Cocktails and ambience, Paris style and other Paris, France Nightlife Tips

Nightlife Spot: Rosebud

On my "home" street in Montparnasse (rue Delambre) lives my all-time favorite little bar, Rosebud

It has unique ambience at night...
right down to the deep subdued lighting, the eccentric regulars and the well-dressed, talented bartenders.

Parisians are sitting all around you, sipping their cocktails, smoking & speaking softly (sometimes) to each other. Usually there are few if any tourists, due to the non-descript facade and the clientele.

If someone was to try to invent the perfect Paris whiskey bar for:

- a drink:
- some typically French quiet & intimate conversation;
- the occasional mildly raucous incident of alchol-influenced behaviour;
- accessorized with the optional cigarette (must be a Camel or Gaulois);

Rosebud would be the result.

Rosebud has an earthy Paris/Montparnasse-bar vibe: ..... I am a whisky lover, and I think Rosebud's white tuxedo-clad bartenders make the best whiskey sour I have ever had in my life.

♫♫.... oh show me... the way
....... to the next ..... whiskee bah......
..........ohhh don't ask why.... ohhh don't ask why....♫♫

above copyright - Doors' version of a song written by Berthold Brecht & Kurt Weill for the operetta
Rise And Fall of The City of Mahagonny (1930)

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As naive as it sounds: If you have ever fantasized about casually sipping a cocktail in a very Paris, very french bar, while you converse in accented french, using a cigarette in your hand as a prop..... you'd love this place.

NOTE: If you go to Paris and you are intolerant of people smoking around you:
(I rarely smoke, but I'm not obsessive one way or the other about it either)
..... Then good luck... sometimes it seems like everyone smokes everywhere in Paris .... better take a gas mask, though this is subtly changing;

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Theme: Eating and Drinking
Dress Code: I have been a customer & fan of Rosebud since October 2001.
Businessmen or tourists who by mistake wander into Rosebud either dressed up to the 9s or wearing tourist slob gear might feel a little uncomfortable very quickly.

Dress for casual Paris cocktails.

Some of the clientele can be a trifle "colorful,"
but the world-class bartenders are professionals not only at preparing cocktails, but also keeping the peace as well.

A review here:
Rosebud

I have some fun stories about things that happened to me in Rosebud during times I spent there (parisien-femme catfights etc), but later for that.

Unfortunately Orson Welles did not make an appearance any of the nights I was there.

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Phone: 01 43 35 38 54
Address: 11 bis, Rue Delambre Montparnasse
Directions: (2 Metro stops) ligne 4 - Vavin or ligne 6 - Edgar Quinet.
Just down & across rue Delambre (sw) from le Dome;
In case of too many whiskys or closed Metro: taxi from nearby Pl Denfert-Rochereau - Phone: 01.45.35.00.00
Website: http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/europe/france/paris/attraction-detail.html?vid=1154654659496

Nightlife Spot: Le Caveau des Oubliettes

My favorite music spot in Paris. Le Caveau des Oubliettes ("the cellar of the forgotten") comes highly recommended from lots of people / sources when the subject is Latin Quarter nightlife.

This place is much hotter, more intimate, and has imo much better music than Le Caveau de la Huchette just a street or two away. Same layout as Huchette (upstairs pub, downstairs music cellar in the "dungeon") but Oubliettes is really tight for space and has a more bohemian atmosphere. It's my kind of place, as the music starts late and runs very late.

It can get hot in the small cellar where the music is happening. It had to be almost 80+ deg F & very humid: definitely not for the claustrophobic. But the the place was packed, full of energy, & the music was really good.

Rarely anywhere to sit down and (as opposed to Le Caveau de la Huchette) no room for dancing: grab a drink in the Guillotine pub upstairs and then cruise downstairs to the cellar, as there can't be more than about 50 - 60 seats total in front of the stage. You need to squeeze by lots of people standing outside the cellar alcove on the stairs.

