KAMBERG and other Drakensberg, South Africa Things to Do Tips

Scattered across the nations of southern Africa one finds rock art sites left behind mainly by San hunter-gatherer peoples. Some of the better known accumulation of sites can be found along the base of the Drakensberg mountain range. The Drakensberg sites are not the oldest nor are they the most extensive, but they have been studied intensively and from these studies much of our interpretations for the pictographs have been developed.
The eland was the center of the hunter-gatherer people here in the Drakensberg - much like the buffalo was for the American natives people of the Great Plains or the salmon was for the peoples here found in the American Northwest. Life revolved around the eland herds and supernatural powers were attributed to them and to those shamans who could master those powers. While in a trance state - helped along by appropriate herbal concoctions - the shaman would transform themselves into the animal, shown clearly by some of the paintings of tehrianthropes - figures with both human and eland body parts drawn on one figure.
There are two rock centers devoted to explaining what the San people have left - one newer center at Didima near Cathedral Peak and the other is here at Kamberg. Separate guided tours at other Drakensberg sites include Main Caves at Giant's Castle; Battle Cave at Injusthi; and rock art found near the entrance to the Royal Natal National Park.

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Kamberg is in the southernmost extension of the central Drakensberg and technically it is not in the main Drakensberg range but in the Low Berg. To get here you take the Mooi River exit off the N3 motorway and head west following signs towards Giant's Castle. After some 36 kilometers you come to a 't' intersection where you turn north to go to Giant's Castle and south to go to Kamberg (and Highmoor). This is lonely country and you probably won't have a lot of company. You drive by the African Crane Sanctuary and go over a small pass. The next intersection as you head south is the road coming over from Rosetta to the east and west to the trout fishing of Highmoor (and the Cleopatra Mountain Guest Lodge, one of South Africa's most expensive establishments). A couple more kilometers and you come to the road that goes to Kamberg - there is a sign for those approaching from the south, but not for those coming from the north! If you drive past a little gas pump/store named 'Kamberg', then you have driven too far and need to backtrack a couple of kilometers. The road into Kamberg is a dirt one - not always bad considering the extensive potholes on the 'paved' roads you have been driving thus far. The drive did not seem overly harsh but somehow I managed to blow a tire going into the Park. There are three tour times with the last one scheduled for 12:30. Naturally it was 12:25 when the tire blew out. Replacing the tire with my spare, I got to the interpretive center at 13:00. Luckily for me, since I was the sole guest to the Park that day (a 'busy' day only sees some dozen or more people according to the guides) and Busi, my own private guide, agreed to take me up the hill to see the cave paintings.

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The path up is about 3.5 kilometers and gains a few hundred meters in elevation. You might want to carry some water though there is a stream at about the midway point where you can get a drink, as well. I was warned that the trek up and back would take four hours, but Busi took off at a fast pace. Sweating, I managed to stay up with her, trying to slow her down with a barrage of inane questions. I was somewhat relieved when she finally took off her coat just before we reached the midpoint stream. As we crossed, Busi warned me, "Now the way becomes steep!" Up we went. The cave at Game Pass Shelter is like most caves in the area, not a real cave but actually a large overhang worn away in the sandstone rock layers. You have a great view to the south as you climb and around the south corner from the cave you can see the pass that gives the cave its name. Here the hunters waited and passed the time, always searching for the eland herds that transversed the slopes of the Low Berg.

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Here in the overhang walls are the figures painted in ochre (eland blood may have been used as part of the binding agent) showing the life and roles of man and eland. Here you find a 'church' of the San set into the natural setting of the Berg. Silence is a matter of course. As we left to return, Busi got a call on her radio to find out how far from the caves she was. When she replied that we were already returning, the reply made her laugh, "They say we are too fast!" Hmm. The whole trip took us an hour and a half, but figure on a little longer normally. The guide is usually stationed up at the caves and visitors approach on the trail at their own pace. I don't normally run up trails except when being led by a rabbit. Luckily, at the Rock Art center below, there were cold drinks available - also a small curio/handicraft shop. The visit to Kamberg is an excellent chance to gain an important look into another chapter of human history in southern Africa. A DVD presentation is available at the center to give you a better explanation for the caves and figures painted in them. Cost for entrance into the Park is R20; the guides (the only way you can visit the caves) are another R25 and if you watch the DVD, that is another R25.

