"Oxkutzcab, Tekax and Chacmultun" Oxkutzcab by Gatopardo
Oxkutzcab Travel Guide: 5 reviews and 15 photos
We left around 2pm from Merida. Destination: Oxkutzcab
We read it's a well known place because of their fruit market. Also because of the
caves and the traditional town feeling. The trip lasts an hour and half,
passing by Muna, Ticul, Hacienda Tabi and other locations. We made it to
Oxkutzcab when it was dark, so we tried to find somewhere to sleep.. we visited
three different hotels, none with a camp ground, so we choose Hospedaje
Rosalinda, a family hostel. The double room with hot water and tv (no cable) was $140.00 Pesos, about $11 USD.
We found a nice plaza with small restaurants and hot dog stands.. We ate at a small
cafeteria, a place where you see mostly very old men drinking coffe and just watching time pass by. The cafeteria had green enchiladas, red enchiladas, torta de jamon, torta cubana and
sincronizadas... that's the menu everyday. So we ate red enchiladas. It was $45.00
pesos for both, about 3.5 USD, including beverages.
We explored downtown, saw the place, the people and went back to the hotel. The bed was
pretty hard so I had some trouble to sleep. The bathroom was tiny, I wont go in much detail here.
Sunday - we woke up early, we headed to the market, they were selling huge sandias (watermelon) and
all kind of juice. There were a great number of tricitaxis and the people were very well dressed for Sunday service at the local church.
We had an extra set of red enchiladas and decided to visit Tekax quickly before going back to Merida.
It was five (.35 US cents) pesos each trip. It took twenty minutes to get there. We arrived at the main
plaza and found that it was a very cute town with a population of 29,000 souls. It looked cleaner and
less crowded than Oxkutzcab. We found an internet cafe and tried to find information
about Tekax. We read about the caves nearby, an archeology site and an ecological preserve
where you can camp for the night.
We read we could hire Victoriano Duarte as a guide to see caves. So we decided
to find out how to meet with this guy.
We never found Victoriano, the people said he left to the city of Chetumal to work for a hotel,
we were told to meet with Ruben Novelo instead, the new representative from the municipal
tourism office - according to the locals. He lived a few blocks from the zocalo. We took a tricitaxi to
visit him, but we felt bad about the old man riding the bike because Saray is too
tall and too heavy for the trici, we paid him and let him go. It took just a few blocks to find him. We met Ruben and found out he was a very nice person. He
explained what to do, he said he felt surprised that our small group was composed by Veronica and myself.
He told us we could see a cave before going to Merida, and maybe visiting
Chacmultun.. he actually helped us to spend the night at the archaeology site... so we just started with the cave and see what might happen later.
He drove around the town and after a short walk we stopped next to a trail, there was some cattle at the distance, crossed at least two fences. We visited Oxpel-hal cenote (or tres bocas - three mouths),
a beautiful partially dry cave!!! I felt really happy to see caves again! There are
about 197 caves around Tekax only.
There is one more interesting formation with a vertical fall with around 100 meters (328 ft) down inside the cave
and he had all the equipment for a group of for a few. He looked confident and seemed to know enough technical information about the caves and their exploration, but we didn't have enough people or the time for it.
There was another cave a few kilometers... entering at 7 am..
and getting out at 7 pm.. camping outside..
We decided to visit the archaeology site after that. He dropt us at Chacmultun, after
passing the town of Kankab, it's 2 kilometers (up the hill) from the town to the site.
Chacmultun is on the top of a cerrito. So it has a pretty view. Not very touristy
so it was a nice discover. We met another guy there, his name was Reynaldo, the comisario of Chacmultun. He spoke few words with Ruben and returned to his town.
We left our bags with Reynaldo and left to Kankab for food. Kankab is on
secondary roads and has basic basic services, they had geese, ducks, a
few horses, turkeys and we saw two monkeys.
We found a young girl speaking mayan (she spoke more mayan than español). We
bought pollo asado, the only thing we could find. She gave us some of her dishes because we didn't have
anything to put our juicy pollo - the chicken was to go. The food was satisfaying and flavorless. We bought a few groceries for
our campground and returned to Chacmultun. We found there was a pool at the
entrance of the site, very unused, very forgotten... mmm.. they had bathrooms!
We used the only available toilet for us at the arch., site. After the refreshing moment and once we started walking again, a goose started following us and wanted to bite us!!
We finally made it to Chacmultun again and met with Reynaldo's son, it was Reynaldo's dinner time. We waited and sat down until he came back because the kid didn't want to give us our bags because he was told to wait for Reynaldo's to do that. We saw families walking nearby, it looked that the main trail to the site connected to another town a few miles down the road. I heard some people speaking in mayan.
When everyone at the site was gone, we set up our campground at the second or third level of a pyramid. That was something memorable! A visit to remember! We were carrying a yellow tent all this time. We noticed there were many rooms on the side of the pyramid, we noticed murals inside of one of the rooms and
some small anthropomorphic figurines on the friso.
We went for a walk during sunset, we had a couple flashlights. We found that there were two more big buildings at the end of a road, and more vegetation, pretty much a
jungle. The trails to other buildings were bad so we couldn't get in there, we
wanted to try but it was dark already. So we returned to our campground. It was scary to hear the people walking on the trail at night, it wasn't close to our tent, but it was so quiet that even the smallest noise sounded closer or louder than it was in reality.
There were moments of an absolute peace and silence, my friend Veronica started singing.
There was a big bird flying around, it had its nest in one of the trees close to
us. There was an owl somewhere too and some others smaller birds.
We watched the sky on the top of the pyramid, the sky was clear and stars were on sight, we could hear people singing, they were at a church, it was very late to be at church, maybe they worship at night because it was better than during the day, when it gets too hot.
I made a sketch of a wall of the pyramid, I ran out of film. That was bad news for new.
We woke up early, picked up everything and met with Reynaldo's little son for the last time. We started our walk to Kankab.
It was a two kilometer hike, we took the collectivo (it's a small minivan) to Tekax as we made it to the town,it was a very quick trip. It was funny how many times I hit my head inside the small minivan, the people were laughing because they had such a small body frame and I was too tall and too big.
We visited Tekax's downtown and ate in the market, we had few poc chuc tacos and orange juice. We left by taking the combi to Merida at 10.30 am...
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