The best way to approach the old city is to walk from the New City along Jaffa Road. One moment you are amongst modern buildings, bars and shops. Suddenly the corner of a huge graystone wall is looming in front of you and there it is; the old city. From this point you have a choice; Carry on walking down Jaffa Road directly ahead of you, or turn left past New Gate to the larger Damascus Gate.
The first option takes you into a small square which also doubles as a taxi rank. Directly ahead is the narrow market cobbled street that leads through the heart of the city.
Damascus Gate is the main entrance to the Arab Quarter of Jerusalem. Walk down the wide steps, through the busy gateway to find yourself at the opposite end of the market street and the area where some of the cheapest hostels are to be found.
The best way to explore the Old City is simply to lose yourself in its deceptive streets. I loved to wander here, sometimes I was lost, other times I just tried to be. As long as you dress conservatively there is no reason to be worried.
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