Paris Nightlife Tips by BeatChick

Nightlife Spot: Café Marly

This trip I tried Café Marly for a nightlife experience but having heard all the hype about the place was a little underwhelmed (although many would consider it touristy since it is mentioned in many guidebooks). Café Marly, however, does have a nice view from the terrace and our waiter was funny and the vin chaud (hot spiced wine) was really nice that cold evening in November. But I think I would've been much happier at the tables down below, which afford much better views as it sits right on the spot where Io Ming Pei's pyramide sits.

Vin chaud or grog goes for 8€; water, soft drinks, tea, fruit juice and pressés go for 6€; cocktails go for 12€, wine runs between 28 - 390€ a bottle, champagne between 65€ for Lanson to 300€ for Krug - grande cuvée; meanwhile, viennoisserie (croissant, pain au chocolat or pain aux raisins) goes for a very reasonable 2€!

Unfortunately, Café Marly has no website of its own and there's scant information on the Louvre's website. However, just for you good VT folk I took the liberty of photographing the menus that sit at the entrance. Please look at the photos to see some menu prices for some drinks.

Open from 8am - 2am every day of the week.

Photos: November 2007

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Theme: Eating and Drinking
Dress Code: Although it's an upscale spot, my friend, Michael Osman, and I had no trouble feeling comfy in our dressy casual clothes.
Phone: 01 49 26 06 60
Address: 93, rue de Rivoli 75001
Directions: The Richelieu Wing (right-hand side as you face west to the Tuileries garden and Place de la Concorde) of the Louvre.
Website: http://www.louvre.fr

Nightlife Spot: Cafe le Nemours

Situated near the Comedie Francaise, just north of the Louvre, and just south of the gardens of the Palais Royal is this wonderful brasserie/salon de thé, Le Nemours.

A group of us joined up here for drinks just prior to our sojourn to Le Train Bleu. Set in beautiful surroundings of ultra-tall ceilings and rose decor, one can enjoy just a coffee or a vin chaud (hot wine) to take the chill off after a day of tromping around Paris. Outside is a terrace for excellent people watching against the backdrop of the quirky, colorful metro station, Palais Royal.

Apparently, because of its close proximity to the Comedie Francaise, you can see members of that theatre here after a performance!

Photos: February 2006 & November 2007

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Theme: Eating and Drinking
Dress Code: Casual
Phone: 01 42 61 34 14
Address: 2 Galerie de Nemours, 75001
Directions: Sitting on the Place Colette north of the Louvre off rue de Rivoli.

Nightlife Spot: Bar Hemingway

For Valentine's Day, my friends and I met up at the famous Bar Hemingway at the Ritz for very expensive drinks to toast the great American author, Ernest Hemingway! The bar is replete with Hemingway memorabilia, some actually his, some in homage to him, such as the typewriter that was the type he used but not actually one he'd ever written anything on.

The drinks were prohibitously expensive, 24 euros apiece, except for Lori's which was sans alcool as she was pregnant at the time (18 euros, mein gott!). Mine was a champagne cocktail made to order and was delish! A wonderful place to meet up for drinks but I wouldn't while away any time there - too expensive! And of course, we were given the de rigeur bar snacks of plenty of olives & nuts.

Reservations aren't required, just be the first to enter. I waited for a few minutes for my friends outside the bar in a beautifully appointed salon decked out in the signature Ritz blue.

Photos are inderdit inside the bar which is why my photos all have odd angles (hey, anything for the VT folk, right!?!?).

As it was Valentine's Day, Lori and I sashayed out of there with a beautiful long-stemmed red rose in hand! Nice (and it *almost* made up for the price of the drinks)!!

Photos: February 2006

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Theme: Eating and Drinking
Dress Code: Dressy - well, you have to compete with the prostitutes who frequent the place. ;)
Phone: 01 43 16 30 30
Address: 15, place Vendôme 75001
Directions: In the first arrondissement on the west side of Place Vendôme.
Website: http://www.ritzparis.com

Nightlife Spot: Dame Tartine Beaubourg

Dame Tartine is a famous wine bar in Paris where they serve a lovely variety of wine along with inexpensive tartines (open-faced sandwiches). I dined there the previous trip but this time opted to sit outside on the terrasse with its views of the Igor Stravinsky fountains, the throngs of people outside the Centre Pompidou, the evening street performers (they were popping to Michael Jackson) and some guys putting up a monstrous billboard on the side of one of the buildings. With a steamy glass of vin chaud (hot mulled wine - 4.20€) and a cup of grand cafe creme (4€) along with the heaters set outside amidst the tables on the terrace I was well able to ward off the late Autumn chill.

Click on this here to read more about Dame Tartine and its use as a location in an Eric Rohmer film:
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/tp/1669e6/

Photos: November 2007

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Theme: Eating and Drinking
Dress Code: Casual
Phone: 01 42 77 32 22
Address: 2, rue Brisemiche 75004
Directions: Located on Place Igor Stravinsky set squarely between Eglise St-Merri and the Centre Pompidou.

