"Sailing the U.S. and British Virgin Islands" British Virgin Islands by BarbaraRT

Arlington, TX. Wednesday, June 18
We met Linda and Bob at the airport and left for San Juan. At San Juan we ate some lunch before we got on a small American Eagle prop plane to St. Thomas. It only took 18 minuets in the air. We got our bags and got a van/cab ($18) to Frenchtown Marina where we saw our boat— Arc of the C’s. There was a guy aboard who introduced himself as Norman, our captain or skipper for the first day. He was from Dallas and was very friendly. We took a few photos while the guys checked us in then we all went on board. We visited with Norman, and a girl came to go over the boat systems with the guys. We got our fins and snorkel stuff from bins on the dock, even thought we brought some of our own stuff too. We had to decide who took which cabin. We walked to a little outdoor courtyard place to eat then to the Pueblo Supermarket in Sub Base just as it got dark. The food cost $147 which we split. We took a cab back to the marina then spent a couple of hours stowing food and gear. When we finally got to bed about eleven we were tired and our little bed was pretty crowded.

Sailing

Thursday, June 19
Mike and I were very cramped on our single and a half bed that tapered even smaller at the feet so we didn’t sleep very well. When we got up about seven it was hard to get ready because of space and not knowing where stuff was. We had cereal, bananas, etc. for breakfast—everyone for himself. Norman came and we headed out motoring, then put up the sails. It was overcast and the water seemed rough. We heeled way over and Linda didn't like it. I was OK about it with Norman there. We went to Buck Island and tied up but no one wanted to snorkel in the rough water with no sunshine. We wanted to practice sailing more while we had the captain. When we left there we were sailing along and the rudder went out so there was no way to steer the boat. There were some tense moments as Norman hustled around checking things, then they got the emergency tiller set up. He tired to radio CYOA and couldn’t get them for a while. He finally got them by cell phone and we started back but before we got there, another CYOA boat pulled up and signaled us to wait for them. They came alongside and yelled that they needed us to call CYOA and tell them they were coming in and needed help. Two returning boats—was this a bad sign we wondered? A guy met us in a dinghy or dink as Norman called it, and he helped us catch a mooring ball. Norman took us to town in the dink to shop while they worked on the boat from one to three. To save time we ate at Pizza Hut ($14 each for the buffet) and made a fast trip through town. Norman met us at the seawall and took us back across the bay in the dinghy. We sailed some more and practiced dropping the anchor then went to Water Island where Norman keeps his boat, Butterfly. After a little tour through the bay we caught a ball. We planned our route and Linda made dinner — chicken, potatoes, fruit salad, veggies with ranch, cheese and boiled eggs. It was all very good and she also made brownies. We were all tired, sore and sunburned. Norman fixed our shower. After he left to go to his boat to sleep, and we cleaned up the galley, we sat on deck and enjoyed the night sky and great views of the St. Thomas lights. We were supposed to provide a cabin for the captain, so it was nice of him to stay on his boat. I took a fast shower that felt really good. Since the captain wasn’t there to use it, Mike decided to try the bed in the salon so we’d have more room and be cooler. I was disappointed in the lack of sunshine for pretty photos today and felt like it was a wasted day as far as seeing much of the islands, but we were thankful that Norman is such a good guy and pleasant captain, and that he was with us when the rudder broke. The plan is to have him tomorrow until about three and drop him off at Red Hook where he will catch a ferry. At bedtime the guys couldn’t get the air to stay on but fixed it later.

Jost Van Dyke Island in the British Virgin Islands

Friday, June 20

I got up at six and sat on deck. Mike was still asleep in the salon. We both slept better and cooler that way. I watched four cats on the old ratty green boat, and the two dogs on the boat right next to us, the CYOA couple. When everyone got up we ate cereal, etc. Norman came back in our dinghy and we finally headed out. We just sailed around so the guys could practice stuff. Norman said we’d all be fine and that the guys were doing great. We didn’t stop until about one. Linda and I started putting lunch stuff out but there was some mistake with the anchor so it got tangled and they had to work on it awhile. One loaf of bread ($3) was all moldy when we opened it. They finally came down and we all filled our plates and ate in the cockpit. After lunch I cleaned up the lunch stuff and Norman went over the charts and route. I was antsy to go. He had said we needed to be at Jost Van Dyke Island in the British Virgin Islands by four and that it would take two hours, and yet he seemed in no hurry to send us on. We were all tired before we ever started for Jost and it took longer than two hours. I was sore from sitting around on the boat for two days. When we started getting closer to Great Harbor we could see lots of boats. After we finally got the sail furled we had trouble with the anchor. After it was down Mike snorkeled to look and it was on a rock. When he pulled it up the rock came with it. He got the rock off and set it again. Bob went down to look and said it was good. The sun was below the mountain side of the island by then. Mike took Linda and I to shore but there were so many people at Foxy’s that we couldn’t find a place on the dinghy dock so we pulled it up on the beach. We checked the customs office where we have to clear into BVI, but they were closed for the night so he stayed with the dinghy while Linda and I walked around. The place was packed and noisy around Foxy’s, the big open air bar with food and live music. I wanted to stay longer and watch but we knew Mike was tired and hungry. We made our way back in the dark using flashlights and found our boat with our Texas flag flying. We ate supper— peanut better, crackers, cheese, left over chicken, brownies and fruit which tasted really good. We sat out awhile and looked at all of the boat lights then took showers and got ready for bed. We were all sunburned and really tired from sailing today. Because of Norman being with us all we’d done was sail both days. I hoped we'd get to snorkel, sightsee, shop and relax some he rest of the trip.

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• In a nutshell:The rest of the journal is on my Travelogues page