A final aside, on the 9 kilometers of dirt road back out of Kamberg, I blew the spare tire out just 50 meters short of the pavement - hard to do, I thought at 30-40 kph speeds, but obviously not impossible. That is, of course, food for another story.

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There are several points along the Drakensberg Escarpment where the adjective ‘magical’ could apply. Here, atop the rim of the Amphitheatre is one such place. Pictures do not do proper justice to the natural majesty. The rim is best seen at sunrise when, if you are lucky, the lower bowl is ensconced in a sea of clouds. Add the barking of a baboon hidden away somewhere in the cliffs below and the surreal scene becomes quickly World-class.

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Coming off the Amphitheatre Rim, Thukela Falls is the second or third highest falls in the World - only Angel and possibly Yosemite are higher. The falls is at its maximum during the summer rains when it can be visible as far away as the Amphitheatre Backpackers Hostel on highway N74 near Bergville. If it has not been raining, however, the falls is but a trickle - the ‘river’ starts but a short distance from the Escarpment cliffs. I met a Bavarian fellow in the Thukela Gorge below who was pressing ever higher because his guidebook told him to do so for a proper view of the waterfall. Up on the rim a couple of days later reconfirmed my earlier thoughts that the only way you are going to see this waterfall in dry conditions is from the top itself.

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The Sentinel stands at the right hand side of the Amphitheatre, dominating the views from approaches from that direction. At 3165 meters high, the Sentinel is the highest free-standing peak in the local vicinity - slightly over 100 meters higher than its bookend on the other end of the Amphitheatre, the Eastern Buttress. The main trail to the top of the Drakensberg Escarpment, circles around the upper base of the Sentinel, giving one up close views of the massif. The Sentinel, due to the ease of access, is very popular with climbers (‘popular’ is a relative term in South Africa. A ‘popular’ berg pass might see one party a week, for example) and all sorts of routes exist from the reasonable easy original route (graded ‘D’ by South Africans being the equivalent to upper 4th class to maybe 5.0 by US standards) to routes that quickly rise in difficulty level.

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The chain ladder dates back to 1930 when local pioneer, Otto Zunckel, installed the 200 rung ladders which take you to the top of the Escarpment. Two sets of ladders were originally in place covering some 30 meters of cliff. Two newer sets of ladders were added after sometime in order for faster climbers to bypass slower climbers or those who tend to freeze up on the cliff faces. The ladders give one a reasonably easy access to some of the best alpine terrain South Africa has to offer. ‘Easy’ is a word that applies as long as the wind is not howling.

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A few miles south of the Cathedral Peak Hotel is the Champagne Valley, the most developed entry point into the Drakensberg. On the way in you pass retirement communities - complete with the requisite golf courses - and all sorts of hotels and guesthouses and assorted tourist ‘stops’. The road is good until you pass all of the hotels and come into the Drakensberg Park itself where potholes rule the road. From the road’s end in the Monk’s Cowl section of the Park - accommodations and campground both available - several take off to various and sundry destinations. One of the easier upward destinations is the rock formation known as the Sphinx - only a 6 kilometer round trip. En route you pass the pretty Crystal Falls where you can wash some of the sweat off. The Sphinx is only another half kilometer farther from atop which the views back down the Champagne Valley are grand, but it is the views west towards Cathkin Peak that might draw you on further. Another steep one kilometer climb takes you to the top of the Little Berg at the Breakfast Stream. Cathkin Peak and the Sterkhorn beckon nearby.

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The Zulu name for Cathkin Peak is Mdedelelo or ‘the Bully’ which Cathkin resembles, a big huge free-standing peak rising above all else. The peak was first climbed in 1912 along a route that is still the only semi-easy way up (‘E’ climb by South African standard; 5.0 by US). Along with the three heads of the Sterkhorn on one side and the incisor-shaped Monk’s Cowl on the other, the Cathkin free-standing (so-called as the peaks stand separately off of the main Escarpment rim) range make up one of the more memorable set of peaks in the entire range. To hike up here, you take the same path that goes up to the Sphinx and continue to the top of the Little Berg and then push higher to meet the Contour Trail at the base of the Sterkhorn. From here, you can turn left and there is a small campsite as you cross a little creek. From here a climbers footpath winds upward across the lower grassy slopes of the Sterkhorn. It is possible to ascend the lower northern summit via this path, but the true summit is actually the south peak, a climb which is considerably more challenging.

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