"ancient Greek Pythaiea" Pitve by halikowski
Pitve Travel Guide: 4 reviews and 8 photos
Head away from the sea, to see how the island once was. These villages are very quiet.. most of them were abandoned in the 1960s when the inhabitants left agriculture to assume jobs in the tourist sector on the coast. And they built new, concrete houses with all the mod cons. Today these villages are being rapidly bought up by foreigners. Little plots of land where vegetable gardens grow are interspersed with the houses. One hopes the new generations will continue to look after them... ma non e detto (it can't be guaranteed)!
Actually, Pitve is split between an upper (Gornji) and lower (dolni) settlement, for reasons that are still not clear to me. And then the residents still speak of Jelsa as `belonging' to Pitve, `their port'. The lower part of Pitve is bigger and more populated, but in some ways less authentic..
What you see here is an old village with fine homes, but also the natural vegetation of Dinaric Yugoslavia (because it's not just Croatia). Karst or `kras' is porous limestone rock, uneven and dry with plenty of sinkholes, caves and little in the way of soil. The rock is so sharp you really do need to wear good shoes, but also to protect you from snakes and insects. But it is populated by hundreds of aromatic herbs and bushes and never muddy, and is much loved by people across the Mediterranean -- the Italians call it `pietra viva' (living stone).
- Pros:superb location; wonderful, aristocratic old houses
- Cons:too many foreigners like me; all the traffic to the southern part of the island goes by
- In a nutshell:the island at its best
You can see the split-Dubrovnik ferry sailing off. In the background you see mountainous Brac and immediately behind the... more travel advice
The southern coast steeply descends down to the sea. It is wilder, and more cut off, though the villages have been a bit... more travel advice
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