The music is some of the better live club music I have heard in Paris.
Much more modern, edgy, original in sound. Format varies from nite-to-nite (check the website / myspace page). I think it's jam sessions on Mondays; Wed - Afro/Cuban/Latin, Thurs -Funk; Fri/Sat Jazz/Bebop & Sun - Blues. I got there a little before or around midnight and it was cookin' (literally).
Highly recommended. Though hot & crowded, Le Caveau des Oubliettes is the real deal and one of my live music faves in Paris.

Info: Les Caveau des Oubliettes has a decent page @ myspace and the website has some fotos, the music calendar, and some history.

There is also a good cabaret with upstairs chanteuse/piano - downstairs hot r&b cellar club that has an outside terrace right next door called Aux Trois Mailletz. More upscale funk venue in their cellar, you can cool off from Oubliettes on their terrace, then dive into their cellar. It was really fun, funky & happening in the Mailletz cellar also.

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If you never get to go there, here is a taste of what it's like - check out this video of Nawful - an excellent young guitarist jamming in the Oubliettes' dungeon.

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and rock junkies - nawful will kill you HERE

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Theme: Live Music
Dress Code: Anything goes, totally street / young-energetic almost-bohemian with no pretense. Everyone is there for the music and to have fun, not to be "seen."
... " ... against my cheek i feel the cool, stinging tile ... "
Phone: 01.46.34.23.09
Address: 52, rue Galande 75005
Directions: Corner Rue Galande & rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre
From Metro St-Michel wander sw from rue Huchette on rue de la Harpe towards rue Saint Jacques (look 4 Gothic church Saint Severin), or from the other direction walking NW from Metro : Maubert Mutualite
Website: http://www.caveaudesoubliettes.com/accueil.php

Nightlife Spot: Aux Trois Mailletz

Right next to Caveau de Oubliettes on rue Gallande is Aux Trois Mailletz.

Aux Trois Mailletz has good piano / chanteuse sing-along upstairs, and funky cabaret down in the cellar. Both were very good.

I also really like the terrace outside on rue Gallande with the view of the gothic cathedral St. Severin, where you can people-watch, enjoy the Latin Quarter street-vibe, and eavesdrop on couples playing the dating / mating games I fondly remember yet do not miss (little french needed, lots of english-speaking students trying to hook up with french girls & vice versa).

Dinner at Mailletz supposedly isn't bad either, but I had already eaten.

A great 2-for-1, jazz blues hot bohemian cellar next door @ Oubliettes, then cool off at the slightly more upscale Mailletz next door. Paris nightlife in my opinion at its very best.

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Theme: Nightclub
Dress Code: Casual
Phone: 33-1-43-54-00-79
Address: 56 Rue Galande
Directions: Metro St.-Michel or from Southeast Maubert Mutualite and walk to the corner of rue Gallande.

Nightlife Spot: New Morning

Whatever your age, taste, musical preference or background, (imho) a trip to Paris is not complete without a night of jazz.

New Morning is one of the better jazz clubs in Paris.

Has had all the greats from the past, and all the hot new acts.

It's all about music (no food) and it even manages to close almost early enough to catch the late Metro back to the hotel. Really a good deal for the money (15-20 Euros/head + drinks).

Be there by 8:00pm or reserve a ticket as it fills up quick if a "known" or popular act is playing.

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Theme: Live Music
Dress Code: All different kinds, almost anything works here. Says "no smoking" but there's lots of smoke.
Phone: +33 (0)1 45 23 51 41
Address: 7 & 9 Rue des Petites Ecuries 75010
Directions: Metro Chateau d'Eau - If you miss the Metro the closest taxi stand I know of is Métro Richelieu-Drouet - Phone: 01.42.46.00.00 but ask them to call you one from somewhere closer to save a little money
Website: http://www.newmorning.com

Nightlife Spot: Bistrot de la Gaite & Theatre de la Gaite

On la Gaite in Montparnasse there are theaters and bistros with shows earlier in the evening.

Later on, around and after midnight, the theater district on rue de la Gaite becomes a little more racy and strange.

