"Lisbon...Lisbon...Lisbon" a Lisbon Travel Page by Fiel

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At the top of the Glória Funicular (1) are the gardens and belvedere of S. Pedro de Alcântara (2). Continue past them along Rua D. Pedro V until you come to the Príncipe Real Gardens (3), under which there is a water cistern, built in 1864 that can be visited on weekdays. Farther down the road are the museums of Natural History and Science (4) and the Botanical Gardens (5). The streets Miguel Pais and Monte do Carmo will take you to Rua Cecílio de Sousa, from which a flight of stairs (6), will take you back up to the Príncipe Real Gardens. Cross the gardens and go down Rua do Século, turning right at the bottom into Rua da Academia das Ciências, where the Portuguese Academy of Science and Geological Museum are located (7). Now take Rua de S. Marçal up to the romantic little square called Praça das Flores (8), where some excellent restaurants are located. Go down Rua de S. Bento, where there are a number of antique shops, and, on the left hand side, Espaço por Timor (9), the center created to support the rights of the people of Timor to independence and their courageous resistance to the Indonesian occupation. At the end of the street on the right is the São Bento Palace where the Portuguese Parliament sits (10). Continue in the same direction down Av. D. Carlos I to the fountain called the Chafariz Monumental da Esperança (11), by the architect Carlos Mardel, then take Rua do Poço dos Negros and Calçada do Combro up to the Church of Santa Catarina (12) and the magnificent belvedere of the same name (13). Ride the Bica funicular (14) down to Rua de S. Paulo, and to the square, Largo de São Paulo (15), built in 1849, with its church and fountain (16). In Travessa do Carvalho are the old baths known as the Banhos de São Paulo and farther ahead, going west through Praça D. Luis I (17), is the municipal market known as the Mercado Municipal de 24 de Julho (18), built in 1876. There is an important public transport interface with bus, metro, tram and ferry lines at Cais do Sodré (19) railway station, where the Cascais train line begins. Try some charcoal-grilled fish along the attractive Passeio Ribeirinho (riverside walk) (20), then climb Rua do Alecrim to Luis de Camões Square (21) and the Church of S. Roque (22). Go into the Bairro Alto quarter (23) and sample its renowned nightlife. You can hear genuine Fado and pass some enjoyable hours without any worry about personal safety.

Start by taking the Santa Justa Elevator (1) up to the ruins of the Carmo Convent (2), destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. This is the only remaining example of early gothic architecture in Lisbon. Walk up Rua da Trindade, where you can see the impressive façade of the Trindade Theatre (3), then continue down the road to visit the two churches, Igreja do Loreto (4) and Igreja da Encarnação (5). Go down Rua Garrett to the church called Igreja dos Mártires (6) , then go by Lisbon’s opera house, the São Carlos Theatre (7), and visit the Chiado Museum (8), in Rua Serpa Pinto. Go down the winding Calçada do Ferragial that takes you to the 17th cent. Corpo Santo Church (9) then turn left onto Rua do Arsenal, leading to Praça do Município (10), and the Lisbon Town Hall, built in 1774 and subsequently undergoing major modifications. Two blocks east lies one of Europe’s outstanding city squares, the 18th cent. Praça do Comércio (11). From the SE corner of the square, in front of the ferry terminal (12), where you can take a river tour, go east to the Campo das Cebolas, where the odd Casa dos Bicos (13) stands. Now go back along Rua da Alfândega, where you’ll find the ornate Manueline façade of the church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição (14). Stop off for lunch, or a ‘bica’, a little cup of aromatic black coffee, in the 200 year old Café Martinho d’Arcada, a favourite hang out of the poet Fernando Pessoa, then pass under the great neo-classical archway called Arco da Vitória (15), where the pedestrian mall, Rua Augusta (16) begins, and take in the cosmopolitan buzz of one of Lisbon’s main shopping hubs. At the top is Praça D. Pedro IV, the square known to Lisboners as Rossio. Turn right off the NE corner of the square to the church of S. Domingos (17), founded in 1241, and reconstructed after the 1755 earthquake. Turn back to where Portugal’s National Theatre, the neo-classical Teatro Nacional D. Maria II (18), built 1842, stands at the north end of Rossio. From here, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão takes you to the Palácio da Independência (19) and Praça dos Restauradores (20). On the opposite side of this square are the Palácio Foz (21), the neo-Manueline Rossio railway station, and the Glória Funicular (22), which takes you up to the Bairro Alto, with its narrow streets and bohemian nightlife. As an alternative to the funicular, go back down through Rossio (23) and walk up Rua do Carmo and Rua Garrett, the streets that make up the earth of Chiado. An old quarter dear to Lisboners, the Chiado (24) suffered a serious fire in 1988 and has now been reconstructed following a master plan drawn up by leading Portuguese architect, Álvaro Siza Vieira.