Basilica Santa Maria Gloriosa Dei Frari and other Venice, Italy Things to Do Tips

This is an amazing place. It is relatively plain from the outside and when you walk through the doors, it opens up into a huge cavernous expanse of space.

The altarpiece, Titian's Assumption of the Virgin, is breathtaking. Titian is buried here and is the only plague victim to have been buried on the island. His tomb is beautiful.

Of all the sculptures I was most moved by the tomb of sculptor Antonio Canova. It is in the shape of a pyramid with steps leading up to it with mourning figures and winged lions at each side of the door in the middle of the pyramid. I've just read that this tomb was the inspriation for Joy Division's "Closer" album cover...

Also take time to look at the choir stalls. Each seat has a difefrent picture carved onto the back. All the carving is amazing.

Opening Times:
Mon-Sat 9am-6pm; Sun 1-6pm
Not open to the public during weddings, funerals, christenings and other liturgical celebrations, Sunday mornings and mid-week public holidays.

Admission:
2.50 euro. This money goes directly into looking after the basilica and it's art/restoration.

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Phone: +39 41 272 8611
Address: Campo dei Frari, Sao Polo
Directions: forgot my map - will check and update
Website: http://www.basilicadeifrari.it/
Other Contact: basilica@basilicadeifrari.it

A visit to the Basilica is another must. Standing in the queue (as with most places in Venice) is well worth the wait.

There is no particular order to the way you can look round but I always like to head up to the Quadriga (the 4 horses) and the Museum of St Marks. They are the oldest surviving ancient quadriga in the world and the way up to see them is by a stone staircase on the right just inside the entrance to the Basilica. The quadriga was possibly sculpted and cast in the 4th century BC by the Greek artist, Lysippos (or members of his school). They were said to have been brought to Venice from Constantinople (where they would have stood possibly on top of a triumphal arch) in 1204 in the fourth crusade . Napoleon took them to Paris in 1797 after capturing Venice and put them on top of the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel on the Tuileries. They were returned in 1815 (the present ones on top of the Arc de Triomphe are copies) . With the threat of pollution damaging them they were moved inside in the 1980s to keep them safe and copies were put in their place. I never tire of looking at them, they are simply the most beautiful things I have ever seen.

I think it cost 6 euros for the museum of St Marks around the balconys of the basilica where the horses are kept. Also, go out onto the Loggia and see the replacement horses which are themselves quite a sight, and also admire the views over St Marks Square.

Inside the Basilica at floor level go and see the Treasures of St Marks and the Pala D'Oro altarpiece. You pay 2 euros for each of these little extras once inside and they are worth far more in my opinion. You can pay a very small amount extra for each of these things to have one of those things shaped like a telephone that gives you commentary. Very useful as you learn so much more.

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Address: St Marks Square
Directions: You can't miss it

2006 Carnival starts 17th February

Carnival, or Carnevale, is Venice's answer to Mardi Gras. Every Winter for eight days leading up to Lent tourists such as I flock to the City for pageants, commedia dell'arte, concerts, face painting, displaying your costume and masked balls up until Shrove Tuesday which marks the end of the festival.

In it's glory days of the 1700s the Carnevale di Venezia began on 26th December, people would wear masks and party and gamble. right until Ash Wednesday. The Venetian Republic was beginning to lose trade by this time which meant a loss of wealth and power. Carnival ceased along with the Republic when Napoleon Bonaparte conquered Venice in 1797.

In 1979 a group of non-Venetians attempted to revive Carnival a bit like other historical societies hold re-enactments and costume events. The event took off and hence the Carnival in it's present from was born, perking up a traditionally quiet time visitor-wise and creating a new tourist season.

My only gripe about the timing is that the weather is a bit hit and miss at this time of the year. Some of the costumes are so elaborate and sopping wet velvet could be quite heavy I imagine, and big ostrich plumes never look as grand when they're bedraggled!

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Address: Venice Island
Directions: Most of the action centres around St Marks Square. Look for the Campanile and head that way.
Website: http://www.carnivalofvenice.com/

This church houses some spectacular paintings. For 1 euro you can pay to illuminate Bellini's Madonna Enthroned with Four Saints - which really is truly beautiful. The colours come alive when it's illuminated.

Also, the church houses the silver-clad tomb of St. Zacharias (father of John the Baptist).

