Prosperity visualised and other Görlitz, Germany Things to Do Tips

I alighted from the train and sought directions. Someone pointed me in the opposite way to that which most other passengers were headed. I was a little disappointed until I walked out from the subway at the station. I need not have been.
Straight away the place impressed. Immediately before me I could tell that this place had at least been prosperous once.
All the way to my accommodation were rows of baroque splendour, probably dating from the 19th century and clear testimony to the wealth that this town had attained.

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I booked in, sought directions and thus was pointed back through the Bahnhof and off towards the old town.
As previously stated I was very impressed by the baroque multi-storeyed buildings but when I exited the train station on the other side it was more interesting than splendid.
The first building of note I chanced across was the old hospital, a lovely bluestone affair with coloured stonework around the windows and doors.

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As I passed an intersection, suddenly this edifice came into view. It reeked history. It was history. The Imperial Keep (Kaisertrutz) was constructed in 1490 as part of the extension of the town's fortifications.
In places the walls are 4.5 metres thick on a 19 metre diameter.
Its name comes from the 30 Years War when the Swedes successfully defended the town against the Imperial troops.
Between May and October you can view part of Gorlitz's Museum of Culture and history inside these walls.

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Directions: On the western side of the old city

After I got over my initial excitement of the Imperial Keep and got closer, something else caught the corner of my eye.
It turned out to be the Reichenbacher Tower whose history, in all probability, extends back to the 12 hundreds although it was first mentioned in 1376. That part is the square bit at the bottom; the upper cylindrical portion dates from 1484 and the little baroque colourful piece on top from 1782.
Interestingly enough, it was occupied until 1904.
Twelve coats of arms adorn its exterior bearing testimony to the Upper Lasatian Six City League.
Inside there are interesting historical displays and when you ascend to the top of the stairs there are expansive views over the city.........so I'm informed. Of course, it almost goes without saying that it was closed when I was there!
It's open from May to October.
Chances are you will find it labelled Reichenbacher Turm. Turm is the term (couldn't resist that one) for tower around these parts and is in common usage.

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The night rolled in a little earlier than I had been used to at Fuessen and places west, and with it came the chill. It was no deterrent to me, I was in my usual curious travelling state and all else seems to be in second place.
I headed east down the Obermarkt towards City Hall

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Yes, of course, that name when pronounced in English has connoitations that we will not elaborate on here.
Especially when it has one of my all time favourite staircases. I came upon it the first night I was there, had no idea what it was all about but decided I liked it and got the tripod and camera out.
It turns out that this ascent, between the south wing of the town hall (Rathaus) and its tower, dates back nearly 500 years and leads to the oriel-like proclamation pulpit (hear ye, hear ye). 52 years later, in 1591, the statue of Justitia was added, though mysteriously without the usual blindfold.
Was justice dispensed without beholding the person in question? We shall never know.
Above the staircase you may gaze upon the coat of arms of Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary and Bohemia 1443-1490.
It is also recommended that you venture inside and see some of the beautiful rooms, such as the small hall with attractive wooden panels and ceiling, sculpture portals etc., also, if you're German especially, ask for a visit to the archives (16th century architecture) with interesting old documents on show.
Picture 3 shows the arcade which is part of the new building. It has only been there since 1902, a relative youngster in this town but nonetheless attractive for it.

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Of course, that's not all the Rathaus has to offer. Noticeable by day, a stand out at night, the clock tower is one of the jewels in the crown of Gorlitz.
The tower's construction dates from the 14th century with the middle addition in the first half of the 16th and the top from the 18th century.
The lower clock in pic 3 was made in 1584 and features a helmeted head that lowers its jaw at the passing of each minute.
1584 was an important year as Gorlitz humanist, tutor and mayor (how many jobs can you do in just one day!) Bartholomaus Scultetus introduced the divison of the clock into twelve parts.
Scultetus was also involved in the introduction of the Gregorian calendar and created the first map of Upper Lusatia. Sorry, I forgot to mention he was also a mathematician, scholar and filled several other important positions as well.....but, of course, that was in his spare time!
The hand of the upper clock takes one month to go around and displays the day, hour and phase of the moon.
In the upper third of the tower a lion gazes down and, at midday or upon invitation, is heard to growl and roar.

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Is it the way the light twists your daytime perceptions? Perhaps the thought of what might be hidden in the shadows? Maybe the different colours of the facades?
Whatever it is, night time offers something different not only to the photographer but also to the casual observer, especially if you're in the area of a town dating from mediaeval times. It's wonderful how Gorlitz has sought to preserve its history and no better place to see it than the Untermarkt and the street that runs off it to the river, Neisstrasse.

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For this tip I am eternally grateful to christine.j for her help in translating my information.
The brewery to the citizen's brew that used to be known as Müller's brewery, was one of the oldest breweries in all of Germany, almost as old as Görlitz itself.
Today it's known under the name of Bürgerstüble (citizens's chamber) and now it's a restaurant again run by the Schwarz family. How good that I was able to eat in such a place.
None of the town's laws has caused so much trouble and quarrel as the law about brewing and serving beer. Only when the cloth makers rioted in 1527, violently trying to get the right to brew for the guilds, was the quarrel was settled in favour of the old law and those who had had this right before. The brewery has had many name changes through the centuries.
Around 1496 Niclas Tylike owned the brewery.
From 1730 - 1760 the family Mitsching owned it, they had the brewery renovated and rebuilt and gave it a solid look. After the renovation by the family Laux the restaurant was changed back to its historic look, with the help of the state's brewery Görlitz.
The classical wooden panel is from the 1920s.
A further note from Christine:
"I can well believe that the quarrel about the brewing rights was a violent one.
A few years ago the European Union introduced new law about beer brewing, which
contradicted some of the old german laws from 15hundred something. Since European law outranks national law, there were lots of newspaper articles and angry letters! The new law allows many things to be added to the beer, while the old law just allows the basics, no additives , no artificial aroma etc."

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Address: Neissstrasse 27

The night closed in, the lights came on, I knew there was a river nearby. Perhaps I could get some reflection shots.
I came to a pedestrian bridge below the old market and saw the lights down the line of the river's edge. For me, it was romantic. I come from a land where you can travel for days and still be in the same country, a land where you have to cross oceans just to get somewhere else. For me, being able to walk to another country in a couple of minutes is a novelty, one I never quite get used to. Thus I tarried on the bridge for some time, thinking wonderful thoughts, imagining the history that flowed down the Neisse.
At the end of World War 2, the town was divided and, while the major part of Gorlitz remained in Germany, Poland annexed a large chunk. The dividing line was the river. Those from outside the European Union cannot cross the walking bridge.
Personally, I find the whole thing ludicrous. Come October 2007, anyone will be able to walk freely from side to side. Imagine, one day it's all passports, customs checks etc., the next, nothing. Only man could conjure up such a situation.

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