. Most of the French wooden buildings were destroyed by the devastating fire of 1788. It is not known how the fire was caused in 1788, but over half of the buildings in the fledgling city were destroyed partly due to the building materials, close proximity of the structures, and the nearly non-existant fire brigade.

The Spanish had hardly rebuilt the city, when a series of three hurricanes and another fire all in 1794, destroyed the few buildings that had escaped the 1788 disaster, as well as most of the new ones.

Learning from the first fire, they set up a more structured fire brigade and alarm system by the use of the church bells. It is interesting to note that the second fire was proported to be caused by lit candles from an alter. Whether the candles fell or set nearby curtains ablaze is not certain. However, the day that the fire struck it was Good Friday. Now, in traditional spanish culture/religion all the church bells were muffled in recognition of this holiday. So with very little warning, the second fire hit with just as much force as the first. As a result, the architecture of the Vieux Carre is Spanish, not French, and most of the existing structures date from 1795 or after. It was also an overall consensus to use brick, mortar and iron instead of wood for the main construction of the buildings.

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So what's YOUR way of eating a beignet?

Ahhhh....Such Indulgences Should Be Illegal!

"New Orleans food is as delicious as the less criminal forms of sin."

Mark Twain (1884)

I can't talk about New Orleans without talking about the food and food jargon. Where should I start? The first time I actually ate red beans and rice and seafood jambalaya, MY MOUTH WAS ON FIRE! I nearly ran my waiter ragged with constant requests for water that I finally just told him to leave the whole pitcher on the table. (Then I made bee lines to the restroom in between bites.)

So why didn't I just stop eating? Well...daaarrrrlling...when food is this good, you savor it!

Creole and Cajun food has a long history....it has been influenced throughout the years by many cultures. It is interesting to note that the Ursuline Sisters from France introduced French cooking to New Orleans. Sister Xavier Herbert of their order was the first woman pharmacist in the country, and taught settlers the benefits of using herbs in their cooking. When the Spanish began to settle in New Orleans, they incorporated pepper and tomatos...the beginnings of "Shrimp Creole!" Refugees from the West Indies, Sicilians and Indians have all been influential in the evolution.

The difference between Creole and Cajun cooking also lies in the heirarchy of the times. Many Creoles were rich planters and their kitchens aspired to grande cuisine. Their recipes came from France or Spain as did their chefs. By using classic French techniques with local foodstuffs. Cajuns, were a tough people used to living under strenuous conditions. They tended to serve strong country food prepared from locally available ingredients. It was pungent, peppery and practical since it was all cooked in a single pot. Despite the differences in each cuisine, there are many common ingredients such as rice, crab, river shrimp, lake shrimp, oysters, crawfish, freshwater and saltwater fish, wild game, squirrels, frogs, turtles, pork, beans, tomatoes, okra, yams, pecans, oranges, and liquers.