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Otok Brac Travel Guide: 67 reviews and 244 photos

Island of Stone, Sunshine and Sea


By Peter Simunovic

Brac pronounced Brach.

"....On this island man and stone have lived and fought each other from time immemorial. This island is my rock. Olives writhe and cypresses slumber in its cracks. Today fewer vineyards burst into leaf on its terraced slopes and, in the spring, fewer lively goats and unruly colts riotously race each other in its grassy vales.

My island is full of heaps of stone piled up through the centuries by hard working hands which picked out the stones from the barren clearings in order to wrest the thin layers of soil from the karst and plant in it the vine to yield dry "plavac” and the sweet "vugava” wines.

At the dawn of history such heaps of stone, hill forts and tumuli were silhouetted, on the ridges of Brac. Watering places were dug and paths cleared everywhere in the bare rock, and later settlements, churches and ports were built. The bowels of the island yielded the marble for the huge Palace of Diocletian and many other magnificent buildings throughout the world. The people of this island have always, struggled for their land, always dependent on the mercy of the skies: would they send rain to the parched terra rossa or fire to burn the fruits of the earth defiantly maturing in the stone?

This island evades, superficial judgment and hasty comparisons. It will conceal its true identity from the observer, and will bestow a smile rather than shed a tear as bitter as wormwood and as clear as grape-brandy.

Brac is at its most hospitable in summer when it opens up its heart and presents: its small towns, and villages and its coves. In summer, the population doubles on its shores, which stretch for more than a hundred miles. Sage, xeranthemum, heather, lavender and rosemary bushes bloom on its slopes and fill one's nostrils with their scents. A multitude of colors meet the gaze: ripe dog berries, bearberries, barberries, mallow, the swollen fruits of blackthorn, blackberry and mahaleb bushes. The deafening song of crickets chirping tirelessly on the knotty jasmines, junipers and spruces, has given the island its name, "island of crickets"...."

  • Last visit to Otok Brac: Sep 2005
  • Intro Updated May 9, 2016
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Reviews (20)

Comments (5)

  • BruceDunning's Profile Photo
    Dec 18, 2009 at 1:24 PM

    Thanks for the nice pictures and tips. We plan a trip there in spring and looking for things to see and do. This looks like a lot of old culture remains

  • MikeBird's Profile Photo
    Dec 31, 2008 at 9:58 AM

    Terrific, really helpful tips here helping me to plan our summer holiday. many thanks, Mike

  • TheWanderingCamel's Profile Photo
    Jul 6, 2007 at 1:10 AM

    Bol's the other half of our family connection with Croatia, our first visit last year was such a success we're going back again this summer. We're in for some culinary treats. leyle

  • matcrazy1's Profile Photo
    Jan 6, 2007 at 6:32 PM

    Very good tips and beautiful pictures. I like especially Bobovisca na moru! I didn't know that Winston Churchill's son was killed on Vidova Gora mountain, while helping local soldiers.

  • Callavetta's Profile Photo
    May 29, 2006 at 5:04 PM

    I saw your post about 2 weeks in September. Color me GREEN with envy. It sounds wonderful.


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