Relax at Lake Kivu and other Rwanda Things to Do Tips

Lake Kivu is a large deposit of fresh water that marks the western border with DR Congo.

There are some excellent places to stay on the Lakeside such as Kibuye and -especially-Gisenyi.

The water is safe to swim (but just ask locally to be completely sure), there are nice beaches, gorgeous landscapes and the sunsets are regularly stunning.

***see "accommodation tips" for some good places to stay***

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This extraordinarily beautiful Parc Nationale consists of an impressive chain of 5 inactive volcanoes that hosts some groups of the highly endangered mountain gorilla.

Amongst the various eco-tourism options are gorillatracking, hiking up (some of the) volcanoes, walks to a group of rare golden monkeys or an excursion to Dian Fossey's burial site.

The common base for exploring the National Park is the small town of Ruhengeri.

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Directions: * Kigali - Ruhengeri takes 1,5 hr by minibus;
* Border Uganda - Ruhengeri takes about 1 hour by minibus;

In Ruhengeri the ORTPN-office has all the info. you can book there as well.

Even if you don't go for the gorillas, there's still enough reason to visit the Parc, as I found out.

As volcanoes are one of my passions, the presence of 5 more or less free standing and beautifully shaped volcanoes in a chain was sufficient reason for me to hang around a couple of days.

The NP-office offers guided climbs to the top of 2 of them, Visoke (3711m) and Karisimbi* (4705m -the tallest). The latter has only been opened for climbers since the summer of 2002!

Plans have been made to organise an amazing 1 week trek to all the summits, but trails have still to be cleared.

Note: 2 of the 3 not yet accessible peaks can be climbed from Uganda side: Gahinga (3474m) and Muhabura (4127m)

***see also my "Uganda-Mgahinga NP" page!***

The climbs to the summits are not technical and can be done by fit hikers. The scenery is great! However, the trek to Karisimbi's summit is an overnight trek and should be prepared properly (f.e. food, cold).

During my stay there was a lot, A LOT of rain and the clouds covered Karisimbi most of the day. I only climbed Visoke (aka Bisoke), which took about 5 hours roundtrip from the Parc entrance.

**See also my impressions in the travelogue**!

The official rates (2003):
--- Gorilla Tracking $250/ 1 hour permit
--- Climbing Visoke $40
--- Climbing Karisimbi $100 (overnight)
includes permit, guiding and protection only.
If you are only 1 or 2, transport might be arranged in the Park vehicle for free. Otherwise you have to charter expensive 4WD taxi.

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What happened in Rwanda in 1994 was one of the most horrible and shocking things in human history.

If you could not find refuge, you had only 1 choice: kill or be killed. An estimated 800.000 people of the Tutsi tribe and moderate Hutus were brutally slaughtered in only 3 months time.

When travelling Rwanda it's hardly imaginable that the people carry a history like that. There's such a peaceful and friendly mood in the places that I visited.

That said, it's important to visit one of the genocide memorials to understand Rwanda and to show respect to the survivors that carry such terrible memories. Bones and skulls are on display around some of the massgraves that makes it all an even more shivering experience.

Only in the Kibuye region about 60.000 people were killed (the majority in only 2 weeks' time), which equalled 83% of the Tutsi population.

You can visit the RC church on the top of a hill just outside Kibuye town, where about 500 people were killed after they sought refuge.

Another site is in the hills at Bisesero, where about 13.000 Tutsi managed to defend themselves for a month after the start of the genocide.

Other memorial sites are f.e. in Nyamata and Ntarama, some 20-30 km south of Kigali.

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If you happen to cross the border with Tanzania at Rusumo -yes this is a very suitable and fussless overland option- don't forget to see the falls.

Visas for both countries are available on the border, although for Rwanda I would recommend that you get it in advance since you'll get a multiple entry 1month visa for the same price as a 15 days single entry on the border.

True March 2003

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