Leaving Lost Belongings in an Obvious Place and other Paris, France Local Custom Tips

So I was surfing around David Lebowitz' wonderful food blog, http://www.davidlebovitz.com, when I came across an item he wrote titled Métro Hands...and Cheeks. As is his wont, the article of the day veered from his germaphobic topic regarding the dreaded "Métro hands" to losing one of his favorite gloves to the wonderful Parisian (nay, perhaps French or even European!) habit of placing lost items where they might be found.

This would NEVER happen in the US, at least I've never seen it happen, not even in the midwest (where I now live) where good courtesy is taken for granted. Nor does it happen in the south (where I grew up) where excellent manners are considered de rigueur.

Monsieur Lebowitz, an American now residing in Paris (lucky dog!), had lost one of his favorite gloves. Knowing the above-named French habit, he went out in search of the lost item only to discover it in his very own elevator cleverly tucked away in the hand rail (read the blog, it's really funny)!

Anywho, I'd read the blog a week prior to my latest sojourn to the City of Light. While traipsing around in Montmartre this past November, *I* came across a hapless glove myself (somewhere along rue Lepic between Place Jean-Pierre Baptiste and rue d'Orchampt)! Naturally, I had to take a photo just for the edification of you good VT folk.

In any case, in the war of French politesse v. American manners, I think the French have one up on us. I've vowed to continue this nice practice here at home but I'm not sure if it'll ever become popular. Of course, I'll never know the outcome of these Samaritan acts but it certainly won't hurt to try!!

Photo: November 2007

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Throughout Paris you'll find memorials to the Jewish chilren who were shipped off to the death camps, many to never return home. Heart-wrenching statements that the City of Paris has only in the past few years deemed fit to erect.

The first photo was taken at the Centre Israélite de Montmartre at 27, rue du Chevalier de la Barre, on a street leading east down a flight of stairs behind Sacré-Coeur. The sign may be translated as:
79 Jewish children lodged in this establishment until the bombardment of April 20, 1944 were then installed at 70, avenue Secrétan were arrested by the gestapo on July 21, 1944 and sent off to Auschwitz where 71 of them were assassinated.
Which means that only 8 of them returned home.

The second photo shown is a Jewish Memorial located at 16, rue Julien Lacroix in Belleville in the 20th arrondissement practically next door to Eglise St-Julien-le-Croix (not too far from Père Lachaise cemetery). It reads:
In memory of the pupils of this school who were deported between 1942 and 1944 because they had been born Jewish, innocent victims of the barbaric nazis with the active complicity of the Vichy government. They were exterminated in the death camps.

What a powerful statement.

Photos: February 2006 & November 2007

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During my 2nd trip to Paris, my friend Kristin & I had gone out one Friday night so that Kristin could find a payphone to call her fiancée. We were somewhere in the 7th arrondissement, when all of a sudden policemen on rollerbladers came gliding past, then WHOOSH! a whole BUNCH of roller bladers swept by! We stood there and watched the whole procession; didn't really have a choice since we couldn't cross the street to get back to our hotel. It must've taken about a half hour for the whole group to troop past. And at the end, of course, were more policemen watching the stragglers.

And apparently, they do the same thing on Sundays during the day. It's supposed to be a more leisurely roll with families out roller blading & pushing babies & young children in strollers. I had walked past Nôtre Dame, turned right and saw a whole SLEW of rollerbladers. I’d seen the Friday night rollerbladers but wasn’t sure if this was the same so I asked some English ladies and they said they didn't know. We saw some people pushing kids in prams in that crowd and we decided we probably would never do that – might put the children in danger. Then one of the ladies laughed and said she wouldn't put herself in danger, *period!*, by rollerblading. It was quite an amazing site!

Also, if you're going to do the Friday night rollerblading you need to understand that you must be a very good rollerblader; if you fall behind the police will put you out of the group. But the Sunday rollerbladers are a lot more relaxed so if you're a fairly decent rollerblader than this would be the event for you.

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Phone: 01 45 87 47 44
Website: http://www.pari-roller.com/

This tip is in an effort to dispel the myth of the "rude French people". Sure, there's bound to be a rude Parisian or two out there - every culture has them, but for the most part I found the French to be extremely kind, helpful, curious about our culture, & very polite.

One of the kindest things that ever happened to me was when I got lost on the RER. I took the WRONG direction! About the time we pulled into the Stade de France stop was when I noticed. I got out looking about me in a very confused fashion. Out on the platform was a lovely French gentleman who could barely speak English yet he helped me get to the other side. I was having trouble conveying to him what went wrong so eventually I just pointed to the other side. He took my hand, walked me down the stairs took me to the other side & pointed me the way. Very kind gentleman & since then I've had a difficult time understanding this stupid stereotype of the rude French people. It's been my experience that they are very kind & willing to help and are especially helpful when I've made the attempt to communicate in their language!

During my trip in 2003, I was doing my best to use my (limited) French. I went to Nectarine, used French to order cafe, s'il vous plait, use the right gestures to get the check (l'addition, s'il vous plait). As I went to pay the bill, a young man told me I was welcome to come back any time in French, which tickled me.

Different folks moved out of the way when I stopped for a photo, others posed most graciously when asked, others complimented me on my efforts to speak French. Another lady saw me taking a photo of a Smart car in the Marais. She discerned I must be American to take a photo of such a silly subject. She inquired "American?" using the English pronunciation. I replied, "Oui, je suis Americain - Etats Unis" using very limited French. She then said "Bravo, l'Americain" at my feeble efforts.

Photos: Feb 06

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Living in Cincinnati where there's not a huge amalgamation of the population has me curious about other cultures. I suppose if I lived in NYC I'd be immune to such intense fascination.