Here (foto) is a "chanteuse" at the Bistrot de la Gaite near Bobino Music Hall when she paid homage to Edith Piaf.

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Theme: Theater
Dress Code: Dress up
and if you might be as Paris-crazee' as me:
get a whiff of this
Address: Look on the poster in the pic
Directions: la Gaite runs from rue Delambre in Montparnasse by Mo: Edgar Quinet south to Mo: Gaite.

Nightlife Spot: Crazy Horse

A Paris institution since the fifties, some might list the Crazy Horse under "Tourist Traps" rather than nightlife.

I think the Crazy Horse is a classic, upscale "Paris" version of the Vegas strip cabarets (most of the ladies seem to be American or Brit), but it has Parisian style and the lighting & production of the show are first rate.

(I was not allowed to take pix of the show inside, even w/out flash) so Click below for some info on the current show....
Crazy Horse
Take the tour, solve the puzzle to see the "goodies"

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Definitely not cheap, most dinner/show packages cost between 100/150 Euros/person (includes dinner at close-by restaurants like Fouquets). Just drinks in the bar (2) are 50 Euro.

If you have the money and are in the mood for a well-staged show "erotique" then I would recommend it over Moulin Rouge or Lido, though the show at Crazy Horse is definitely more nude cabaret style. It is after all, despite all the excellent production, pretense and frills, a strip club.

All the prices at the website listed below.

If you appreciate cabaret staging/production and are a fan of
the Iluminated female form (& have Euros to burn),
Crazy Horse is good harmless "touristy" fun.

... Have you ever been ... to electric ladyland? ...

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Mimi & Schuider also work stretches of George V close to the Champs so say
"bon soir," give the dog a pat and please share a little cash if you bump into her.

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Theme: Adult Spot
Dress Code: Upscale club dress is recommended, but the "Mounties" that serve as the doormen are not too strict as long as you don't push it. Dress up.
Phone: + 33 (0)1 47 23 97 90
Address: 12 ave George V, 75008
Directions: Metro: Alma Marceau (ligne 9) or a stroll towards the river from George V on the Champs (ligne 1)
Website: http://www.lecrazyhorseparis.com

Nightlife Spot: Duc des Lombards

One of the more known "name" jazz clubs not only in Paris but in the world is Duc des Lombards. It has a cool ambience / decor, and the musicians are sometimes top notch.

Paris has lots of jazz clubs all over town. You can check Pariscope or just type "Paris Jazz Clubs" into google and you'll find them.
The excellent and now defunct Paris Jazz Valley web site:
Jazz Valley (RIP)

used to list them all in both english and french with much info. I'm looking for another link in both french and english.

If you exit Duc des Lombards after 12:30 am and the Metro is closed, you can get a taxi from the nearby Place du Chatelet by calling Pl. Châtelet Taxi - Phone: 01.42.33.20.99

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Theme: Nightclub
Dress Code: no tie, but dress up same as in going out to a club anywhere.

Note:
Shows start at 9:30 pm, so locate where the taxi stands are, as the Metro may be closed when you leave the club.
Phone: 33 1 42 33 22 88
Address: 42, rue des Lombards
Directions: NW corner of rue des Lombards and Blvd de Sebastopol - M: Châtelet. - walk 1 street N to r. St-Denis and then right on r. des Lombards,
or - from Metro Chatelet stroll up north on the colorful rue Saint-Denis, then turn right (east) on rue des Lombards.
Website: http://www.ducdeslombards.fr/
Other Contact: Search web for Duc des Lombards

Nightlife Spot: Rue de la Gaite

I sometimes have a tendency to get myself into weird situations.

One night on my first trip to Paris, well past midnight after "more than a few" drinks I was wandering alone from a Montparnasse cafe back to my hotel, when I accidentally took a wrong turn.

I ended up on this very bizarre street in the Montparnasse theater district: Rue de la Gaite.
It is populated with theaters, bistros, and a few strange little clubs/cabarets that are adult-oriented.

