My Favorite Museum in Paris and other Paris, France Off The Beaten Path Tips

Musée Jacquemart-Andre
158, Boulevard Haussmann
75008

Step back in time a hundred years and step into the home of Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, both avid art collectors. When Nélie died she left her home and art to Institut de France, specifying it should be left exactly as it as it was-- no furniture could be moved, no piece of art shifted-- and opened to the public as a museum.

These wishes were respected, so you get to "step back in time" and experience first-hand the late 19th century home of a wealthy Parisian couple.

The art is diverse, with heavy doses of Italian. Be sure to appreciate the remarkable "Christ at Emmaus" by Rembrandt Van Rijn; the magical interplay of dark and light will stun you.

Recorded tours are available in many languages. And you can have a marvelous light lunch in the museum restaurant, and then browse through the gift shop.

In addition to its regular permanent collection, the museum features special expositions; check the web site for information (the French site is more up to date than the English one).

On the first Sunday of each month from February to June, students from the Conservatoire National Supérieur de Paris, offer concerts in the museum. Two performances are given, one at 3:00 PM and one at 4:00. This is a wonderful opportunity to appreciate art for the ears while appreciating art for the eyes!

Leave a Comment

Phone: 01 45 62 11 59
Website: http://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/www.culturespaces.com/jandre/index.htm

Saint Augustin church is definitely off the beaten path-- no lines to get in, like Notre Dame. Built from 1860 to 1871, this church made use of structural iron to reach new heights. The architect, Victor Baltard, was responsible for the now-vanished Les Halles. Saint Augustin's dome is 50 meters high. If you visit the church, note the way the iron structure was incorporated into the design-- iron columns, iron angels.

This place is a bit worse for the wear; there is now a net across the inside of the dome to catch falling pieces of the structure. Parts of the exterior stone fa?ade are wasting away. There are pieces of stained glass missing here and there. I hope someone will recognize the treasure this is and start a restoration project.

I really like this church; it captures the industrial spirit of the age, and offers a quiet escape from the bustle of Paris.

46, bd. Malesherbes
75008 Paris
Metro Saint-Augustin (line 9)?not too far from the Grands Magasins on Blvd. Haussmann.
Open from 7h00 to 19h30 every day

Leave a Comment

Phone: 01 45 22 23 12

There are several statues of this French legend around Paris. This one is outside the church St. Augustin in the 8eme (see description above in the "Iron Age Church" tip), not far from the big department stores on Blvd. Haussmann.

The sky was a remarkable color this day; the picture was taken at noon. As you visit Paris, appreciate the sky, the clouds, the light... all the buildings and monuments interact with the sky and light in an ever-changing display.

Leave a Comment

While taking a walk during lunch, a few blocks from my office, I discovered the Musée Nissim de Camondo. I didn't know this place existed, but now I have to place it high on the list of my favorite Parisian museums.

The museum was once a private home belonging to the Camondo family. Count Moise Camondo donated his Parisian home to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs upon his death in 1935 as a memorial to his only son, Nissim, a pilot who was killed in aerial combat in 1917.

Moise was a collector of 18th Century decorative arts, and the museum is dazzling from several perspectives. There are objects woven to history-- tables and vases that belonged to Marie Antoinette, carpets that were in the palace at Versailles. But more interesting is the sense of the whole; an amazing ensemble, all as it was in 1935. The kitchen of the house is fascinating, with its huge stove and servant dining room.

The mansion originally belonged to Moise's parents. After he inherited it, Moise had the house rebuilt in 1912 to fit the style of his 18th century collections.

As you stroll through the rooms, viewing the incredible furniture, art, carpets, and architectural details, you really get a feel for how the wealthy lived. Be sure to appreciate the suggestive engravings outside Moise's bedroom. In one, a servant suggests to her mistress that rather than asking for an enema, she should find a husband!

Moise's cousin Isaac de Camondo also was an avid art collector. He donated his collection, which included a large collection of Impressionist works, to the Louvre in 1911. Many of his donations are now on display at the Musée d'Orsay.

Tragedy continued to haunt the Camando family. Moise's only other child, B?atrice, was killed at Auschwitz along with her husband, son, and daughter.

The museum is at 63, rue Monceau, in the 8th; it borders Parc Monceau. It is open Wednesday through Sunday from 10 am until 5:30 pm. Entrance is 6 € (reduced rate: 4.50 €).

Metro: Villiers or Monceau.

Leave a Comment

Phone: 01 53 89 06 50
Website: http://www.ucad.fr/ucadgb/nissim_eng.html

The chateau and gardens of Versailles are beyond description. There are assorted wonders everywhere. See my Versailles page for just a hint of what awaits you.

