"Surabaya - Indonesia's Second City" Surabaya by Java-Man

Surabaya is Indonesia's second largest city after Jakarta, with a population of about 5 million. It isn't a large city with distances from one side to the other taking about 45 minutes at the most. However, much of the population lives in densely polulation 'kampungs', where they live side by side in small houses built between larger, more prosperous buildings.

It has a large harbour and is home to the Indonesian Navy. It does have a beach, but it is not for swimming. Surabaya rather turns its back on the sea as it is not a tourist destination, but rather a major commercial and manufacturing centre.

Surabaya isn't the world's most beautiful city, but it does have a lot of colour. It is home to a number of different ethnic groups (Javanese, Madurese, Arabs, Indians, and Chinese), all of whom add their own styles.

It has reasonable infrastructure, and you can find numerous modern hotels (there are five 5 star hotels), shopping malls (some of the biggest anywhere) and numerous restaurants offering local and foreign cuisines.

A number of attractive buildings remain from the Dutch colonial era, although, sadly, many of these are in disrepair or are destined to be torn down.

It has a number of tree-lined streets, but it is a very hot city, with an average temperature of about 31-3 C., day and night.

One of the best things about it, I suppose, is the ease with which one can get out of it. Only a hour down the toll express way and you're into beautiful scenery, cooler temperatures and a more traditional way of living.

Of all the hotels I would have to recommend the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Majapahit - first built in 1910, with additions from the 1930s. Stunningly renovated and with great character.

Surabaya is certainly worth a night or two on your way to or from Jakarta or Bali.

• Pros:Reasonable infrastructure and amenities, local colour
• Cons:Hot and a little polluted
• In a nutshell:Worth a short visit for the adventurous