"Russia inside the EU..." Kaliningradskaya Oblast' by PeteNL

Kaliningradskaya Oblast' Travel Guide: 181 reviews and 410 photos

Street scene in the border town of Mamonovo

A fascinating region

Being a member of a German-Russian working group to stimulate small agriculture holdings in the Slawsk rayon, Kaliningradskaya Oblast, we had the chance to visit the area in August 2004, and again on our way back from Latvia and Lithuania, a year later. I already was there once earlier, in October 2003.

The area is jammed between the Baltic Sea, Lithuania and Poland, making it an island within the EU. For both the Russian inhabitants and the EU citizens travelling is restricted due to the visa rules, after both neighbours joined the EU in May 2004. Maybe the recent agreements between Russia and the EU will make things easier, making the area more attractive for a visit (also with extra EU investments?) or even as a shortcut for a drive to the Baltics.
But before that has rooted, a lot of work has to be done... and travelling with your own car is not always a pleasure (to say the least!).

We'll probably add a few more local pages on the region, so far we've only started with one on Yantarny, the amber capital of the world.

History

Entrance of the (former) Trakehnen stud farm

The area was part of Germany, Eastern Prussia (Ostpreussen) until 1945 and was famous for its culture, countryside, monuments and ... (among others) horses!

The famous Trakehnen horses have it's roots here, in a village with the same name, now rename Jasnaja Poljana.

Many old structures like most of the Trakehnen estate have fallen into disrepair or completely disappears, due to 50 years of neglect and/or simply lack of money for even the most necessary maintenance. Old churches have often been deprived of their masonry, because locals could not find any other material to repair their own houses...

Developing slowly, but...

Georgenburg stud farm near Cherna'howsk

Between 1945 and 1990 the region was absolutely closed for foreign visitors, for strategic regions: gateway to the Baltic Sea, and many military objects, often adjusted and extended from the former German army centres.
Now the military has gone, and the people have a hard time building up a new living - building up small agricultural holdings is one of the careers that many former military employees have chosen, as there hardly is an alternative in the countryside. Employment can be as high as 50% or more in these districts...
Still, they seem to manage and find their way. Reusing the former German estates or collective farms that shutdown some 10 years ago, and picking up side jobs in tourism, crafts etc.

And when some additional (private) funding can be found, success stories like the Georgenburg stud farm may even open new perspectives. In a few years this holding has grown to 10,000 hectares, hundreds of horses, cattle, a hotel and several international contests were already staged here. If you are a horse-lover - next tournament is scheduled for September 2005!

Pros and Cons

Pros:fascinating region, interesting history (and future?), friendly people
Cons:difficult to access, sometimes depressing due to poverty and neglect
In a nutshell:fascinating, but down to earth

Last visit to Kaliningradskaya Oblast': Aug 2005
Intro Updated Oct 20, 2005
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Reviews (16)

Sunset on the road to Slawsk - Kaliningradskaya Oblast'

The long and wining roads... Transportation (3)

If you look beside the many potholes (see "Warning and danger" tips) the roads are inviting enough for an enjoyable... more travel advice

Lenin and the market square of Gvardeysk - Kaliningradskaya Oblast'

No "Goodbye Lenin!"! Local Customs (1)

Unlike elsewhere in the former Sovjet Union Lenin and other icons of the past are still very much alive in the... more travel advice

Flooded potholes - less to worry about! - Kaliningradskaya Oblast'

potholes and more Warnings Or Dangers (3)

If you go there with your own car - bear in mind driving on Russian roads can bring serious damage to your cherished... more travel advice

Once you get here you're finally through... - Kaliningradskaya Oblast'

Border nightmare2 Warnings Or Dangers (3)

When returning from Kaliningrad this time (August '05) with our own car we passed the same border crossing. As we didn't... more travel advice

Favorites (2)
See All Enjoy the scenery (2)
Off The Beaten Path (3)
See All Find a popular "Baltic" bird

Comments (9)

Kuznetsov_Sergey Jan 31, 2007 at 7:41 AM Report Abuse

A very interesting view from outside on our Russian problems! Yes, crossing borders is always a nightmare here... You were lucky to manage it for 6 hours! If you ever risk to cross the Poland-Bylorussia border in Brest, read my page and never do it!
magor65 Feb 7, 2006 at 1:15 PM Report Abuse

I'm not proud at all of the 'resourcefulness' of the Polish at the border, but knowing that unemployment is high in that part of the country I can try to justify them a bit.
sprdak11 Nov 23, 2005 at 8:20 AM Report Abuse

interesting page! Greetings!
LanaFromRiga Aug 19, 2005 at 2:45 AM Report Abuse

This page is like the window to Soviet Times. I remembered my childhood.... :-)
bijo69 Jun 21, 2005 at 8:31 AM Report Abuse

Really an interesting page! Would love to visit the area one day...
HORSCHECK Jun 3, 2005 at 12:29 PM Report Abuse

Fantastic little page with brilliant photos. Kaliningrad really is on my Must-visit list, but this summer I start exploring Russia with St. Petersburg and Moscow. :o)
850prc May 19, 2005 at 7:20 PM Report Abuse

Thanks for letting me in on your new pages, Pete. Great to hear from you. I know what you mean about unusual birds. The locals may yawn, but to visitors, it's cool. I remember all the bald eagles we saw in Alaska. :)
yumyum May 19, 2005 at 10:19 AM Report Abuse

Very interesting page! It's so much better to take pics when you travel around by car and can stop as you please:))
dr.firas May 19, 2005 at 3:10 AM Report Abuse

Wonderful page, thanks for the tips, pictures and information :-))