Cuenca Things to Do Tips by calcaf38

At first glance, the Old Cathedral doesn't look older than the "new" one across Parque Calderón. But it is: construction on this attractive church started in 1557, 450 years ago! Lovingly restored, the Old Cathedral occupies a prime spot on Parque Calderón. It is not used for religious services at this time.

On one of the photos, you will see a free hot rum distribution by the Old Cathedral. A band was playing too. The Parque Calderón was heavily patrolled by police that evening, allowing the "Peruvians and Colombians" to ply their trade a few blocks away (see Warnings and Dangers).

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The New Cathedral (de la Inmaculata Concepción), also on Parque Calderón, is a very intriguing edifice. Construction began in 1885, and an engineering error prevented the bell towers from reaching their intended height.

The first impression is rather stark, until you notice the two gorgeous white and blue domes, which contrast with the dominant brick construction.

The way the Cathedral is situated, you can see clearly the façade, or you can see the domes (from sideways). The whole structure constitutes an architectural tease, reminiscent of XVIII Century dresses which concealed almost everything, but showed off pushed-up women's breasts.

Inside, the New Cathedral is imposing, and very active.

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For extra photos of the Tomebamba river as it flows through Cuenca, see my travelogue. The Puente roto, or broken bridge, is at the Southeast edge of the historical district, near the Inca Ruins and the Central Bank Museum.

I don't know what caused the bridge to collapse, but, like all French-educated people, my first guess is that it happened during a dance, to punish youngsters who had gone out against their mother's orders. At the end of the chilling "Pont de Nantes" nursery rhyme, the mother asks: "what are the bells ringing for?"

La mère demande
Pourquoi donc tant sonner?

C'est pour Adèle
Et votre fils aîné

Voilà le sort
Des enfants obstinés!

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Directions: Can be reached from the footpath on the North bank

This might be the most pleasant spot in Cuenca: a tranquil plaza with little activity and little traffic. I noticed an attractive looking hotel nearby, the Posada del Angel.

The San Sebastián church is not the most spectacular, but its proportions are perfect, and it catches the afternoon light most effectively.

On the same Plaza, you will also find the Modern Art Museum, which I almost skipped, and would have been an utter fool to.

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Directions: On Bolivar Street, at the Western edge of the historical district

Situated on Plaza San Sebastián, this museum has a great collection of contemporary Ecuadorian art.

Some of the pieces are derivative, but not exploitatively so. Some others are just too funny, like the sculpture with the googly eyes.

Cuenca is a tiring place to visit, with lots of walking, traffic, emotions, and the altitude. The Museo is a perfect spot to catch your breath.

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Cuenca is a wonderful destination for market addicts. There is a large market within walking distance of the center, with some covered areas, and some al fresco vendors as well.

The market is well patrolled by police, and I did not feel unsafe (maybe naïvely so). The crowd is extremely dense, and you'll have to "steal" your photos.

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Address: Corner of Mariscal Lamar and Cueva Streets
Directions: If it is "market day," which is Thursday and Saturday, there will be activity stretching over one block. Be sure to catch everything.

The live small animal section is the most tightly packed area of the market. Women stand still, holding a huge hen under each arm, or a crate of little chicks. Blow up the photos to see a scary crone holding a poor cuy by the neck.

Ducklings, chicks and cuys (guinea pigs) are traded here. It is a noisy, crazy and hectic spot, on a large platform up a few steps from ground level.

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Address: Corner of Mariscal Lamar and Cueva Streets

This is a different market at the other end of town, organized somewhat like a shopping mall. It is as modern as a market can be, on two levels with escalators in between. If you wish to experience an Ecuadorian market, but in a gentler way, less crowded and less overwhelming to the senses, this might be the right one for you. It is still a riot of colors and joie de vivre.

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Address: Calle Larga near Torres

Cuenca is the world center for what is called, inaccurately, the "Panama Hat."

A few remaining old-fashioned factories offer tours, where you will be told about the famous Montecristi straw; how the straw is boiled;how women weave it and sell the half-finished hats to the manufacturer; how hats are graded in quality, then pressed and whitened.

It is all quite fascinating, in a fast-disappearing way. I imagine the visit is similar to that of a cigar factory in Cuba.

I visited the Barranco workshop (Rafael Paredes e Hijos Cia Ltda). There was no pressure to buy a hat at the end, but you should tip your guide. There is a lovely view of the river from the top of the workshop.

My visit was much more interesting from having read "The Panama Hat Trail" by Tom Miller beforehand.

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Directions: Calle Larga, between Padre Aguirre and Torres

This is a comprehensive museum, organized on a manageable scale, and which covers all the local civilizations up to the Incas. Unless you are interested in archeology, it might appear a bit dry, but it will help you understand that the Incas didn't just appear out of the blue - only to be defeated by the conquistadores in less than 100 years. Many civilizations preceded the Incas, and combined or fragmented to form or oppose the Inca empire.

The staff will lend you a booklet of explanations in your language.

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Address: Calle Larga 5-24 Open 9 to 6 Mon. thru Sat.