Early birds, welcome ! and other Antananarivo, Madagascar Things to Do Tips

To soak up the ambience on market places, in the streets, in the fields, you'll have to wake up earlier than in say, Europe.

It's customary that work and school start at 7am, at least it used to be so at high school. At 5.30am, you'd see the first stalls in Analakely market opening. Seeing them getting ready for the day is so picturesque: some ploying their big umbrellas (white, mostly) that are perched on old tyre rims, others displaying their flowers on the stalls, in big barrels. Also, they may start out the day with a breakfast from the foodstalls around: hot coffee served in aluminium mugs, mofogasy with some chat with friends.

Same goes for the peasants who use to wake up and break the silence in which rural villages use to bath in from sunset till the morning. You'll hear the cock call at around 5am too. Little by little, you'll hear in the street the sound of a oxcart cruising and digging the path with their wheels (aaargh!).

Also, evenings come early. In bed at 9pm except when you go out, clubbing, at restaurant... To not miss that much, wake up early, have some stroll around your hotel if your travel companions are not ready yet.

Talk to the hotel personnel, to taxi drivers in front of the hotel, they may give you extra-info.

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Directions: Some markets: Analakely (ex-Zoma), Andravoahangy (souvenirs, artcrafts), flower market that used to be in Anosy area but it had moved. CENAM is a mall for handcrafted items (paintings, carvings, jewelry, clothing, embroidered linen, furniture... )

Whenever you wander in downtown, you'd better look up in the air. Because.. it's really worth it. You could have some unexpected perspective for a nice snapshot, be it for details on traditional houses, for the rays of light playing on the many facades on those hillsides.

Araben'ny Fahaleovantena is the obvious place to catch such a view. Andohan' Analakely also. Then, wandering around Lac Anosy (where, till lately, has stood the flower market and some handcraft market), you could enjoy the view of Antananarivo hill from front: facing the Queen's palace and the cliff from which Queen Ranavalona (18th cent.) used to throw early Christian martyrs, her political opponents. I love this view when sun is setting and orange, red, yellow light warms up the facades of those houses clinging on the cliff... and above it. No other place than downtown to grant you with the views of the "crowded" hills and the architecture of the city as you look up in the air.

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Address: Downtown

Off course, when strolling in La Haute Ville (because you will !!! you'll know why), don't forget to have looks down the hills.

I like this picture. I should have posted another more aesthetically correct one but I like it. It's like a painting, not a picture and noticed that I've seen pictures of Tana hillsides which looked like paintings.. so picturesque. Or should I say "paintinguesque ?".

Well, for me, it contains some of the mystery of this chaotic city. Made of labyrinths, not cross-ruled as other Madagascar cities. I love it !

Still wondering where La haute Ville is ? Check my General tips, then.

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Directions: A view from La Haute on the roofs of a downtown area.

Well, on your first day in Tana, you may have seen it from downtown. You may have walked the sometimes crowded slopy and sinuous cobblestone streets, talking to street vendors, bargaining or having a ride in your beige cab, being stuck in a traffic jam.

So, to escape this downtown hassle, just head to Anatirova (the royal complex, sometimes called "Manjakamiadana"). There, you may hire a guide, listen to what he says about the ancient buildings whose ruins (for some of them) may still be there and that are being reconstructed. I've done that one afternoon and must say, they know what they talk about.

Not only that, the other thing that is really worth the detour is to enjoy the view from the top.. you'll have your 360? view on Tana. Believe me it's so nice over there. Besides, you could be explained the location of the 12 sacred hills that, put together, form Greater Tana.

Locals go there: to see the reconstruction works of the arsoned buildings, or to just relax, have some fresher air. From there, we tried to spot the area where we live. For me, it was easy: just find Ambohimanga hill and try to locate the area around. It was a fine afternoon I spent over there. I was trying to locate my area when our guide asked whether I was really from there, I said "yes" since we live in the village where my Dad comes from. My Mum explained about the area where she originates too. The guide started his guess game to know from which family my Mum was (we were there incognito, we didn't give our name). Then, they started chatting about origins, history, one of my Mum's well-known ancestors (one of great historians known from our kingdom era which was sent to study to England). That was fascinating, the guide talked about what he knows from his books whilst my Mum talked about what she knows from within her family. How interesting to see people exchanging knowledge in a simple chatting. They talked like they were from the same family, about people they know. Boy, I enjoyed those views.

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Address: Anatirova Royal compound
Directions: La Haute Ville

Simply because it's difficult to snap bad pictures there.

