What a wretched place! I suppose anyone that comes within shouting distance of Tombouctou has to go there just to be able to say, "I've been to Tombouctou and back!" But that's about the extent of the excitement.
Tombouctou was a fabled destination for centuries. Reputed to have houses with gold roofs. It defied successful European exploration until April 25, 1828 when the French adventurer Rene Callie made an appearance on the dusty streets of this outpost. Upon his return to France Callie was awarded a 10,000 franc prize for being the first to venture to Tombouctou and live to tell the tale. Unfortunately, Callie succumbed to sicknesses picked up in Africa and dies at age 39 a few years after his triumphant return.
But Callie was infinitely more fortunate than Major Gordon Laing, an Englishman, who dared to enter the reclusive city in 1826. The sultan of Tombouctou order Laing to remove himself from the city with all possible haste. Laing complied but was ambushed by agents of the sultan just a few miles outside the city gates and was dispossessed of his head.
Given the track record, I can see why we all feel that we must say that our feet walked the ground of Tombouctou, but just know going in that it is hot, dusty, dirty and devoid of any real charm.
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on Dec 20, 2006
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