View from the top of the Eiffel Tower and other Paris, France Tourist Trap Tips

La Tour Eiffel

I think going to the top of the Eiffel Tower, day or night, is just an overrated experience. I won't quote Oscar Wilde or Guy de Maupassant but I will say that there’s not much of a view from the top. At night there's only the myriad pinpoints of light (see attached photo). Although you will be able to make out the Arc de Triomphe hardly anything else is discernable. During the day Paris tends to be hazy so you don't see much then either. But, again, you will be able to make out the Arc de Triomphe (and the Tour Montparnasse ~ that's a hint for you). ;)

Sandwiches, bagels, youart, and the like may be purchased from the Mezzanine level. I had a pretty decent jambon et gruyere on baguette from here. Also, there is a post office on this floor where one may send postcards complete with a cancellation stamp indicating it was mailed from the Eiffel Tower!

Does not accept Carte Musées et Monuments.

Photo: April 2003

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At Least Do This: Well, OF COURSE, you want to go here! It IS Paris, after all, and the Eiffel Tower IS her symbol, and a very beautiful one at that. You have to go to the top at least once. So here's my suggestion (but don't tell anyone else otherwise everyone'll be doing it):
Go to the top for the sunset. Admittedly, it'll be during the day and there will HUGE crowds and the wait will probably be about 2 hours BUT you will get to see all of Paris in her finest glow.

You can't come here for the sunrise; La Tour opens too late for that, so sunset will have to do. It'll be glorious, trust me.

OR just go to the 1st level - much better view, Paris' monuments are more discernable. I walked up the 328 steps this last trip in order to take photos of the sunset views. Now while that may seem like a lot (Notre Dame's tower & the Arc de Triomphe have more steps) there are plenty of places to pause for a breath & to take in the view. There's plenty of space for people to get around you so you don't need to feel as if you're holding up a line of people. There're also great signs about the tower detailing its history (French, German & English) so you can learn as you climb. Keep in mind, that entrance to the steps closes at dusk.

Otherwise, you might try one of the 2 restaurants: the ultra-expensive haute cuisine Jules Verne or the more affordable Altitude 95. I recommend reserving at least 2 months in advance for both.
Alternative: Alternatively, to catch a view of the E.T. and to get a crowd vibe (but without wading thru those horrid hawking vendors that refuse to get out of your face - tell them "no habla") go to the opposite side of the Seine, to the Trocadéro for a lovely glimpse of the lady girdled in iron. This is where the teens hang out, there are no hawkers (although there are some crossing the bridge) and the view is gorgeous.

THE OTHER THING you can do (this is for the adults now) is go to the top of La Tour Montparnasse and have a drink at Le Ciel de Paris (price of a drink takes care of the elevator fee). Now isn't that lovely? A drink in hand and a view of the Eiffel Tower. Sigh!

This triangular square ("tres charmant, tres pittoresque, tres tranquille") that I'd read so much about is cute but didn't exactly live up to my expectations. Lovely leafy trees, to be sure, but with no grass to temper the crunchy gravel/dirt/mud underneath.

The Surrealists loved the Place Dauphine due to its suggestive V-shaped area; they called it "le sexe de Paris"!

UPDATE: I've changed my mind now about Place Dauphine and can at last say I understand its charms. Check out the night photo!

Photos: April 2003 & Feb 2006

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At Least Do This: Nearby is the statue of the Vert Galant, King Henri IV.
Alternative: Square du Vert Galant (the tip of the Île de la Cité)
Ste-Chapelle
Nôtre-Dame

La Rotonde de la Muette
12, chaussée de la Muette, Paris 75016

Don't get sucked into eating at this restaurant in the 16th arrondissement just because it's convenient to the Marmottan! Although it's listed on one of my new favorite Paris websites, Philocafés, the food was just "okay" and I couldn't highly recommend it. I made the mistake of assuming this was like the historic café in Montparnasse, La Rotonde, which goes to show you where assumptions will take you.

I'm not one who expects to get chummy with her servers and expect an aloof yet professional staff but the personnel here was rather distant, both physically & personality-wise. Because it is near the Musée Marmottan, out in the 16th arrondissement so I thought it would be a safe bet, meaning out of the touristy sections, but I was wrong.