If it's not for the settings, the architecture, it would be for a street scene, an unusual encountering, for the smiling faces of locals, the charm of the narrow, curved, upslope cobblestoned streets... for everything, indeed.

Here, a picture I took of an ensemble of houses in La Haute Ville: two wooden Malagasy style houses had been kept amongst the other Malagasy style brick houses. Since my childhood, I remember about those wooden houses. I used (and still use) to find them cute. I am glad I could have a picture of them... because who knows ? Would they still be there the next time I return ?

It' s very odd but I prefer strolling in villages in La Haute Ville. Downtown is more lively but this area is just so special with those panoramic views it offers, the picturesque ambience of the noblemen residence area, with both well-kept traditional houses, colonial houses, palaces, cathedrals...

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Directions: Off the Prime Minister Palace

Uptowns and the hillsides used to be the housing areas in the ancient times. Thus, one finds uptowns and what I call "middletowns" so packed. Remember? Antananarivo city is located in a basin, surrounded by hills. Still, La Haute Ville refers to the upper part on Antananarivo hill (ex-Analamanga hill).

The area houses the Palaces.

- Most important: Rovan' i Manjakamiadana or Queen's palace. "Rova" is translated as "Fort" but one usually names the palaces Rova. The term for "Palace" is "Lapa". Then, one should say "Lapan'i Manjakamiadana" within "Anatirova" complex. Anyways, the whole complex was arsoned in 1995 and all elements (except the stone facade) were torn down. Now under re-construction and re-opened for visits since early 2005. 20% of artefacts, documents that the premices used to contain could be saved from the flames and are now exhibited at Lapan'Andafiavaratra (see below).

- Then you have Lapan' Andafiavaratra, the ancient Prime Minister Palace. The palace was built from prerogative of Prime Minister Rainilaiarivony (19th cent.), a man from plebean family who served as a Prime Minister of three Queens for 32 years. This palace was reconstructed after it was torn down in 1976... Both the fires that blew up the main palaces in La Haute Ville are from criminal motives. The only "mystery" around them is the identity of those who order the arson. Well, not really a mystery since Malagasy people don't even wait for it to be solved anymore.
On the picture, Lapan' Andafiavaratra is that palace at the background.

- Then, the ancient Palace of Justice in Avaradrova (or "North of the fort") with its 16 columns. The place is Ambatondrafandrana ("Rafandrana stones"). Rafandrana is the name of the 3 first kings of Antananarivo (the small hill when Merina kingdom was not united yet). This monument with columns was built in 1881. It replaced a stone on which the Kings gave their speech and the place served as a court. The crossed arrows on its front represents Royal Justice.

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Address: La Haute Ville
Directions: Uphill.. uptown...

Rovan' Ambohimanga: a symbol of Tana as Tana history began here.

In 1610, Andrianjaka chose Ambohimanga ("blue city") as his place while succeeding to his father, Ralambo, a Merina king who had ruled Ambohidrabiby kingdom. From this place, Andrianjaka conquered Analamanga hill who will be later "Antananarivo city". Both Ambohimanga and (neighbour) Ambohidrabiby kingdom are located North of the city whose past kingdom is Analamanga hill.

Later, circa 1780, Andrianampoinimerina, then king of Ambohimanga, united all conquered kingdoms to form Antananarivo (with its 12 sacred hills). This was necessary to ensure peace within Merina nation (many kingdoms in Merina area were then used to fratricidal wars).

Rovan' Ambohimanga eventually served as summer palace for queens and kings of Madagascar while Manjakamiadana Palace (on Analamanga hill, in the center of nowadays Antananrivo), that was burnt years ago, became the main palace of Madagascar kingdom.

"The Royal Hill of Ambohimanga consists of a royal city and burial site, and an ensemble of sacred places. It is associated with strong feelings of national identity, and has maintained its spiritual and sacred character both in ritual practice and the popular imagination for the past 500 years. It remains a place of worship to which pilgrims come from Madagascar and elsewhere."
This a description taken from UNESCO website. Rovan' Ambohimanga is classified in UNESCO World Heritage since 2001.

Go there to see also an enclosure wall (made from clay and eggs,... yes) that has stood there for centuries.

Aah! There used to be some fady (interdicts) there:
- snails / porcpines / horses / pigs
- onions / maize / courges
- kidneys
- Europeans (foreigners, in general, used to be banned from sacred places), who are are allowed there nowadays. So, go there to visit it.

Click here to see my page of Ambohimanga.

