"Kuwait City" a Kuwait Travel Page by filmboomer

It’s 11:45 PM local time and I’m safely ensconced in the Kuwait City's J.W. Marriott. Sweeeeet.
Arrived jetlagged and exhausted.

6:00 PM Wednesday, March 12, 2003

I slept for 9-1/2 hours last night, awakening to the sound of housekeeping (man, by the way...this IS a Muslim country, after all) knocking on my door at 9:30 AM.

Today was about getting to the Bureau, the U.S. Army HQ and the Ministry of Information. We got credentials from both the army and ministry so I’m now legal to travel around without having to explain my presence here. It’s a big relief, considering the puckered nature of the security forces here.

Military vehicles are abundant in Kuwait City; some of them painted grey/black camouflage, some sand-colored camouflage. They all have enhanced grill and bumper protection (think a Bellevue housewife’s Range Rover) and some have machine guns mounts. I’ll be taking surreptitious photos of whatever’s interesting.

Peter Jennings is here. The ABC Bureau is set on the rooftop (but inside) of the local Sheraton. The room is pretty big: at least 2500 square feet, and contains long conference-style tables with laptops abounding, fax machines, copiers, makeshift cubicles (Jennings’ has plywood walls on two sides…rather a comedown for him, I would think) catering table, couches, etc. It’s a beehive of activity and everyone seems to be friendly and approachable, save perhaps for Jennings who is a very, very busy man.

After we got to the Bureau (by foot, a distance of at least a half-mile…like I’m going to make a habit of THAT!) I discovered I needed my passport for the credentialing process. That made me appear like a dim-bulb but I think no one but a couple of key people noticed that. Nevertheless, I walked back to the Marriott and fortunately, discovered another guy who was having an ABC car return him, so I rode along.

After we got our Kuwaiti credentials, we had to go 20+ miles to the Hilton, where the U.S. Army is based, for the Army passes. Our driver was a nice young man named Attik who thinks he speaks very good English. In order to avoid asking him to repeat everything 5 times, I answer "Yes" when he asks if I understand.

We arrived at the Hilton, which is on the Gulf waterfront, and ferreted out our producer, Brian and correspondent John Quiñones who were at poolside having the de rigueur non-alcoholic drinks.

It took about an hour to get through the credentialing process with the Army specialists due not to their inefficiency but to the crowd of journalists, all wanting the same thing. Considering the line ahead of us, it took very little time at all. It’s like they’d been doing this for weeks. Oh…they have been doing this for that long. All the Army non-com’s and officers were extremely helpful and cordial. It was almost like they wanted us here at Ground Zero (if Saddam has his way) rather than seeing us as the annoying pests we are.

We had lunch at an outdoor table after that process had been completed and both of us decided it was a good placed to avoid next time (I see the possbility of turning Vegan while here). There was a man skinning a sheep alongside the road on the way to the Hilton. Kevin saw it...not I, thank goodness.

I took some photos today but was a little “hinky” about doing that with military types in the foreground. I’m relatively certain they wouldn’t shoot me, but they might yell at me for taking a photo of their equipment. I hate being yelled at so discretion is my better part of valor.

Tonight is the mother of all sandstorms outside and the lobby looks like a movie set complete with smoke diffusion, except it's tan, not grey. I tried taking a few shots of it but the dust particles nearest my lens were hit by the flash and became prominent, making the photo unusable. I'll download it anyway. Just in case there are any directors of photography in the "house" who are groaning that I didn't negate the flash...I JUST thought about that! I'll try a very steady shot sans flash if time permits. (later: time didn't permit).

I think it’s a combination of jet lag and losing a day but I was totally out of it today as regards the actual day of the week. Days seem to pass by and each is the same as the next. And this is only Day 3.

We picked up our flak vest and Kevlar helmet today. The armor will really come in handy back home when I try to clip Max-the-cat’s claws. I highly recommend the vests…although there is a little sticker shock associated with them: $2500 (or was it 2500 Pounds? The man who gave it to me is a Brit so it could be either).

We have three or four ex-SAS and other elite forces personnel “imbedded” with our news crews. I think they’ll be going with the forward crews so I doubt I’ll see them much.

We wait for word from Washington, D.C. as to whether or not we go anywhere or do anything. We have two story lines we’re supposedly working on:
1. Friendly Fire: what steps have been taken to avoid it as much as possible this time; and
2. Behind the superstitions of the Marine Sniper Unit.

Of course, if nothing is happening as to any warlike activity by next week, the stories from behind-the-scenes will be sort of superfluous.

There is a possibility of going to the "Highway of Death" tomorrow. That's the road to Basra.

I just heard that a couple of U.S. civilians were shot in a drive-by a couple of weeks ago just a few hundred yards from our hotel. Talk about fixating on an anecdote. I have expanded my awareness of what's going on around me...much as women have to do all the time. It's a muscle I have not had to use in decades so it doesn't come easily. Fear helps though. Kevin and I went out to do some shopping for a smaller tripod tonight and while I didn't feel unsafe, I was noticing the faces of those around me much more consciously.