Suddenly out of the dark & from nowhere a thin, well-dressed Parisian man appeared and stepped in stride with me, speaking softly in french. Then without a word he gently pulled me by the arm into one of the clubs. In one of those spooky moments of surrender, without resistance or protest I let him guide me inside to a table.
- I'm not even sure the club he pulled me into was on Gaite
... it could have been one of the quieter "swing" joints on nearby Edgar Quinet

Looking around I noticed that other than myself, the place was virtually empty. A glass of red wine appeared on my table a few seconds later.

Women of all nationalities, 1-at-a-time, (some actually somewhat attractive) emerged from behind a curtain on a stage, sat down at my table & asked me if I wanted to sleep with them. (price was not mentioned)
Welcome to a misogynist hell of "Pimps Up... Hoes Down" - dans le modèle de Paris.

Saying "No" did not offend any of them, they would just smile, get up & leave, only to be immediately replaced by someone else.

This strange little comedy continued for 10 minutes:

- Girl # 7: "Voulez-vous coucher avec moi monsieur?" ...
or some equivalent ... hey ... I was hammered and a little preoccupied - I don't remember ...

- me.. "Non, merci madame."

- Girl # 7 "Merci monsieur...Au revoir"

next girl (#8)... rinse&repeat....

Eventually I finished my wine (there was no bill brought to the table... odd for a hustle-joint like this), got my bearings for the door, rose, stepped out of the club to the dark and empty Rue de la Gaite, and casually strolled back to my hotel.
The whole experience was both strange and funny, almost like a dream or a scene out of a late-nite "b" movie.

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Theme: Adult Spot
Dress Code: Hide your wallet.
Address: Rue de la Gaite Metro: Edgar Quinet or Gaite
Directions: Walk south late at night from Metro stop Edgar Quinet on Rue de la Gaite

Nightlife Spot: Caveau de la Huchette

More Paris Jazz.
A little more intimate than Duc d Lombard, in a "cave" in St. Michel. The downstairs cave is a very good place to dance to traditional jazz.

Some strange things were happening in the back room of the cave.

A very old cellar in Paris, supposedly Robespierre was tried and convicted here ...
(chop)

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Theme: Live Music
Dress Code: Casual.
It is hot, humid and fun in the basement cave where the music and dancing are happening.

Cooler but boring in the upstairs bar.
Phone: 01 43 26 65 05
Address: 5 Rue de la Huchette 75005 PARIS
Directions: Metro: St-Michel ou Cite (pres de Notre Dame) If you exit Caveau de la Huchette after 12:30 am and the Metro is closed, you can get a taxi from the nearby Pl St-Michel by calling Pl. St. Michel - Phone: 01.43.29.63.66
Website: http://www.caveaudelahuchette.fr

Nightlife Spot: Bombardier

I was strolling the Place du Pantheon around sunset / happy-hour when I lucked out & stumbled on this place: a decent little bar beerpub called the Bombardier.
Bombardier has some things going for it. It has a really scenic outdoor terrace right next to the Pantheon.

It's quite "pubby" inside with so many great ales & beers to choose from (though some of the pumps appeared to be fake); dartboards, expat staff/owners, sports on tvs, ... the whole shot.

All the people sitting outside were very friendly (mostly locals with a few tourists like me, and the terrace was already packed by around 6PM) just mellowing out watching the sunset with their favorite ale & pubgrub. I liked the feel of the Bombardier and will probably make a point to return anytime I'm in the neighborhood

Though to the obsessive purist maybe not a perfectly "authentic" (whatever that means anymore) Brit pub, Bombardier was close enough for rock&roll, and one of those really pleasant Paris surprises, reinforcing the old saying:

" Make a wrong turn in Paris & something good is bound to come from it ."


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Theme: Eating and Drinking
Dress Code: Casual like in my pic
Phone: 01 43 54 79 22
Address: 2, Place du Pantheon Paris 75005
Directions: Just a couple of streets west of Metro Cardinal Lemoine, follow rue Clovis west to Place du Pantheon, or if you circle the Place Pantheon you will run into it on the north side of the Pantheon.