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"Verona felt a little jaded. Or maybe... " a Verona Travel Page by craic

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"Verona felt a little jaded. Or maybe... " a Verona Travel Page by craic

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Real Name: Jennifer Compton
Lives In: Upwey, AU
Member Since: Nov 27, 2002
VT Rank: 187

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Page Views: 352            Last Visit to Verona: December, 2007      

Verona felt a little jaded. Or maybe that was us.

by craic - last update: Jan 23, 2008

My friend in Genoa had given me a book he had been instrumental in called In Venice And In The Veneto With Ezra Pound. It had a chapter on Verona and I planned to read it on the train to prepare myself.
But our train to Milan was packed and running late. So we missed our connection. And had to find out how to get onto the next train and the guard said there were no spare seats (although there seemed to be hundreds of spare seats) so we crouched in the corridor with our huge suitcases and were a perfect nuisance to everybody. So I didn't read it.
I read it when I got home and how I laughed when I got to the bit about the Ristorante dei Dodici Apostoli. Because the well known VTer domenicococozza.had strongly recommended it to me. If I had known then what I know now, I would have been seriously tempted.
Pound used to eat there a lot when it was a simple restaurant at cab driver level where one might meet an affable putana. Pound dedicated his book Guido Cavalcanti Rime to his friend Manlio Dazzi - che ha mangiato 'Ai Dodici Apostoli' - and there in Canto 74 is the ultimate reason to make a pilgrimage to this literary shrine. And maybe even have a meal.

Trattoria degli Apostoli (dodici)
"Ecco il te" said the head waiter
in 1912 explaining its mysteries to the piccolo
with a teapot from another hotel
"Dodici apostoli (trattoria)
and the affable putana (whore) wanting to adjust the spelling of Guido
as it is not in the "Capitolare".

And as I was totally unprepared I do not even have a photo!
Here is domenico's email to me when I told him what good advice he had given me - which I didn't pick up on.

"Hey Jen, I did know about the Putane and 12 Apostoli. But that's only half of it. Some years ago, electricians were digging a hole in the floor of the cellar and a part of it collapsed, creating a void. After investigating, a Roman road and 2 shrines were found. The restaurant paid for the excavation and it's now possible to view this area."

So maybe that is the restaurant to go to. Address - Corticella San Marco 3.

(And that is a statue of a poet - a local poet who must have been quite good or he wouldn't have got a statue.)

> Add to your Custom Travel Guide [What's This?]

Pros:"Well it is very beautiful. No doubt about that."
Cons:"Seemed very dull. No discernable buzz. Nightlife well hidden."
In A Nutshell:"Better try again at a different time of the year."
craic's Verona Travel Tips

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Nightlife
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Off The Beaten Path
 
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Comments for craic about Verona
Bwana_Brown Thu Oct 22, 2009 11:51 UTC
 Gosh Jenn, I don't know what is going to become of you with listening to all that jazz while drinking wine and wishing you could smoke too! Thanks for the all the laughs on this great little page!
JLBG Fri Jul 3, 2009 05:47 UTC
 Great story about the Dodici apostoli ! Your search for nightlife is exhilarating! So is your Romeo and Juliette's stories! Haha, I did'nt know Fnac had shops outside France;
Zvrlj Wed Jun 17, 2009 07:12 UTC
 We have joined VT after "Juliet's house" :-D For our next visit we have prepared and we have spent a day in Castelvecchio museum (it has one of the most marvelous monuments ever - Cangrande Della Scala). Funny, but we have not started our Verona page yet.
lynnehamman Tue May 26, 2009 15:41 UTC
 What an amusing account of your visit to Verona. Great that you kept a sense of humour! It always helps. The nightlife tip-bravo that you had a fun time. And....er...those 'red lips' reminded me of Mick Jagger! LOL!
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