Out of three trips to Paris, this is only one of two places with which I've ever been dissatisfied.

For 31.50€ I had a Filet de "bœuf de Cantal" grillé (grilled fillet of beef from the Cantal region)(with frites) and a fromage blanc au miel (white cheese with honey) accompanied by a 1/2 carafe of the house wine. Not bad but for that price I've had better.

Photo Credit: Pages Jaunes

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At Least Do This: Go to the Musée Marmottan. Too bad they don't have a café on-site like the Louvre, the d'Orsay or the Centre Pompidou.
Alternative: It seems like all the good restaurants in the 16th are north of Palais de Chaillot so if you find yourself in this area pick up a sandwich (and some macarons) at Boulangerie Paul, located at 44 rue l'Annonciation, about a block or 2 past La Muette Métro station.

Or if you're on your way to la Tour Eiffel after this little jaunt then go to one of my fave small not-well-known restos, Restaurant Chez Ribe at 15 avenue Suffren, 5 minutes south from La Tour.

Photo: August 2005

Place du Tertre, the artists' square, crowds galore. This is the way it is during the daytime, but if you can get there early in the morning...

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At Least Do This: then perhaps you can watch the sunrise over Paris on the edges of the Place du Tertre, perhaps down rue Calvaire the street that is also stairs. Or come in the evening after the crowds have gone away and enjoy the Place then. It's especially peaceful at midnight

To avoid the grasping artist (and they're not all like that) the easiest thing to do is avoid eye contact. If they reach out for you move away.
Alternative: Montmartre is a large area, noted for it's "village-like" atmosphere. Go down the side streets, visit the area around Au Lapin Agile, Le Clos Montmartre, Cimetiere St-Vincent (rue des Saules & rue St-Vincent) or to the area to the east and down from Sacre-Coeur or even the area behind this monumental church for some peace & quiet.

Or hunt down the sites associated with Amelie to feel more of the Montmartrois flavor. Or shop at the rue Lepic street market!

Montmartre is so much more than Sacre-Coeur or the artists' square.

One of the photos features La Mere Catherine where the term "bistro" was first used for a place that prepared quick meals. The Russians who were occupying this area in the late 1800s would stomp on their tables shouting out "bistro, bistro" ("quickly, quickly") in order to get their food faster!

Photos: April 2003 & Feb 2006

Beware of the Gold Ring Scam in Paris. What happens is you'll be walking along, someone behind you will have picked up a "gold" ring and ask if it's yours. Of course, for being the bearer of such good tidings they expect a bit of cash. I've heard in some instances of a male scam artist accosting people IF he doesn't get any money (or what he considers to be enough money).

I met a guy while standing in the line at CDG who came across the ring scam 5 times in one day (all around the Louvre, he said).

I found that I was generally accosted when I was taking photos. All of a sudden I'd hear "bonne chance, BONNE CHANCE!"; I'd turn around and the spiel would start.

The trip before last was the first time it happened to me. I was walking across the Pont des Arts (near the Louvre, naturellement) taking a photo of the Institut de France. I ended buying a gold ring from the woman for 1.40 euro. She was disappointed but took the money (it was all I had on me since I was on the way to the ATM).

I saw THIS SAME WOMAN again near the Chapelle Expiatoire that same trip but showed her the ring I'd purchased from her; she didn't remember me.

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At Least Do This: THIS TRIP I saw her AGAIN near rue Jacob (and not too far away from the Louvre). I was taking photos and behind me heard "bonne chance"! She showed me the ring, I pulled out my camera to make like I was taking a photo of THE RING and got a photo of her holding it instead! AHA!! I'd kept the ring from last trip slung onto a strap on my purse and showed it to her saying I'd gotten it from her. She backed away and kept saying "non, non". I don't think she realized I captured a pic of her.

Saw another different lady in Montmartre (dark hair with dark gold streaks, young, pretty) at Place des Abbesses. I was touring with Michael Osman, he saw her out of the corner of his eye, grabbed the strap with the ring and showed it to her so she backed off. Tried to take a photo of her, too, but she moved away too fast and I only got the back of her as she melted into the crowd.

That 1.40 euro was money well spent! ;D

Photos: November 2007