"The Camino Ingles" Top 5 Page for this destination Galicia by into-thin-air
Galicia Travel Guide: 1,379 reviews and 4,302 photos
Well I had a wonderful walk this time --- " The Camino Ingles " from Ferrol to Santiago de Compostela.
Having bought the Pilgrims Guide to Spain -- Camino Ingles from the Confraternity of Saint James, We flew out to Santiago de Compostela from London, the first leg of the journey was with British Airways as far as Barcelona then with Iberia to Santiago de Compostela, this is the first time that I have flown with the Spanish national Airline and I was quite impressed by them apart from that you had to pay for the snacks / drinks onboard !!
We landed late and had pre-booked accommodation on the internet at The Monte del Gozo Hotel, we got a taxi there from the Airport for 14 Euro's, the next morning we walked into Santiago de Compostela, went first to the Compostela office and bought our " Credentials " and pre-booked our accommodation at Hostal Santa Cruz for our return to Santiago de Compostela where we had stayed on our previous visit there then went to the Bus Station and caught the bus out to Ferrol.
Once we arrived here we walked down to the old steps where the original pilgrims would have landed and started to walk the Camino Ingles !!
Although it was around 16.00 the day was still very Hot, we soon picked up the yellow arrows and walked out of Ferrol and around the bay to Neda, this should have been around ten kilometres but I think it was a little longer, the waymarking was however good !!
We stayed the night at the Hostal Maragato which I will heartily recommend, this small family run hotel is Very friendly, the food is Excellent and an en-suite room is a very reasonable 24 Euro's !!
The next morning we were up and away reasonably early and walked to Mino, this section in the guidebook didn't sound so interesting as it said that we were following the new motorway, however the way marking again was very good and the path had been routed away from this new road wherever possible, after passing through Pontedeume we did go a little astray where we either missed a turn or the sign was missing ?? However we were soon put right by a passing motorist !! Over all this was another great day's walking, Pontedeume is Very Beautiful and makes a superb lunch stop !!
We arrived at the refugio in Mino and had a little difficulty locating the key, The local telephone number is 981 78 42 54 and it might be worthwhile giving this number a ring if you are either arriving in late or walking in the quiet season !! However we eventually located a key through a helpful Policeman and we were the only people in the refugio for the night !! I would have estimated that this day we walked around 25 kilometres !!
The next day we were up and on our way early -- 07.00 and we were walking !! a very interesting day, the first place that you will come to of any size is Betanzos ( this is the last place to stock up on supplies if you are intending staying the night in the refugio at Hospital de Bruma ), we arrived here late morning and stopped for Brunch then on through Beautiful countryside through numerous small villages with no facilities until you reach the Bar Julia near San Paio, we stopped here for a snack and cold drinks ( also a bottle of wine, a litre of Excellent local red decanted into a plastic bottle !! ) After leaving you have some hard work to do, about 2 hours of up-hill walking before dropping down slightly to Hospital de Bruma and the Beautiful Friendly little refugio there !!
So make sure that your water bottle is full before setting off on this climb -- if like us you have already been walking for several hours then Do prepare yourself for this section as it is the hardest on the entire route !!!
This is a Very Long and hard day, the concierge at the refugio said that it was well over 40 kilometres and NOT the 30 as stated in the book !! Also top up your water bottle at Every Opportunity as you will drink a lot, especially if the weather is warm !!
The way-markings for this day are excellent !!
The concierge at Hospital de Bruma seems to be geared up for people arriving late and was there until after 23.00 on the night that we stayed, There is No Bar / restaurant at Hospital de Bruma !!
Our original plan was to walk into Santiago de Compostela the next day, according to the book this was going to be another 40k, neither of us really fancied this and Stevies feet had suffered badly so we decided to split the day and walk to Siguceiro, this was approximately 25k according to the book and I would say that this distance was more or less correct, We found the " Bar Porto " was, as suggested still closed when we arrived so we sat in the little garden opposite and had our breakfast which was some bread and cheese left over from the previous day !! Then continued walking to Calle de Poulo where we found the second bar open, It has to be said that the woman who runs this bar isn't overly friendly, we wanted to make a phone call to Santiago de Compostela to cancel our accommodation there which we had pre-booked ( because of our change of plans ) and although there was a telephone that she did let us try to use either this telephone had a fault or something and after having our coffee she wouldn't let us try again ??
From here we walked through some nice countryside to the outskirts of Siguceiro, you approach the town straight on then take a left up past the school to a T junction and turn right here, Practically on this corned there is a wonderful restaurant that does both a plate el dais as well as various dishes of the menu -- we found the food here Excellent and the prices Very reasonable with Friendly service.
From here it was only a 10 minute walk into the town centre where we easily found the Hostal Miras. The book says this Isn't recommended and Isn't Pilgrim friendly -- Here I would Disagree Strongly, we found the staff Excellent and Very Friendly, First they showed us to our room which had a shower but no toilet, the decor was a bit past its best but it was Spotlessly clean and a very reasonable 25 Euro's a night !! Then we also ate in the Hostal Restaurant and the food was the Best of the entire trip !! So I would give the " Hostal Miras " a Big Thumbs Up !!!!!
The next day we completed the Camino by walking the 17k into Santiago de Compostela, the first half of the route is fairly interesting and nice countryside but after little church at Agualada there is a lot of road walking. we didn't check to see if the foot-bridge over the Sionlla river was in place yet -- We chose to stick to walking on the edge of the N550 for the remaining 8 / 9k into Santiago de Compostela centre. If you stick initially to the left hand side there is a little road running parallel to the N550 -- But keep well into the side as you won't here traffic coming up behind because of the traffic noise from the N550 !! There is a little cafe after less than an hour from the little church at Agualada but it is rather expensive !! Then from here it is about another good hour to Santiago de Compostela centre, once you reach the first roundabout ( with starts in the centre !! ) you bear right then soon pick up the way-markings at the statue of the Modern Pilgrim !! Then it is an Easy walk to complete your Camino at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela centre !!!
- Pros:This walk is far better than I thought that it would be, the book is a bit off putting talking about following motorways and Pilgrim unfriendly Hostels -- We found the walk to be Excellent, Passing through some Beautiful Countryside !!
- Cons:Misleading information on the distance between places. Only two refugios on the Route and often little choice of stop-overs making it either necessary to walk Long or Very Short days !!
- In a nutshell:We found that we were the only Pilgrims walking the Ferrol route but found others when we arrived at Hospital de Bruma who had walked the Coruna route !! ( Not like the Camino Frances -- there was hardly a bed in a refugio within 100k of Santiago )
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