In any case, I was out one Sunday morning leaving the Marais (which is the historical center for Jewish population in Paris) heading to the Île St Louis. While I was crossing the Pont Louis Philippe, I noticed a small group of Hasidic Jews ahead of me, their Hasidism (or Chasidism) indicated by their hats, the curls down the sides of their faces & their traditional garb. I didn't want to embarrass them so I hung back a little & took a photo as it was just thrilling to see them - so very cool.

In college I took a sociology class called The Community which focused on unusual groups such as the Amish, the Hutterites, the Gypsies (Rom), the Shakers, the Mormons, the COG (Children of God). Since then, I've loved reading about unique cultures & religions. This was the first time I'd seen Hasidim in person. I hope I was not rude in taking a photo. But if any Hasidic Jews are out there reading this please be assured it was only done out of my love for different cultures and my enthrallment with anything new & out of the ordinary (from my usual spectrum of experiences).

The (badly-executed) photograph I share with you!

Photo: April 2003

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Website: http://www.jewishmuseum.net/Permanent/Hasidic_Jews.htm

While standing in line at Nôtre Dame Easter 2003, waiting for the church to open up for the Pâques mass, I turned around to strike up a conversation with a couple from Atlanta; when I turned around a French man had ducked in front of me! I tried to explain to him that he had skipped line but apparently he didn’t understand the concept.

For the 1st time of this entire trip I didn’t have the ability to convey my meaning, not even thru hand gestures. Presently, he moved off to the side to carry on a conversation with another person so I moved on up to claim my spot RIGHT NEXT TO THE GATE (sucker). The Atlanta couple & I shared a moment of bemused eye rolling.

Perhaps it's true what they say about the fundamental difference between the English & the French: the former know how to queue up in line and the latter don't! Now I don't wish to further any stereotypes but I do think it was funny and it was definitely an eye-opening cultural experience.

So the best thing to do is stake your claim on your spot but if someone happens to move ahead of you just chalk it up to cultural differences, try not to be offended, laugh it off. You are here to have a good time, attitude is everything and a good one will carry you far. It is France after all - c'est la vie!

Address: 6, Place du Parvis, Ile de la Cité, 75004 PARIS (Ile de la Cité - you can't miss it - it's at the historical center of Paris!)

Photo: March 2001

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Phone: +33-1-42.34.56.10
Website: http://www.cathedraledeparis.com/EN/0.asp
Other Contact: +33-1-40.51.70.98

The Place des Vosges in the Marais is a wonderful place to catch the Parisians in non-posing action. Amid the beautiful square are little parcs where the locals bring their bébés to play.

As I passed thru one day, I saw a young, chic maman trying to get her child to slide down a 2-foot 30º-angle slide and watched a little 3- or 4-year old expertly kicking around a soccer ball.

This is also a beautiful place to stroll when the hubbub of the Marais wears you down. Listen to the playful rush of the fountain as you admire the lovely apricot glow of the ancient buildings surrounding you.

Then stop off for un café at one of the sidewalk terrasse cafés (Ma Bourgogne or Nectarine) surrounding the square; a prime opportunity to people-watch and not nearly as touristy as the Champs-Elysées or St-Germain-des-Près.

Nearby is the Maison de Victor Hugo.

Photos: Feb 2006

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Website: http://www.marais.biz/nature/jardins/placedesvosges.htm

Eat bread like a Parisian
Parisians LOVE bread. You may think it stereotypical for them to be portrayed carrying a baguette munching it while walking thru the streets but this image of them still holds true. I snapped a photo of a Parisian in the Cité Florale area of the 13th arrondissement (as typical a Parisian area as you can find) carrying a baguette of bread home.

Try Poilâne’s (Lionel) at 8 rue du Cherche-Midi (a veritable shrine to bread) for a small round of their trademark sourdough (my favorite is with walnuts). While there buy one of their lovely signature linen bags either for yourself (to tote future bread) or for a friend; the emblem "Poilâne" is embroidered simply & elegantly on the side.

Photos: November 2007 & April 2003

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Phone: 01 45 48 42 59
Website: http://www.poilane.fr/
Other Contact: E-mail: info@poilane.fr

Parisians take their food VERY SERIOUSLY! It's almost like a religion. Recently they pared down their work week from 40 hours to 35 and one of the reasons, I'm certain, is to enjoy those long lingering lunches with family & friends and to get home earlier so that they can linger over their dinners as well.

When dining in a nice bistro or brasserie, especially if it's a place with a fine reputation, expect to spend at least 1-1/2 hours to 3 hours for lunch and even longer for dinner. They want you to enjoy the food, to savor, have time to digest it, drink in the surroundings, engage in discussion with people at the next table. In fact, a great many restaurants are open for only several hours for lunch, they close, then open up again later for dinner!

People who rush through a meal are looked at rather askance! Why you haven't had a chance to even taste the food! It's practically an insult to rush through a meal.

If you want something quick yet Parisian, your best bet is to go to a café (although these are great places to linger over, too). You can stop in a café, order just an omelette, or quiche, or salade, crêpe, drink a quick cafê and be off to the next musée or jardin. For even quicker (and cheaper) service, stand at the comptoir (bar). It's quick, stand-up service.

I have fond memories of Le Vieux Bistro - I had a wonderful time there, spent almost 3 hours - I will definitely go back there!

Please click on the photo at left to view the full ménu!

Photo: April 2003

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Lo, the shiny brass comptoir! In any bar in Paris it is the cheapest place to get a drink. Go to the bar, order a drink, pay cheaper & drink it there. Prices go a bit higher if you go to a table & even higher on le terrasse, which affords fab people-watching.

This one is located at Tabac le Marly - 252 rue de Rivoli.

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