Leave a Comment

Website: http://www.chateauversailles.fr/

Miraculous and/or Macabre-- The Chapelle Notre Dame de la Médaille Miraculeuse (Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal)—140, rue du Bac 75007
Métro : Sevres Babylone

All her life, my grandmother wore a Miraculous Medal. By accident one day, I stumbled across the chapel in Paris where the medal originated. According to the story, a young novice, Catherine Laboure, had a series of divine visions, culminating with several visits from the blessed mother. These visions, and the medal which commemorates them, originated at this chapel in Paris.

Saint Catherine died in 1876. Her body was exhumed in 1933, and it was found to be perfectly preserved. It is currently on display in the chapel. Skeptics may feel that an artesian from Madame Tussaud’s has had a heavy hand in the preservation, but at any rate, pilgrims from around the world come to view her body and to pray. Another body is on display—that of Saint Louise de Marillac, who founded the Daughters of Charity in 1633 with Saint Vincent de Paul. Saint Vincent’s heart is also in the chapel.

Whatever your faith, this is a fascinating place!

http://membres.lycos.fr/gotier9/bac.html

Leave a Comment

The town of Provins is only about an hour's drive southeast from Paris, and well worth the trip. People define it as the most intact medieval town in France.

As you step into the walled town, time moves backwards hundreds of years. You can stroll down streets that appear exactly as they did centuries ago. (OK, they didn't have cars and satellite dishes centuries ago, but you catch my drift.)

I love to visit this town; it has a special atmosphere. There are a few nice shops, and a range of restaurants that serve interesting regional specialties; do try the rose-flavored crepes or ice cream (or both).

In the summer, there are shows demonstrating medieval weaponry, falconry, and the art of war. It is worth it to check one of these out. Several museums present the rich history of the town.

See more info on my Provins page.

Leave a Comment

Website: http://www.provins.net/anglais/

Musée et Théâtre Grévin

Since it opened in 1882, the Musée Grévin has documented history and popular culture through wax figures. The building is gorgeous. In 1900 a small theater was added, which to this day retains its original look.

For me this place is more than a wax museum. It gives me that strange, nostalgic, destabilizing feeling that I get at carnivals or circuses. Things seem special, exaggerated, and slightly seedy (although the museum was purchased and restored last year; I’m not sure it still has that special stirring seediness).

In the museum you will also find a mirror maze that first appeared at the 1900 Universal Exposition in Paris. When I was last there, a magic show was offered in the theater. Visit this place for a bit of history, waxen celebrities, a beautiful building, and an eerie feeling!

Open 10 AM to 7 PM (last entry at 6 PM)

10 Boulevard Montmartre, 9th Arrondissement-- Metro Grands Boulevards

The museum is quite close to some of the Passages, mentioned below.

Leave a Comment

Phone: 01 47 70 85 05
Website: http://www.grevin.com/english/index.htm

Les Passages-- back in Pennsylvania, we had the shopping experience of the King of Prussia Mall-- consumerism at its finest, and rather overwhelming. Here in Paris, the 'mall culture' is rather different. There are a series of delightful 'passages,' or malls, that will take your breath away. Visit Galerie Vivienne at 4, rue des Petits Champs et 6, rue Vivienne (in the 2ème arr.)--
Métro: Bourse, Pyramides, Palais-Royal. The photo gives you an idea of what to expect. This 'mall' opened in 1823, and what you see is basically what shoppers in 1823 experienced. Also visit Passage Jouffroy, and Passage des Panoramas... there are more than 20 to discover in Paris, each with its own personality and charm.
Below is a great web site with pictures of them all.

And another interesting site: http://www.metropoleparis.com/1998/322/322pano.html

Leave a Comment

Website: http://passagescouverts.free.fr/index.htm

At the end of the 18th century, as Paris began to expand, a problem developed: what to do with all the bodies that had been buried outside the city, now that the city was growing bigger. The solution: create a remarkable underground series of tunnels and chambers, and move the bodies from the cemeteries to these catacombs. From 1785 to 1850, approximately 6 million departed souls had their bones relocated. Today, they await visitors in what is an incredibly eerie tour below the city of light. The public visit takes you on a remarkable underground journey, but the public views only a small portion of this underground world.

l'ossuaire de Denfert-Rochereau
1, place Denfert-Rochereau, 75014 Paris

Métro: Denfert-Rochereau
RER: Denfert-Rochereau

Closed Mondays & holidays. Open 9 AM to 4 PM Tuesday-Sunday.

Be sure to check out the sculpture of the lion at Place Denfert Rochereau-- it is by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, most noted for his Liberty Enlightening the World in New York Harbor.

Leave a Comment

Phone: 01.43.22.47.63