Nightlife Spot: Action Ecole Cinema

Let me tell you about the nice, friendly, helpful, global staff at Le Village Youth Hostel. People from Brazil & different places worked there with one of the guys being a HUGE cinéphile like me. One night I'd sat at one of the tables reading the Me Talk Pretty One Day by American humorist David Sedaris and I was laughing out loud. He asked me what it was about which turned into a long discussion about movies & the theatres in Paris. He was then kind enough to help me find a movie for Friday night. It was decided I'd see an old Marilyn Monroe classic, a flick I'd never seen, Niagara.

So I took David Sedaris' advice (I'd met him the previous night at a book signing at The Village Voice where he'd signed my book) and saw a film that Friday night. Indeed, he's right. There were tons of talking in the theatre but the *moment* the title flashed across the screen all was still with quiet, utter silent bliss. At the theater I attended, Action Ecoles, the seats were comfy with tall backs in red plush velvet. No small wonder that they don't serve refreshments here, at least I didn't see any. I've always told people that I have some sort of magnet that attracts the loudest people in the theatres to sit RIGHTBEHINDME. But here in Paris about the only sound you'll hear will be polite laughter during the funny parts. This alone makes me want to live in Paris!

Here's the website that the gentleman at Le Village used to help me find a movie. It notes all the movies that are showing in Paris, an invaluable service:
http://www.seances.org

Photos: February 2006

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Theme: Theater
Dress Code: Casual
Address: 23, rue des Ecoles 75005
Directions: Just down the street from the Hotel St-Jacques in the heart of the Latin Quarter.
Website: http://www.actioncinemas.com

Nightlife Spot: Connolly's Corner

Connolly's Corner
An Irish bar (member of the Irish Pub Association of France)

For a raucous college bar experience, hit Connolly's Corner. This is a great, funky bar - a very authentic experience, although what type of authentic experience, I'm not sure! I walked up to the bartender and ordered a pint of Guinness (it really does taste better overseas - I suppose the crossing of the Channel doesn't affect the taste, just the crossing of the Atlantic!). This place looks for any opportunity to give away pints; if you walk in with a tie on, they'll cut it off but compensate you with a free one. So go and wear the most god-awful ugly tie you can find (like from the Dollar Tree Store). Ties are hanging all over the place in testament to the many pints they've given away.

The live music is great & the crowd is loud & raucous - loads o' fun. Somehow the noise didn't really spill out onto the street because I recall I was almost on top of the place before I realized I was there. But it's a cool place - one of those places where everyone seemed to know each other, like family, so it's a convivial place to just hang out.

Photos: Feb 2006, August 2005 & November 2007

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Theme: Live Music
Dress Code: No dress code - it's a college crowd!

One concession: NO TIES!

UPDATE:
Connolly's Corner is now OPEN!
Phone: 01 43 31 94 22
Address: 12 rue de Mirbel, Paris 75005 (Quartier Latin)
Directions: M?tro: Censier Daubenton
From the Metro walk north 1 block along rue Monge, turn left on rue de Mirbel. It's 1 block further at the corner of rue de Mirbel & rue des Patriarches.
Website: http://www.gps.caltech.edu/~vorlon/test3frame1.html

Nightlife Spot: Corcoran's Traditional Irish Pub

One night I decided to walk the tip of the Ile de la Cite. As I was walking along the right bank quai taking photos of the Conciergerie (gorgeous at night), a gentleman asked me in French if I might take a photo of him. It turned out he was an Irishman in Paris for his last night. We ended up talking about Paris, Shakespeare & Co., James Joyce, Sylvia Beach (who’d published Ulysses in Paris), Dublin (where he’d attended university) and the Irish folk-punk band, The Pogues, one of my favorites. I asked him if he might be up for a visit to Sylvia’s original Shakespeare & Co. on rue de l'Odeon. He agreed but we first we had to stop for a pint o' Guinness at an Irish bar on rue St-Andre-des-Arts, Corcoran's.

It’s always nice meeting new friends in Paris and Seamus (can you get more of an Irish name than Seamus?) was a true gentleman and a great conversationalist. He made me promise that when Mr. Connolly and I visited Ireland that we’d come to visit his family because his father is a genealogy enthusiast and would love to help us with our Connolly roots.

While we were walking out on our way to find the site of the original Shakespeare & Co. I mentioned that Jack Kerouac lived nearby but I didn't have my notes with me. Little did I realize it was in the same building!

Later, I was looking for Jack Kerouac’s home in Paris (well, I’m not called the Beatchick for nothing) when I happened upon Corcoran, the Irish pub Seamus & I had a pint o' Guinness, the entrance to which was just around the corner! Awesome!! But also more amazing is that this bar was once called La Gentilhommiere where Jack enjoyed several nights drinking here as mentioned in Satori in Paris.

At Corcoran's they play traditional Irish music and during happy hour drinks are 5€ (see website below for complete list).

Photos: February 2006

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Theme: Live Music
Dress Code: Ultra casual, jeans & such. This is basically a student bar in the Latin Quarter.
Phone: 01 40 46 97 46
Address: 28, rue St-Andre-des-Arts 75006
Directions: Exit from the St-Michel métro, cut west thru Place St-Michel to rue St-Andre-des-Arts. Walk 1 block; it's on the corner of rue Git-le-Coeur.
Website: http://www.corcoranirishpub.com/

Nightlife Spot: Cinema le Saint Germain des Pres

Embarking again on David Sedaris' advice I chose to watch another film although at a different theater, Cinema le Saint Germain des Pres which sits just off Place Saint-Germain-des-Pres.

