Street Barber, Hanoi
The Vietnamese capital of Hanoi was off limits to travellers for decades after the communist revolution and only recently has it opened itself up to the world. Visitors will discover a thriving urban metropolis with 3 million inhabitants and hundreds of years of history. Hanoi's old quarter has changed little since the French colonial days and is a great place to just wander and soak in the local culture. Many grand buildings still remain from the French era, such as the elegant opera house and luxurious Hotel Metropole. The civic district contains many impressive museums and monuments, most notably the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh, inside which you will find his perserved body on display. There is great shopping and food to be had everywhere you look, and the locals are friendly and helpful. At times the crowds, traffic, and general chaos can become overwhelming, but that's all part of the experience. Hanoi is a truly wonderful city.
Directions: Please visit my Hanoi page for more activities and tips for this city.
Tomb of Emperor Minh Mang
Emperor Minh Mang ruled under the Nguyen Dynasty from 1820 until his death in 1840. His tomb was constructed between 1840 and 1843 and completed by his successor, Emperor Thieu Tri. The tomb complex is impressively large and peaceful, with serene man-made lakes, gardens, and elegant pagodas. The entrance is guarded by several life-size stone guards, horses, and elephants. The tomb itself lies inside a large dirt mound but cannot be entered.
Directions: 12km outside Hue along Perfume River. Boats can easily be chartered in Hue to take you on a scenic 90 minute cruise to the tomb.
Monument at Truong Son Cemetery
This massive 106 hectare cemetery contains the graves of over 10,000 Vietnamese soldiers who died while fighting for North Vietnam during the war for independence. It also contains several large statues and reliefs depicting heroic NVA soldiers. The cemetery hosts several large memorial services every year and is an important pilgrimage point for Vietnamese, Lao, and even American verterans alike.
Directions: Gio Linh District, Quang Tri Province, south of Dong Ha
Remains of Church at Quang Tri
Traveling north from Hue to the DMZ near the city of Dong Ha, we stopped at the war-torn remains of a small Christian church. One of the few pre-war structures remaining in this region, the church is riddled with thousands of bullet holes and was obviously the scene of some intense battles. It was a very disturbing place to visit.
Using our guide as a translator, we asked a local residnet who lived adjacent to the church why no one had torn it down yet, and he replied that it was hallowed ground as a result of all the lives lost there and tearing it down would anger their spirits. So it remains standing today, although just barely, as a testament to the indiscriminate destruction of the war.
Directions: Quang Tri, vicinity of DMZ and Dong Ha along main north-south highway
Original bridge across North/South border
In May 1954, after the defeat of the French at Dien Bien Phu during the First Indochina War, a agreement was reached at the Geneva Conference between the French and Vietnamese, Laotians, and Cambodians to create a cease-fire line along the 17th parallel, approximately along the Ben Hai River from the sea to the Vietnam-Laos border. Extending for 5km on either side of the demarcation line was a demilitarized zone (DMZ). This temporary arrangement was meant to be resolved by the 1956 national elections, but they never took place, resulting in Vietnam being split into two separate states, the North and the South. When the Americans entered Vietnam in the 60s, the DMZ became the front line in what Vietnam now refers to as "the American War". This small strip of land in central Vietnam saw some of the heaviest fighting of that war.
Today, the DMZ is peaceful, but there are still many signs of the war that once raged there. For the most part, the land is still bare and unihabited, and you can still spot the occasional bomb crater. The accompanying photo is of the original bridge that spans the Ben Hai river linking what was once North Vietnam with South Vietnam. There is a monument on the north side of the bridge commemorating to the NVA's victory. The modern bridge of Vietnam's main north/south highway can been seen just to the right.
Directions: north of Hue/Dong Ha along main north-south highway
Bridge over Perfume River, Hue
The city of Hue is the ancient imperial capital of Vietnam and still recoginzed today as the cultural capital of the country. From the magnificent Forbidden Purple City, Vietnam's emperors ruled their land and developed sophisticated styles of art, music, and cuisine for which the country is still famous today. These emperors also constructed grand tombs in the vicinity, which are big tourist draws today. During the American War, Hue's close proximity to the DMZ led to it being the scene of some of the most intense bombing and street to street fighting of the conflict. Sadly, many historical buildings were reduced to rubble during this time.
Modern Hue is large and vibrant city. The people are warm and the atmosphere is much more relaxed than in either Hanoi or HCMC. There are many great cafes, and taking a stroll along the Perfume River is quite pleasant.
Directions: Central Vietnam
Website: http://www.vietnamtourism.com/Hue/e_pages/e_hue.htm
Lanern Frames, Hoi An
Hoi An is a designated UNESCO World Heritage City and is one of the best preserved ancient cities in Vietnam. Around the 16th century, Hoi An was a major regional port of trade and as such contained a large Chinese population, giving the city a distinctively Chinese look. The biggest attraction in Hoi An is simply wandering the narrow streets of the old city, which have retained much of their old world character and charm.
Hoi An is a major stop on the group tourist route, and the streets are filled with restaurants and souvenir shops to cater to them all. The city also has an amazing number of tailors who offer their skilled services at some of the cheapest prices that you will find anywhere in the world.
Directions: 30 km south of Da Nang
Entrance to Huyen Khong Cave
Ngu Hanh Son, more commonly known as the Marble Mountains, consists of five separate mountains, each named to represent one of the five elements. Thuy Son (water) is particularly interesting as you can climb to the top using steps carved into the mountain. At the top are two pagodas, Linh Ung Pagoda and Tam Thai Pagoda, and Huyen Khong Cave, inside which are several large religious sculptures carved directly in the rock. From up here you can also look out into the South China Sea. In Dong Hai village at the base of Thuy Son are many small workshops that carve the stone from the mountains to produce sculptures of all shapes and sizes, and if you are in a tour group then you will undoubtedly stop at one of them.
Directions: Hoa Hai commune, Hoa Vang district, 10 km north of Da Nang
Casting Nets at Non Nuoc Beach
Non Nuoc Beach along the coast north of Da Nang is a pristine stretch of white sand beach lying at the foot of the Marble mountains. But the real interest in this beach lies in its famous past. During the American war, it came to be known as China Beach and was a premier R 'n R retreat for thousands of American GIs. Later, China Beach spawned a popular TV show of the same name in the US.
Today, local tourism is cashing in on the beach's famous past and a scattering of resorts and restaurants can be found along the beach, along with plenty of souvenir hawkers. Despite the hype, the fact still remains that this is one of the finest beaches in Vietnam.
Directions: just north of Da Nang city, beside the Marble mountains
Descending the Vinh Moc Tunnels
Just north of the old DMZ lies the village of Vinh Moc, where during the American War an entire underground village was dug in order to avoid the American bombardment above ground. The tunnel network stretches a staggering 2km in total length with three different levels, the first at 13m below ground, the second at 15m, and the third at 23m. The tunnels took two years to dig out and are linked to the sea by seven exits and nearby hills by another six. The underground village was home to 94 families and includes a meeting hall, maternity ward, operating room, food stores, toilets, water wells, kitchens, and dormitories. As many as 17 children were born in these tunnels between 1967 and 1968.
Today, the tunnels attract many visitors and are especially popular with American war veterans. There is an interesting visitor's center at the site with many historical photos of the tunnels and its inhabitants. Visitors can then descend into the tunnels themselves, which have been reinforced and lighted for safety but have not been widened or otherwise altered in any way. Incredibly fascinating but definitely not for the claustrophobic.
Directions: Just north of the old North/South Vietnam border, 13 km east of the national Highway 1A
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