It was very good. Driving around was ridiculously easy. Basically my route was airport to King's Way ->
Madaba -> Kerak (1 night) -> Dana Nature Reserve -> Petra (2 nights) -> Aqaba (1 night) -> Wadi Rum (1 night).
Everything was fine. No problems. Not ideal to be there during Ramadan (nothing to eat). Aqaba was the once place I could have missed (but at least made sure to get in the hammam and water pipe in while there). You were right about the stars in Wadi Rum. For whatever reason, I slept entirely alone in the desert in one of the fixed tents. It had the potential to be quite scary, but it wasn't, most likely because it was completely silent. I don't remember ever being in complete silence like that. Inexplicably, I paid more for that night in the desert than I did for a proper hotel room anywhere else.
Petra was spectacular of course, but I think I appreciate it more now that I've left than while I was there (too many tombs, kind of a downer). Without the car I would have only covered half the ground I did. Drove into east Amman on my last day. Traffic was horrendous so I got back out as soon as I could.
Worst thing was missing the Dead Sea, but I can't say I regret it. Overall I felt that was the one place of all of the above spots that was most valuable for the "I've been there, done that" aspect, which is not why I travel. Still would have liked to have seen it, but it would have had to been on the last day with the prospect of not getting a shower before the flight back.
The people were very nice. Except for the first time being asked in
Madaba, I told everyone I was American. No problems there. If anything they were surprised, as it seemed to me at least Israeli and French tourists are the norm. There were a couple times I could sense the older men weren't thrilled with me, but that was literally because I was walking around in a half-constructed mosque taking photos (and even then the guy was friendly once I smiled at him).
Food was great when I could get it. Most hotels provided crappy breakfasts as part of the room rate, and I was resigned to eating it because even by 6am is was already daylight and thus too late to get food outside. The hummus was the best thing I had. Generally I thought prices were on the high side and the things available for purchase not so impressive (China has ruined the consumer in me forever, I think). Nearly impossible to make a phone call overseas if you don't have a mobile phone.
Flight back was arduous. I don't know what I was thinking - overnight in Dubai, then second overnight in Hong Kong traveling to Shenzhen (via going into HK town, not airport to airport). Luggage got lost en route, but was delivered 5 days later to Shanghai, intact.
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