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Address: Campo San Zaccaria
Directions: As you stand looking at the Savoia and Jolanda hotel (just along from the Danieli) take the alleyway just to the right of the main entrance and this leads to the church on your right.

it's Italian name is Ponte Dei Sospiri. It received this name supposedly from the prisoners who were said to sigh as they caught sight of their last view of Venice as they crossed to the prison cells.

If you visit the Doges palace be sure to head for the Prigione as you get to cross inside the Bridge of Sighs and through tot he prisons. The prisons give me the shivers every time I go. Try to imagine them without modern comforts such as electric lighting.

The bridge was built in 1600 to connect the inquisitor's rooms in the main palace with the Doge's prisons.

Fab Photo Tip Wait for a misty, damp night and go to view the bridge from the rear side as described below. The mist will diffuse the coloured light that illuminates the bridge and if you sit long enough a gondolier will pass directly underneath the Bridge of Sighs to the Gondola station just behind you..... Remember to wipe any mist of your lens; I forgot and one of the photos I've attached is my failed attempt at a unique photo opportunity :o(

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Address: Over the Rio di Palazzo next to the Doges Palace.
Directions: You can view the bridge from either direction. To get to the rear walk infront of the Basilica, turn right into Piazzetta d. Leoni and straight on into calle d. Canonica. The bridge infront of you ia a dead end. Turn right here and left onto the bridge.
Website: http://europeforvisitors.com/venice/articles/bridge_of_sighs.htm

If you've been to Murano in the morning, take a trip to Burano in the afternoon. The waterbus takes about an hour but the island is well worth a visit.

All the houses are brightly coloured. This is so that the fisherman returning home could see their houses even in the bad weather.

Lace making is the island tradition and there are lots of shops selling a variety of lace goods.

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Address: in the Lagoon
Directions: Vaporetto number -

Can't really says what's special about coming up the Grand Canal and seeing Rialto Bridge, it's just one of those things that has to be experienced.

Once you've been under it on a boat, take a walk and stand on the outside walkway and watch the world go by.

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Address: Rialto, Grand Canal
Directions: Can't miss it - take any form of water transport under it and let your legs take you over it.

Standing in the middle of Accademia Bridge and looking down the Grand Canal out towards Santa Maria della Salute is one of the nicest views in Venice for me.

From St Marks Square direction, it's also on the way to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art which is worth a visit even if you're not really into modern art. I'm not a modern art fan but I enjoyed the visit none the less.

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Address: Accademia Bridge, Accademia
Directions: Near the Peggy Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art

A trip up the Campanile is a must but the best piece of advice I can give is to pick a clear day because mist or heat haze will reduce visability. And don't worry, the way up to the top is in a lift, you don't have to climb up stairs all the way to the top.

Also, in chilly/damp weather it can be very, very cold and windy up the Campanile so wrap up warm if you want to stay up there a while and admire the views.

I vaguely recall it costs 6 euros?

Look out on the Northern wall of the Campanile for all the mteorological instruments such as chronometer, thermometer and a guage showing the heights and times of the tides.

There has been a bell tower here since the 9th Century, though the spire and guilded angel date from 1514. The original tower collapsed in 1902 (without casualty other than the caretakers cat!) It was rebuilt as an absolute replica of the tower that had collapsed.

If you are staying on the island, get to the Piazza before 9am and you should be at or near the front of any queues for the main attractions as the day-visitors won't have got there by that time.

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Address: St Marks Square
Directions: You can't miss it

Visit one of the glass factories and watch a glass blowing demonstration it's fascinating. We watched a man make this prancing horse and it took him no more than a few minutes. It would have been great to be able to buy it on the day but the glass is such a temperature that the glass blower said it wouldn't be cool properly until the next day. He laid a piece of newspaper over it and it burst into flames instantly.

Don't go on a trip to the glass factories organised for free by many hotels. You will be under immense pressure to buy something then and there and the glass is understandably expensive.

You are far better off to go under your own steam and purchase something smaller/cheaper if you want to at any of the shops as there are loads on the Murano. I particularly like the little glass cats with the tiny glass goldfish inside their belly!

Also, beware of buying glass on Venice Island itself. I'm told that although they might tell you it is Murano glass, chances are if it's very cheap it will have been made elsewhere.

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Address: the lagoon
Directions: Vaporetto number -