"Where Ukraine, Austria, Poland and So ..." a Lviv Travel Page by Zo72

In the Summer of 2004 I was planning a car trip through few Central European countries. My route was persistently broadening and moving to the east and its easternmost point, Slovakian town of Kosice, was "dangerously" close to Ukraine. Since I had never been to what used to be Soviet Union I was very interested and I started researching what was across the Ukrainian border. That is how the city of Lviv became more than just a name on the map - I saw some photos, read few reviews and contacted some people that have visited it or lived there. But distance, lack of accurate information and most of all visa that was required to enter Ukraine prevailed over my enthusiasm and eastern Slovakia remained easternmost point of that trip. But things have changed during last year and visa is no longer required for Ukraine. Since Lviv is not so far from Slovenia (about 1000 km) some cheap student agency offered trip to Lviv on its New years catalogue. Three busses left Ljubljana for Lviv on December 28th, 2005, and I was on one of them.

But the trip to Lviv was much more tiresome than distance would suggest. Not because it was snowing most of the ride, not because we chose longer route through Austria, Czech republic and Poland instead of direct route through Hungary... but because of last 350 km from Krakow to Lviv which took 11 hours. Ukrainian border officers needed more than 2 hours to stamp our passports (actually we were lucky because other busses needed 4 hours for that). Sights of night Lviv as we were entering were all but pleasant. Hotel room certainly didn't improve my mood, neither did pathetic vechiles called marshrutka used for public transport. But it was reality that I wanted and in less than an hour after we had arrived I was in marshrutka heading for the city center... not knowing if I will be able to recognize it to exit there.

Lviv (pronounced Ljviv in Croatian or Serbian) must have been really a great city at its height in late days of Habsburg Monarchy, but it is heavily marked by hard times of 20th century. It was founded in 13th century by King Danylo of Galicia. After his death it was part of Polish-Lithuanian state (Polish name: Lwow) until 1772 when it became part of Habsburg monarchy (German name: Lemberg). In 1860-es Galician parliament was opened, Galicia was given authonomy and its capital Lviv became major centre for Polish and Ukrainian nations that were othervise suppresed under Russia and Germany. Hard times came with first world war. City was captured in 1914 by Russians but was retaken by Austria in 1915. In 1918 there was Polish-Ukrainian war in Lviv as city was inhabited mostly by Poles but surrounded by vast teritorry inhabited mostly by Ukrainians where Western Ukrainian Republic was proclaimed. Western Ukrainian Republic was soon captured by Poles (who controled Lviv) from the west and Soviets from the east. In 1920 Poles and Ukrainians signed alliance against Soviets and Ukrainians recognized Polish rights to the city. When Red army approached Lviv Polish and Ukrainian forces succesfully defended the city together but their war for Ukrainian independence was unsuccessful. Until 1939 Lviv was in Poland. In 1939 Soviets and Nazis jointly invaded Poland and Lviv was captured by Red army which executed terror and sent many inhabitants into other parts of Soviet Union. When Germans captured the city in 1941 they were considered liberators. That didn't last long since they continued with terror implementing harsh policies against population which resulted in many deaths. In 1944 Soviet troops recaptured the city and most of the Poles left or were expelled. In Habsburg Monarchy Lviv used to be meeting point of Ukrainian, Polish, Jewish and German cultures but little of that remains. During and after second world war Germans, Jews and Poles left, were expelled or murdered while there was huge influx of people from rural areas around the city and from other parts of Soviet Union. Soviet Union brought communism which definetly changed the city. Its population and size grew, settlements of blocks and industry were built. But new buildings were often built badly while old buildings were left to decay. In 1980-es Lviv became centre of Ukrainian national movement. In 1991 Ukraine became independent which caused huge economic shock. Despite large economic growth during last years, Ukraine is still a fairly poor country.

Lviv survived troubles of 20th century but remains marked by them. With 800000 inhabitants it is the largest centre in western Ukraine. At first sight disorderly suburban settlements of blocks and chaotic and polluting traffic and many other things like water reductions create sad picture. Still the city centre is very beautiful with many historic sights and parks and lots is being invested into renovation of buildings that were left to decay for centuries. Although still pretty unknown it will certainly become one of the major tourist destination in this part of Europe.