Oh yes, about photos: this has become a headache. I'll keep trying to upload them but might not be successful (although I have been successful in eliminating my only picture on this web site! I'm Da MAN!)

Friday, March 14th

Today is the Muslim equivilant of the Christian Sunday so not only did I not find any stores open, there were no English-written newspapers printed!

There is nothing happening in what my pal Nick calls "Operation Enduring Boredom". I will probably be less rigorous about writing here unless and until something DOES happen. So if any of you have specific questions, feel free to ask. I may know something. I may not. But I will be exploring some of the city tomorrow and may have some interesting tidbits for you.

I'm still working on down (or is it up?)loading of photos here. If I can plug my digital camera into one of the Marriott's business center's computers, then the operation will be a snap.

TV is different here, as you might imagine. There are the usual programming in Arabic, including Al Jezirra (the notorious de facto voice of Al Quaida). But there is also the local Kuwaiti interview program and in English. The moderator in today's show was interviewing a Kuwaiti military man about what he expected to happen here; a subject the host seemed to dismiss as fanciful. Both agreed that the "Friendly Forces" would be there to protect Kuwait and the 4 Kuwaiti forces would also defend the area should Iraq attack. "Insh'allah, they will not", said the host.

Then there is a program that shows the Iraqi poison gas attack and its resulting damage on the Kurdish population. They show horrific images of young people hunched over attempting to walk. It's sickening. The same channel shows the Bath Party executing by firing squad a line-up of six men.

There are French, Italian, Spanish and German channels as well as some Arabic-speaking channels from other countries like Oman and others I can't figure out.

There is American programming as well, but precious little of it and I spend much of my free time reading.

Tomorrow, the souk (bazaar) calls my name. I have some gift shopping to do and it's the ideal place to do that.

It's Monday, March 17th. Bush has bet with Tony Blair and the Spanish President in the Azores and we're down to a final 24 hours of negotiations before W makes the announcement that diplomacy has failed...an eventuality that is certain.

If there is any fear in the Kuwaiti people, it's not apparent. One of three scenarios is possible:
1. That the citizenry is correct and Kuwait will not be bombed;
2. That they are in denial; or
3. That they are fatalistic (which is true in any case) and leave their fates to the will of Allah.

My main worry isn't about my safety as much as it's about deciding which bags to pack for which field trips if we go North. The producers have said we should take everything we have with us in case we have to escape (or merely exit) through Jordan or Turkey. I leave it to them to figure out the visa situation.

We are being driven around town in small Mitsubishi "Fajeros" (a little larger than the Rav4 that Honda makes). There are Chev Suburbans dedicated to the job of driving us to safety should the situation warrant, but those huge vehicles are sitting unused in the meantime which perplexes us as we really need the room for our gear. Our first trip to another area to shoot something will require either a larger vehicle or a fleet of the smaller ones.

Some meanderings:

I've noticed something about the division of labor here. The employees of the htel are separated into genders. The only people allowed inside the guests' rooms are male. The only ones that directly serve the guests are men. The women are relegated to positions of greeters, hostesses, behind-the-front desk, tec. I am certain this is directly a result of the interpretation of the Koran and the patriarchy here.

This is a monarchy with the 90+ year-old sheik (greatly beloved by his people) in total control and the succession of heirs predetermined by bloodline, father to first-born son. Becuase of the nature of the patriarchal monarchy, there is a fairly rigid layering of power. I've also noticed in the hotel restaurant, guests who are locals or of another middle eastern country treat the wait staff as underlings. There are no (apparent) courtesies; merely orders. My asking for the name of whomever is serving me is unusual here, but I feel more comfortable that way.

The local English-written newspaper (the Arab Times) is absolutely replete with stories of conflict and skirmishes; talk of war and international tensions. If this were the only paper I read and didn't have the benefit of CNN, I'd think the Apocalypse was at hand. And that gives me shudders.

2:10 PM same day

The production team met this morning at the Bureau and went over travel plans for going North. We now have three producers and three camera crews to cover one correspondent: John Quinones for 20/20 and Primetime. Our main producer, John F. Kennedy (no lie, that's his name and he looks the part, always dressed in a preppy style) reminded us that we were not the hard news crews; that we were here for Quinones coverage. We will be most likely going to Basra and Baghdad with the NGO's (Red Cross, Save the Children, etc.) after the situation is not so gravely dangerous there.

Bert, another producer and Kevin and I will be going shopping for last-minute supplies like first aid kits, a lot of water, sleeping pads, etc.

We will travel north in three Chevy Yukons; one of them carrying a trailer. Each will have a camera crew, GPS, satellite phone, map and compasses. We're having roof racks bolted to the tops of all three Yukons so there should be enough room for the camera gear, personal stuff, water, gas, spare tires and so on. Trying to plan for the unexpected is very challenging.

Now go to the "Travelogue" section for further journal entries.