Bordercrossing Wli (Ghana) – Yikpa Dafo (Togo) and other Togo Things to Do Tips

If you plan to visit Ghana’s Volta Region and also the hills of Western Togo around Kpalimé, – then this minor bordercrossing might be a nice option!

The borderposts are located along a road that traverses the very scenic Agumatsu “mountain” range.

You reach the Ghanaian checkpoint after about 10 minutes by foot, coming from the Ghanaian village of Wli (near the “famous” waterfalls). From there you walk 15 more minutes to the Togolese village of Yikpa Dafo, where you should find the officer in charge to stamp your passport.

On both sides few minibuses serve the pretty villages and if you cross early, you shouldn’t have to wait much longer than an hour or 2 for a departure. The Ghanaian tro-tro’s will take you straight to Hohoe, while the Togolese taxi brousses stop at N’Digbe (on the Danyi Plateau) and Adéta, where you can change to Kpalimé.

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The town of Kpalimé is situated near the beautiful hills that form the border with Ghana and is a good base for excursions out of town.

I had crossed the border with Ghana on purpose near Kpalimé; the descriptions in the guidebooks were appealing a lot. But I forgot to realise that this range of hills was exactly the same as the one in Ghana where I just spent about 10 days.

Same type of flora and fauna, even the same tribe (Ewe-people). Besides the language, the money, the increased numbers of roadblocks and the number of people squeezed inside one car, nothing else had changed much.

So I wasn’t too much fancy to be active in the hills anymore and instead left the next morning to Lomé!

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The Togolese capital Lomé (pop. ca. 700.000) is a vibrant and rather pleasant city – for a capital city – to spend a couple of days.

On arrival I took a moto taxi ($0,30 for a ride in the centre) to the cosy French owned Auberge de Gaulion. Rooms (s/c) here are run down and cost $8, but is otherwise a great place to have some drinks and a decent meal.

I walked along the shady boulevard to the Grand Marche, where all movement in Lomé seems to lead to! Took some CFA’s from the ATM on my VISA card and stepped in the bustling gigantic central market, an overwhelming experience.

A young English-speaking fellow approached me who proposed to show me around and to bring me then to Marché des Féticheurs. Especially on the first day in a big city it’s not easy to get around. And he only asked for a small dash in return, so why not...

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This highly unusual market is a must see for those with interest in all kinds of ingredients for voodoo practise and traditional medicines.

You can have a consult with the fetish doctor as well, if you like…

The trade of the 20 something stalls largely consists of mummified animals, animal skins, primate and other skulls and such things like voodoo dolls.

To get there, go to the shared taxi stand (taxi brousse, cost less than $1) on Grand Marché and ask for Akodessewa.

*** Look for more examples of trade under shopping tips ***

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Some may regard the fetish market as a tourist trap for the way the market fellows are pushing you to spend money, but it is not as bad as the $9 that the Lonely Planet writer apparently paid.

After strong bargaining I ended up spending $0,75 for a self appointed but otherwise quite useful guide, $2 for the fetish priest (doctor) who sold me a stone that hopefully gives good memory and a combined sum of $0,50 to several children aggressively preventing me to take pictures at their stands.

Since I don’t have the impression that there’s much business for the traders, it’s understandable that they want to charge tourists. In return you probably just visited and took pictures at one of the most unusual markets you’ve seen in your life!!

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Lomé lies right at the sea and its boulevard is lined with rows of palm trees and accompanied by a beautiful wide beach.

Sunbathing (in swimsuits) is uncommon here and swimming dangerous due to the strong currents, but it’s a great place to socialize and enjoy the cool breeze and great views. On nice Sunday afternoons thousands of people gather here while at sunrises you might like to join hundreds of joggers!

The only “hassle” are the teenage boys who clit at you to “become friends” hoping for a sponsorship.

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One of the few places where it’s safe to swim and more common to sunbath is the stretch of beach just outside town around the Robinson’s Resort.

About 50 meters from the shore is a barrier that breaks the currents, which makes swimming safe. The resort has a private beach, bar and restaurant. Expatriates mention this as the best beach in Togo, but I’m pretty sure it must be sarcastic.

The beach is not great and the views are a bit disturbed by the port and several remains of old structures along the shore, but it is certainly the only beach where locals – who cannot afford paying $1,75 for a beer - are kept outside.

That said if you’re keen on attracting lot of attention, you could use the public beach in-between the Port and Robinson’s as well. At the thatched huts on the dune, you may buy from and smoke grass with the local Rastafarian community, but to be honest: I wouldn’t try it in a country like Togo.

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Kara (pop. 50000) is a relaxed, somewhat boring town some 400 km. north of Lomé, a great place for a stopover or as a base for excursions to nearby hills and villages.

For me Kara was nothing more than a pleasant stopover on my way to Benin via the Tamberma Valley and I remember the place mostly for a long conversation (in German) with a local teacher about political and social conditions in Togo, which was really eye opening.

It’s the Kabye tribe that settled here, attracted by the fertile land. The interesting local market is rich in agricultural- and crafts products and is worth a short visit. You can also explore the surroundings by bicycle or car; the attractions being the villages (traditional architecture and crafts) and the hills. If you want to spend a lot of money on a guided tour by rented car around northern Togo, you may like to see a guy named Leo Paul, who charges an exorbitant guide fee of $35 a day, though.

Kara is officially the place to have formalities done when leaving Togo to Benin through the Tamberma Valley (Nadoba - Boukoumbé), but there’s no Togolese checkpoint there when I passed, so why bother...

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