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Address: North East of Tana (21 km)
Website: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/45c4b/1fca96/

Hira Gasy is Merina folk music. It's an expression means in a form of musical theater.

Hira gasy was introduced by King Andrianampoinimerina, late XVIII century. After succeeding in gathering all Imerina region kingdoms, thus, building the only Merina kingdom, King Andrianampoinimerina tackled challenges so as to nourish the whole population. Tools were given to peasants, markets were settled, he had dykes built so as to fit out Betsimitatatra ricefields plains.

Thousands of peasants worked there. In order to encourage them and convey royal guidelines, Andrianampoinimerina sent his best Mpikabary (orators), singers and dancers on building sites, roadworks and ricefields. As works lasted, turns were arranged so as to allow villages to send their bands. Those bands went into rivalries and thus, Hira Gasy acquired quality and originality from this frenzy competition.

To see further details on rules of Hira gasy shows, have a look at my below Tlogue "Hira gasy", in my Antananarivo page.

In general, the show may last the whole day (from morning to late night). It serves as a means to arouse society's awareness on given concerns or to give life to sacred ceremonies ("Famadihana" or reburial; circumcision).

Nowadays, Hira gasy shows may be seen in streets of urban Tana. In the past, they used to perform in Lalaben'ny Fahaleovantena (Avenue de l'Independance) area and it seems that they still perform there. Lalaben'ny Fahaleovantena is the main avenue in urban Tana, the very one in front of main train station.
I'm currently looking for the agenda of Hira Gasy artists. Keep you posted!!

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Address: Streets of urban Tana + Countryside

Since the then open-air market of Zoma was abolished and that only few stalls make the bulk of remnants of it, the market of Andravoahangy is the current main one.

This market is specialized in artcraft while in then Zoma market, you could buy flowers, food (poultry, fruits and veggies... ), clothes, tools, fabrics, medicinal plants...

Flowers and crafted items had to have their market around Anosy. Still, the last week I was there (march 2005), it was announced that authorities would move the market further away. In Anosibe, I think. I'll confirm as soon as I have the right info.

On the picture, stalls on the totoha-bato (those are stone staircases that liaise the levels of the city, there shouldn't be a marketplace but de facto, they have stalls...): a woman selling crafted items. Andravoahangy market has many of those stalls and larger choice. To go there, you'd better ask the service of a cabdriver.

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Address: Andravoahangy market (Tana)

Malagasy people used to see in wearing a lamba (square fabrics that wrap parts or whole body) self-respect, modesty, elegance. Only those who have lost their mind, crazy people and those in state of blind passion, are said to lose their lamba ("manary lamba").

As for silk lamba, "Lamba Landy" or "Lamba Arindrano", it was part of traditional Malagasy nobles clothing in Tana area. Only nobles and high class-families there could wear silk.

In Malagasy tradition, silk is used to wrap mortal remains ("razana"). In this case, it is named "Lambamena" and wraps razana of all castes. Malagasy philosophy considers razana sacred so that he/she deserves silk. When offering condolences to a family, one uses to give money as contribution in Lambamena purchase. Malagasy say "Izay sahy maty no mifono Lambamena." meaning that "One who is facing death - or dies - will be wrapped in Lambamena".

Nowadays, everybody wears silk. With the craze for beautiful and noble fabrics, raw silk is hip again amongst Malagasy fashionistas who have joined traditional-style women. The latter use to wear akotofahana for special events and ordinary cotton lamba in everyday life. Akotofahana is a pale crème raw silk that is woven in a specific way, with shimmering brocades and thin bangles.

Malagasy silk is of two kinds: silk from "Landibe" (Borocera Madagascariensis silk worm) and silk from "Landikely" (Bombyx mori silk worm).

Landibe originates from Madagascar. It is breeded in central (Ambositra, Ambatofinadrahana, Fianarantsoa, Ambalavao up to Benenitra areas) as well as in Western (Arivonimamo, Soavinandriana, Marovoay) and in South- West Malagasy regions (Betroka, Betioky, Ampanihy).

Landikely was brought by missionaires of London Missionary Society in King Radama I era (1810 -1828), from Mauritius. Bombyx mori (landikely) originates from China and Japan. Production of top-quality landikely cocoons is handled by Highlanders, esp. hilly parts of Antananarivo, Vakinankaratra (Antsirabe area) and Fianarantsoa.

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Directions: To have a chance to visit workshops, better stick to those areas. I know that inTana countryside, families breed mulberry silk worms, spin and weave raw silk .