Didn't have quite as much luck this time as there was a guy sitting behind me who whispered a few minutes into the movie, but his obviously French girlfried shushed him and he became quiet.

This time the 1985 film, Alamo Bay, was from Louis Malle (famous French director married to Candice Bergen) set in entirely American locale, Texas! The film stars a very young Ed Harris as the evil boyfriend of a very young Amy Madigan (don't worry, he gets his comeuppance in the end - go see the film).

Photos: November 2007 & February 2006

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Theme: Theater
Dress Code: Casual
Phone: 01 42 22 87 23
Address: 22, rue Guillaume Apollinaire 75006
Directions: Just north of Place St-Germain-des-Pres on rue Guillaume Apollinaire.
Website: http://www.seances.org
Other Contact: Fx#: 01 45 44 56 66

Nightlife Spot: L'Hotel's Bar

Because I’m a long-time Oscar Wilde fan, I’d been dying to have drinks at L'Hôtel. I started off with an 18 euro Coupe de Champagne Rose (glass of pink champagne), ended up talking to a couple from South Carolina who also owned a home in N'awlins, and at their urging ended up drinking the entire bottle of champagne (they picked up the tab, wasn't that nice?). Definitely come here for fantastic drinks & fantastic service. I visited here twice & found it to be tres sympa & cozy. The second night was to meet up with my distant cousin, Shannon Twiss, who works in photography in California and is a HUGE Parisophile like me. Like us, you may opt for a late-night dinner; we had scrambled eggs & bacon.

You might also recognize this place as Anthony Bourdain's hotel during his Paris episode of his hugely popular show on The Travel Channel, No Reservations. The episode also shows Tony swimming in the downstairs pool which appears in the opening credits. This hotel's address is given by Sabrina's father (John Wood) to Lionel (Harrison Ford) to indicate where Julia Ormond's character staying in Paris in the 1995 version of Sabrina.

This is a favorite hotel of rock stars such as Lenny Kravitz; Jim Morrison stayed here and Oscar Wilde died here (room 16) when it was still a seedy hotel known as the Hôtel d'Alsace intoning his famous last words, "Either that wallpaper goes or I do!". Nowadays, L'Hotel is a considerably more upscale hotel catering to the likes of rock stars and famous actors! In fact, in the bar you'll see photos of Johnny Depp, Keanu Reeves, Rober de Niro and Milla Jovovich (who was married to her Fifth Element director, Luc Besson, who also directed Nikita and its subsequent Americanized version Point of No Return starring Bridget Fonda).

Photos: February 2006

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Theme: Eating and Drinking
Dress Code: Business casual which the couple from South Carolina wore. I dressed in black as did my cousin, Shannon.

You can see a copy of the hotel bar here:
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/tp/1b8919/
Phone: 01 44 41 99 00
Address: 13, rue des Beaux Arts
Directions: From the Pont des Arts, cut through the right-hand arch of the Institut de France, continue south along rue de Seine and turn right at the first street. It's about halfway down the block.
Website: http://www.l-hotel.com/bar-e.php
Other Contact: Fx#: 01 43 25 64 81

Nightlife Spot: Mandala Ray

Mandala Ray

While in Paris it is imperative to go to Mandala Ray (formerly Man Ray) for a drink, perhaps for a very expensive 13€ Kir Royale (chic glass of champagne with a shot of crème de casses, a blackcurrant liqueur), served alongside the archetypal cocktail dish of nuts & olives.

Mandala Ray is dark & cool, terribly branché (a term that seems to have the same double meaning as our word trendy), playing hypnotic techno ambient music with an Oriental/eastern theme near the Champs Elysées.

My 3rd trip to Paris, I stopped in here for a drink – the aforementioned 13€ kir royale - in the upper mezzanine bar area scanning the vast dining area below; a faboo place to survey the beautiful people. Later in the evening, the upper area becomes a place to dance the night away.

Not content to be merely a bar/nightclub, Mandala Ray also serves pricey tapas & sushis, but from all the reviews I've read not worth the price. Maybe your choice of bar will reward you with the sight of Johnny Depp, John Malkovich, Sean Penn, or Mick Hucknall, the gents who jointly own the place. Go to the website and you can see the Man Ray house mixes CDs offered up for sale (much like the Buddha Bar or Café de Flore releases).

Photo: August 2005

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Theme: Nightclub
Dress Code: It is, after all, one of the hippest nightclubs in Paris catering to an international crowd, and you'll obviously want to look cool & chic, so black, black, BLACK, dahling!
Phone: 01 56 88 36 36
Address: 34 rue Marbeuf, Paris 75008
Directions: Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt

From the FDR Métro, go south just a few feet/meters to Mandala Ray. You WON'T be able to miss it!
Website: http://www.manray.fr/
Other Contact: 01 42 25 36 36 Fx#