"City of Angels" a Bangkok Travel Page by M0B1US

Despite the pollution, some of the worst traffic jams in Asia, and the almost constant rip-off attempts - this is a vibrant and dynamic city full of life!

It is perhaps because of the hectic and chaotic pace of life of a young city in the extreme throes of rapid development that I was warned it was a terrible place to visit and feared the worst. However, I was determined not to pass up the opportunity of taking some time to explore this great city seeing as I was going to have to fly out from the place anyway...

Upon arrival, it is easy to understand why many people develop an instant dislike for the place, thrust as we were into the seething and anarchic centre of this city as we stepped off the train at Haulamphong Station.

However, after an initial time spent orientating ourselves and organising our hotel, we were able to take control of the situation and were able to stay at the Royal Hotel in the heart of the Banglamphu District of the old city.

I think it helped fearing the worst, as I actually found the old city of Bangkok quite pleasant with open spaces with many of the best sights in easy walking distance of each other.

The Highlight of visiting Bangkok is most definitely seeing the many Wats throughout the city, of which Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, Wat Po, Wat Traimit and Wat Arun are the most visited.

One of the other things I really enjoyed was seeing just how much Buddhism permeates Thai culture from seeing the Buddhist monks in their saffron robes travelling on the ferry for free - to one of our taxi drivers who had a picture of himself when he took his Buddhist rites, on the dashboard of his car...

The food was fantastic, the bargaining was great and you couldn't help feel alive in a city that felt like it was moving at a hundred miles an hour all around you.

I was pleasantly surprised with Bangkok, I loved my time here and it was only for a taster that we came just in case all the warnings were true - I will be back!

OK, why do people hate this city so much because really, it ain't that bad?

Well first off, I'd say 'Avoid Summer!'

Many people I have spoken to absolutely hated Bangkok because of the stifling humidity that drenches you in sweat and makes breathing a chore. This in turn exacerbates the already dangerous levels of pollution, so anyone with any respiratory problems whatsoever should give Bangkok a wide berth at this time of year...

In January I found it to be hot (30c) but bearable and not too humid, I found that without rushing I was perfectly happy in that temperature. Also the pollution didn't seem any worse than say a London rush hour - certainly no need for a mask or anything, except maybe for the SARS epidemic although those risks are extremely low... :-(

The worst pollution I ever experienced was over a decade ago in Athens and this is nothing compared to that.

Another thing to avoid are the rush hours as being stuck in the stinking pollution of a Bangkok traffic jam for hours on end during your holiday would be no fun whatsoever.

The two main ways to avoid these are by taking a ferry on the Chao Phraya and also the BTS Skytrain when you can as they are by far the most efficient means of travel throughout the city.

Otherwise, common sense such as not travelling at the same time as Thais are heading to or from work and the fact that the traffic in the old city seemed far more free flowing than in the busier and more modern parts of the city.

Finally, keep your wits about you as there are too many dishonest operators out there trying to make a fast buck one way or another out of unsuspecting tourists - check out my 'warnings and dangers' section on this page...!

If you follow the three pieces of advice above, I really don't see why you can't have a very enjoyable time in Bangkok at all...

My suggestions for things to do are:

Check out the Wats, specifically the four most visited ones. The reclining Buddha at Wat Po really was something else!

Go to the Chatuchak Weekend Market, this place was a city unto itself - easily the biggest market I've ever been to and that is including the markets of Istanbul! Take the BTS Skytrain to get there.

Take a ferry on the Chao Phraya River, apart from being one of the best ways to avoid the traffic of Bangkok this is a fantastic way to see the city.

Patpong Night Market District - yes it is the red light district, but that is part of what makes Bangkok, Bangkok. We just toured the massive night market outside the many bars and clubs in a slightly voyeuristic manner...

There are far more things to do in Bangkok, but then we only spent two nights there...

The huge snarl ups and gridlocks of Bangkoks road and highway system are world reknowned! These jams are not for the faint hearted as if you get caught at the wrong time you have the potential for being trapped in traffic for hours on end in a thick soup of pollution and, if you're there at the wrong time of year, stifling humidity...

Exploring the options:

Boat - River travel on the Chao Phraya is by far and away the best mode of transport as it is a much more interesting and peacful way to see the city without having to fight your way through the city's terrible traffic. Because of this it is also much faster and extremely cheap.

The easiest ferry to use is the Chao Phraya River Express which comes in two flavours, one which stops at each of the many landing points for a mere 6-10B and the quicker express (recognised by a red and orange flag) for 10B.

BTS Skytrain - Opened in Dec 1999 this elevated monorail was meant to be the answer to Bangkok's transport woes. If you are staying in or visiting the newer eastern part of town, it is THE way to get around!

It is a modern, simple to use and above all, air conditioned transit system on two lines linking a great number of the best shopping and hotel districts of Bangkok. It also links to the Chao Phraya river to the south, the Pat Pong district and runs out to the vast Chatuchak Weekend market.

Its only failing is the fact that it does not serve the old part of town, meaning that you still have to rely on Bangkok's streets to visit its most important historic monuments.

Taxi - These are probably the best way to get around the roads as they are cheap by western standards with a set distance based fare and air conditioned for those nasty jams. In the main they are trustworthy and fast as it doesn't pay them to be stuck in traffic with a fare - just make sure they take the quickest route!

Bus - These are frequent and extremely cheap, however in our experience they were not as convenient as the taxis for comfort and hassle - if you must economise, by all means take them. Get a map from a tourist shop or newstand - watch out as there are some poor maps floating around...

Tuk Tuk - These little tricycles seem to be the bane of western tourists, everyone warns you about their scam tactics where instead of taking you to your destination they will drive you to craftshops etc in an attempt to 'extort' money out of you. It just seemed like too much hassle to bother with them really...