"Livorno is a town that doesn't give a damn. Great!" Top 5 Page for this destination Livorno by craic

Livorno Travel Guide: 162 reviews and 515 photos

I arrived in town by train!

And there is just one thing I want to say to you. Ready?

Ok you Livornese. There is nothing wrong with your city that could not be fixed by getting out of your cars and off your vespas and into the buses and onto your bicycles. (But did you realise how you scared me by not wearing helmets while biking?)
The traffic is horrible in your city.
You are very bad drivers.
This is not helped by the traffic light system. The little green crossing man is showing but as one crosses, suddenly all the traffic from the side road starts pouring across the road.
A woman thrust her baby in a stroller out into the melee shouting at me "Be bold! Just cross!"
I think that was what she said.
She may have been shouting "You ***! Get out of town!"
I had just seen two traffic accidents so I did not feel like being bold.
This is obviously a tough little city with plenty of attitude with a very fleet of foot population.

My great grandmother, Telena Scaramelli, left Livorno many many years ago. She married an Irishman and settled in Otaki in NZ.
She never went back to visit and no one in my family has ever been.
So it was a very special moment as the train pulled into Livorno.
I expected something. I don't know what. But something.

I got the strange moment on the bus to Miramare. (I went to Miramar primary school in Wellington, NZ.)
As the bus drove by the big deserted square with the two statues, early in the morning, just the sea breeze blowing in, I got the strangest feeling.
Later in the day I walked back to the square.
Now there were people about. But it was still haunted.
I have only one question.
Why is one statue and the steps around it absolutely covered with pigeon poop, while the other statue is poop free?

Pros and Cons
  • Pros:Not very beautiful, not many tourists.
  • Cons:I was too scared to cross the road.
  • In a nutshell:Tons of don't give a damn.
  • Last visit to Livorno: Jul 2004
  • Intro Updated May 20, 2007
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Reviews (14)

Comments (88)

  • Nemorino's Profile Photo
    Mar 31, 2013 at 3:59 AM

    I was doing research on something else entirely when I came across a reference to Livourne, which turns out to be the French word for Leghorn, which turns out to be the English word for Livorno. It seems Livorno once had a prison in a former bathhouse, and this circumstance led to the most brutal prison colonies being called “le bagne” in French.
    (Or that prison-bathhouse might have been in Constantinople aka Istanbul, depending on which website you read.)
    Anyway, I much enjoyed reading your Livorno tips and I second your suggestion that the Livornese should get out of their cars and off their vespas and into the buses and onto their bicycles.
    Helmets, however, are an Australian superstition that should not be imposed on Europeans. I do wear a helmet myself while cycling, but that is only because of my advanced age and medical history.
    "Why the Dutch don't wear bicycle helmets" - Cycling Tip by Nemorino
    "Why I still wear a bicycle helmet..." - Cycling Tip by Nemorino

  • deecat's Profile Photo
    Aug 2, 2010 at 3:21 PM

    Unique writing style that keeps one "glued" to the pages. I'm glad that I did not spend time here...seems too "over the top" with traffic, dirty looks, and sun-baked bodies! Great introduction.

  • BruceDunning's Profile Photo
    Nov 28, 2009 at 3:34 PM

    We got to here, but could not find a parking place-so left disappointed. Thanks for the pictures & tips. My Utah & Arizona parks trip was wide open space and wonderful color. Take a look to enjoy.

  • tiabunna's Profile Photo
    Jun 6, 2009 at 1:00 AM

    Lost internet before completing my visit last night! Seems a mixed bag for a visit, but an enjoyable read.

  • junecorlett's Profile Photo
    Apr 15, 2009 at 8:20 AM

    Great tips , thanks for sharing.

  • Arkeolog's Profile Photo
    Apr 5, 2009 at 11:04 AM

    great page on Livorno. I liked your tips and photos. Bora

  • maykal's Profile Photo
    Jan 18, 2009 at 10:00 AM

    Not sure if I should be, but your tips made me giggle at the thought of someone crunching themselves on a vespa! Think I found your seaside church... ;@p

  • aussiedoug's Profile Photo
    Oct 20, 2008 at 3:41 AM

    Ah Jen, what a read. Only you could write so eloquently (& entertainingly) about 2 vespa prangs. Now I know why I have a bit of middle aged spread too. Sit down to drink my coffee and stay a while to read! Will I lose it in italia?

  • JLBG's Profile Photo
    Jun 1, 2008 at 9:37 PM

    Why birds choose one statue or tree to perch is always a great mystery! Waves may be! Wow, the traffic seems to be really impressive! An amazing page!

  • calcaf38's Profile Photo
    May 3, 2008 at 3:44 PM

    Great page, and great photos, Jen. You really bring across the tinta of Livorno through your offbeat experiences. And thank you for trekking through my Peru pages: if you visit only one place in S. America, Peru should be it.

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