"MASS" Mardin by chauncenetta

Mardin Travel Guide: 2 reviews and 3 photos

Pilgrims and such

We reached Mardin in the early evening, which is pretty early as it was getting dark by 4:30, and drove up to a monastery. I awoke, all groggy and staggered into the courtyard of this place, trying to shake the inertia from myself that accompanies a day long car ride, and came upon some men walking purposely towards the chapel. "May I help you?" one asked, rather brusquely I thought. "Are you having a service?" I asked.
Yes, I was told and yes you may come. I enter this chapel, it was dark with walls that glistened as though with oil, a very Goth feeling kind of place but actually this would be pre-Goth. There were 4 rows of pews and i went to the 2nd row. The chanting began and from behind a nun, looking like a black crow, threw a white lace mantilla to me, as I should have been veiled, and behind me I saw of group of these women, kneeling in the corner. I found it curious that I was given white to cover myself with.
The "service", or mass as it's correctly called I guess, continued with these wonderful chanting, in Aramaic. The priests, there were two, slowly walked with their backs to the pews and they reminded me of Miles Davis. Now and then someone would come out and wildly swing an incense ball around, the chanting would intensify and at random moments chants would come from behind a wall near a rear altar.
It was decidedly Rosemary's Baby.
We had tea with them afterwards.
The Father told me that he lived in New York City in the 70's, would every morning walk past the construction site of the new WTC. When 9/11 happened, it took him back to those days.

  • Last visit to Mardin: Dec 2003
  • Intro Updated Jan 25, 2004
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chauncenetta

“"Even the broken letters of the heart spell earth." Daniel Thompson, poet laureate of Cleveland”

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